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Carlin Mueller · From: Cypress, Texas, USA

Desert Rose, SD10 Vintage Pro 4x5. Emmons setup, Es on the left, Franklin pedal on 4. Plays like a dream. Original Desert Rose case, leg & rod bag.

$2950. I will drive up to 2 hours from Houston to meet/deliver.
I will ship at buyer's expense.

Carlin Mueller · From: Cypress, Texas, USA

TTT, please.

Mike DiAlesandro · From: Kent, Ohio

Nice guitar Carlin

Are there any issues, bumps or bruises that a potential buyer should be aware of?

Carlin Mueller · From: Cypress, Texas, USA

Mike, thank you for the comment and question.

The picture above shows a close up of the same cosmetic crack that the previous seller disclosed on the Forum. In the weeks that I've had this guitar, I have learned a lot about it, made numerous repairs and adjustments, and will share the highlights.

First, I'll state clearly that I have NO issue with the previous seller or what they showed or disclosed. I cannot possibly speak to what he shipped, only to what I received, and handling damage could have potentially caused what I received...... At the price I paid, I knew the guitar was going to need some work.

Long story short, the guitar had awful, un-playable cabinet drop. I took the end plate off and discovered two things: 1) The visible crack in the top was into the top wood about 2" diagonally (but never through), and 2) the glue joint between the front, vertical maple panel and the top, horizontal maple panel had separated about 3/4" to 1" from the end. THIS gap was flexing with the force of pedals and levers, causing the excessive cabinet drop.

I was/am an acoustic guitar builder and I fixed both issues the same way I would fix loose braces on a fine acoustic: work Tightbond Glue in between the separated wood surfaces with feeler gauges, clamp it firmly, but not so firm as to squeeze all glue out, wait 2 hours, and done. I will share those pics later today.....

Here is what I will state for all.
The structural issues with this cabinet are repaired, working well, and truly cosmetic only, newest picture shown above.
I have adjusted every travel stop, and every rod travel including changer and bell crank positions as needed. Each pedal and lever functions as it should, and returns to pitch as it should when released, all per Peterson StroboPlus HD compensation MA9.

This guitar now plays and sounds as good as it looks! Happy to discuss in more detail with any seriously interested buyer.

Carlin

Carlin Mueller · From: Cypress, Texas, USA

I figured out how to add pics! Laughing

Carlin Mueller · From: Cypress, Texas, USA

Here are the "surgery" pictures of the cabinet repairs and some notes.

Above is the crack in the horizontal maple top plate and the glue joint failure between the vertical maple front plate and the horizontal maple top plate.
Note that this crack did not extend farther because the metal end cap is screwed into both maple vertical plates and the horizontal top plate twice. This good endcap design by Desert Rose limited the total crack length from whatever impact caused this damage, IMHO.

Above is where I start working Tightbond Glue into the top plate crack and the separated glue joint between the front and top plates, the serious structural problem. I start with a pallet knife and finish with finer and finer feeler gauges.

The photo above shows how you know you have the entire crack filled with glue: As you increase clamp pressure, it squeezes out along the entire length of the crack. The trick is not to over-tighten the clamp and squeeze all or too much of the glue out.

I hope this is transparent and helpful to anyone who may be interested in this guitar. Sorry if this is too detailed- I'm an engineer Shocked

!
I'm happy to answer any questions any potential buyer has.

Thanks for looking,
Carlin

Carlin Mueller · From: Cypress, Texas, USA

TTT, please.

memphislim · From: Austin, Texas

Two questions. Is that pic of the crack the before or after? If before, what is the after? Also, what does the cab drop measure now?

Carlin Mueller · From: Cypress, Texas, USA

Both pictures above with the end plate on are AFTER repair. I repaired the structural wood crack, but not the mica or finish which are still visible.

This evening or tomorrow, I'll take and post additional AFTER close-ups with the end plate off to better show the cabinet repairs and what cosmetic issues remain in the mica and finish.

Cabinet drop:
When A and B are engaged, 8th string E drops -10 cent, 4th string E drops -6 cent.
(By comparison, my Zum D10 with 2 metal necks: 8th string E drops -6 to -7 cent, 4th string E drops -4 cent. I wish I had another wooden neck SD10 to compare to.)

Thanks, Carlin

Carlin Mueller · From: Cypress, Texas, USA

Here are the close-ups after repairs to the maple top plate and the glue joint between the maple front plate to the maple top plate.

Here is a close up of the cosmetic crack still in the mica and finish.

I edited the previous post to show the cabinet drop.

