Differences in types of Tone Bars?

Devon Teran · From: Kansas City

I've been dealing with some wrist pain lately in my left wrist and some numbness caused by other issues. I wear a wrist brace at night to help.

I feel the pain some as I practice with my heavier tone bars (I just have some different sized cheap ones). This made me start to wonder about using a lighter bar and I came across a bunch of different materials.

Have you experimented with different tone bar materials? Are there lighter materials that sound great? What should I look into?

Gene Tani · From: Pac NW

I mostly use a Clinesmith polymer bar and a few powder coated bars by Michael Hillman, purchased thru the "for sale" forum here. While they aren't lighter, the surface seems to be easier to grip. Hendricks' ezzee~slide bar might be similar to the Clinesmith, and gets excellent reviews and Hillman is offering bullets with indented slots on the side for grip (inspired by Red Rajah)

Other materials: ceramic, glass w/weighted insert. See elderly.com, Rocky Mtn slides, stoneslides.com, you should be able to use Search function to find reviews of these on this forum

Incidentally, when anyone feels wrist pain/RSI, you kind of automatically assume it's computer use or long hours of music practice, but once when i eliminated those from the causes of wrist pain, I figured out it was how I was holding the car's steering wheel. Other factors are power/nonpowered tools, bike riding and if you sleep on your side
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Brett Lanier · From: Madison, TN

Zirconium bars are lighter than steel. Probably not a ton lighter but enough to easily notice. I could see how they would be easier on the wrist.

Maybe check out the TriboTone medium weight bar as well. Never held one but they look good. http://www.tribotone.com/bars.html

Thomas Sabatini · From: Ohio, USA

About 6 weeks ago, I picked up a PSG because of a bad case of trigger finger which made me put down 6 strings (7 months and running Confused

). When I used my 7/8" x 3 1/4" Dunlop bar, I immediately felt the onset of what you're describing.

I thought uh-oh.

So I picked up a super light (3 oz) aluminum bar from Wayne Johnson. I like it to practice and dig the larger 1" x 3.5" diameter/length, which seems to lessen hand/wrist strain. It's a breeze to play (though it could use a wider rear bevel) and you can't beat the price ($22).

The aluminum bar does sounds a bit thin, though. So I just sprung for a 15/16" x 3.5" Hughey style bar (7.5 oz). and *really* like it. It sounds better than the Dunlop, to my ears, and weighs less despite being considerably larger. This one's an investment that may or may not do it for you.

Were I you, I'd spring for the Aluminum bar, if only for practice.

http://www.king-cart.com/cgi-bin/cart.cgi?store=Innovativeguitars&product=Tone+Bars

http://www.waikiki-islanders.com/html/ezzee~slide%20bar.html

Brett Day · From: Pickens, SC

I now prefer polymer bars since I have cerebral palsy in my left hand. For pedal steel, I use an Ezzee Slide polymer bar and it's the best bar I've used! It doesn't cause my left hand to feel tired or make my left hand sweat, it stays straight on the steel and I'm now able to play all ten strings on my steel. Because of a polymer bar, playing pedal steel is more awesome for me!

Donny Hinson · From: Glen Burnie, Md. U.S.A.

You need to have a light touch with the bar when playing normally. But when you're playing single strings, moving very fast, or covering many strings, it's proper to tighten your grip slightly. But your grip should never be overbearing or forced. (Constantly squeezing tires out your muscles very quickly.) Most of the time, you're not squeezing the bar - you're guiding it.

And if someone can't knock the bar easily from your hand, you're probably gripping too tightly! Laughing

Larry Dering · From: Missouri, USA

In regards to the Wayne Johnson aluminum bar, I have one and its a quality made bar but extremely light. The tone is very similar to other bars with one condition, it takes more hand pressure which may cause wrist issues. I normally use an 8 ounce 15/16 bar. I even tried a custom made plastic bar that weighs nothing. Tone is ok but again it will tire the wrist adding downward pressure.

Fred Treece · From: California, USA

Is there a law that says you have to use the same bar all the time?

I have 7/8, 3/4, and 5/8 steel bars, a long 7/8 Eezzee slide, and a 7/8 ceramic bar. Sometimes my hand wears out from hanging on to the 7/8 steel, and I only use it for slower movement and longer sustain. Smaller bars for faster movement, less sustain. Ceramic bar for when I don’t really mind if it sounds and feels like a pedal ceramic guitar.

Brett Day · From: Pickens, SC

Larry Dering · From: Missouri, USA

I am also a poly bar fan. I have a Clinesmith, Eezzee slide and a Zirc bar. I personally feel the difference in temperature when handling the poly bars as they are warmer to the touch than stainless. That helps my arthritis hands.

Craig McClure · From: Jasper, N. Georgia, USA

Some years ago I saw & purchased what was described as an ATOMIC GLASS guitar slide. It's a thick walled citrine green glass tube with a closed curved bullet shaped end. I bought it as a slide to use with my resonator guitar - but found it was to big for the finger I was using - disappointing, but so cool I kept it. It also (owing to the type glass) lights up if exposed to black light.

Fast forward a couple of decades. Now I'm interested in lap steel playing - I suffer from waiting to long to have Carpal Tunnel corrected, & frequently drop things - especially the steel slides grasped between fingers. In addition to poor dexterity, left fingers are a bit stiff.
Then I remembered my Atomic Glass Slide. Its working OK for my level of playing - on my left THUMB - a good fit, & reinforced by my index & middle fingers. This may not be right - but I'm 77, & live "outside the box" doing the best I can

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Bobby D. Jones · From: West Virginia, USA

Small diameter 5/8", 3/4" and 7/8" bars, In large hands are held by only friction on the slant of the bars diameter.

A large diameter bar allows the bones in the finger to go below center of the bar diameter. This gives you the power of a Mechanical Wedge Advantage, Plus friction grip.

A larger bar does not have to weigh more. Mr. John Huey used a bar he designed which has a hole drilled in the center to cut weight of bar with larger diameter for easier gripping.
Some bar maker made bars with Mr. Huey's design.

When wood shedding or playing in a house band with a whole show of just singers, A large bar is a hands best friend.

Pat Chong · From: New Mexico, USA

I agree with Bobby's analysis. I seem to have carpal tunnel syndrome in both hands from working (not from playing music), and have used a large steel (1 inch). The c.t.s. has not gotten worse and supports what Bobby said, although it is a heavier bar (1" with brass insert).

I know one answer does not cover all, but it has helped me and may help some others, too. For those who are looking, I wish you 'well' on finding your comfortable grip/size/style of bar...

Pat

Donny Hinson · From: Glen Burnie, Md. U.S.A.

chuck lemasters · From: Jacksonburg, WV

I started with a 7/8 Dunlop bar, very light, maybe six ounces, used a George L 7/8 for years, 8-9 ounces. Tried a BJS Hughey bar, a regular 7/8 BJS, a twelve string 7/8 BJS, and I inherited several no name bars, including a solid 1 inch. I agree that the heavier bars may making sustaining a tone slightly easier, but lately I have been using the old Dunlop bar. It seems the light weight makes for quicker movement, and for me, a smoother vibrato. It requires an occasional polishing, as it is softer than the BJS and George L bars. There is no doubt the BJS bars are slicker, but I am not sure that is much of an advantage. I agree with Donny about difficulty in finding the position at the higher frets with the 15/16 bars.

Jeremy Threlfall · From: now in Western Australia

I keep coming back to my 7/8th stainless Dunlop Bar

I have a fancy BJS which is bigger and a couple of Hillman bars of different sizes, and an enormous John Pearce Big John

The light weight and smaller diameter (easier to get accurate intonation) has kept this as my go-to bar (it was the first bar I ever bought, by the way)
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Bobby D. Jones · From: West Virginia, USA

A friend gave me a 1" bar when I first started learning steel guitar. Never had any problem with up above the 12th fret. I always let my ear tell me where the bar should be.

I was at a Washington PA Steel guitar show and got to talk to Mr. Huey about playing in Huey Country (Above 12 Fret).
I told Mr Huey, Playing with a 1" bar, I can not see where the bar is. I just get close and let my ear say where the bar should be. He just grinned and said "Keep up the good work".

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