Thank you, Carlin

Charley Bond · From: Inola, OK, USA

I had an MSA S12 once, about 30 years ago. It cracked on me under the strings & fret board plate. I built a new cabinet & refinished it in about a week. The burl wood top was pretty as could be found. I took all the gear & transferred it , one piece at a time, until the guitar was re-built.

When I sold it, the new owner loved it. It can be done & it's not too terribly difficult. It just won't be done by tomorrow...
_________________
Steel Guitar players are members of a Special Family

Carlin Mueller · From: Cypress, Texas, USA

Thanks Charley.

The wooden cabinet is truly the simplest component of a PSG in my opinion. I've played it for a few weeks after the repair and am convinced that this instrument has no cabinet problems, other than the cosmetics I've shown.

Eventually, someone close enough to meet and play it in person will gain the same confidence in this repair and instrument as I have Smile

Mike DiAlesandro · From: Kent, Ohio

Carlin Mueller · From: Cypress, Texas, USA

Mike,
The top is covered in mica, as well as the 1/2" edges of the top boards, front and back, above the purfling and abalone strips.
All of the top/front/back wood and mica surfaces are clear coated in whatever finish Desert Rose uses.

Carlin

memphislim · From: Austin, Texas

Carlin, I think you may be confusing Mica with clearcoat. Mica in the steel world is usually "Formica" (laminated composite material ). I don't see any Formica on this guitar.

Carlin Mueller · From: Cypress, Texas, USA

I am not confused.

The tops of the top maple wood panels of this guitar box are covered in Mica, or "Formica" if you prefer. The Mica is Cream colored.
The edges of the top maple wood panels of this guitar box are also covered in Mica or Formica. The Mica is cream colored.
All of the exposed wood and Mica surfaces have a clearcoat applied. The clearcoat is clear.

Carlin

Charley Bond · From: Inola, OK, USA

I do see a seam, could you be talking VENEER, in lieu of Formica...? I've never seen any maple formica... but I'm going away... Good Luck Carlin...
_________________
Steel Guitar players are members of a Special Family

Carlin Mueller · From: Cypress, Texas, USA

Charley,
Yes, they are formica veneers on the solid wood maple top plates and edges.

Carlin

J R Rose · From: Keota, Oklahoma, USA

Hello Carlin, J.R. here and I am an old carpenter, cabinet maker, handy man and repair person. You have done an excellent job on the repair. I have reworked dozen's of old fiddles, acoustic guitars, steel guitars, etc. I see that the guitar top
board has an edge that is covered with same colored mica. It looks to be about 3/4" wide. So when the top board cracked it crack the 3/4" piece as well. I think you can see that in your first picture. To me it looks like a maple trim piece, not mica but could be, you should know. I disagree with you about your clamp. I think you should clamp till all of glue comes out and then wipe clean with a light wet rag. It will make the crack harder to see. And the glue left will hold longer. I know you said you were an engineer but I am an old man with 50 plus years of this kind of work. But like I said you have done a good job an knew what direction to go. Good luck with your sale and if I was in need of a good guitar this would be it. J.R.
_________________
NOTHING..Sold it all. J.R. Rose

Carlin Mueller · From: Cypress, Texas, USA

Hi J.R.,
I really appreciate your kind comments! Thank you very much. I agree with you on clamping until the glue squeezes out and wiping the excess off. That's what I did. The picture was before I wiped off the excess. The point I was hoping to make (not very well, apparently) on clamping was not to over-tighten and squeeze out most of the glue that you hope to leave in the crack. Enough pressure, but not too much.

Thanks for the well wishes on the sale. Carlin

Mike DiAlesandro · From: Kent, Ohio

Not to beat a dead horse, but... I am just intrigued by this issue. For the life of me I can not see a seam between the top and the smaller 1/2 piece above the inlay on the front apron.

I remember this guitar, as I almost purchased it from the original owner in Florida. It had been sold 5 minutes before I called to a seller here on the Forum. It apparently was damaged in shipment when it was being sent to Ricky who then sold it to Carlin.

So anyway, I am not in anyway questioning Carlin's answer/description, I just can not see the seam on the mica and it perplexes me...

Thanks

Carlin Mueller · From: Cypress, Texas, USA

Here is a top down view of the seam between the horizontal and vertical mica strips, taken directly over the crack site.

I hope this horse is now dead enough to make wood-glue out of its hooves, be cremated, and have it's ashes spread in a peaceful pasture. Very Happy

Carlin

Carlin Mueller · From: Cypress, Texas, USA

Please close. I am going to keep it for now.

Many thanks to the Forum members that posted questions and comments on here, and to those who traded PMs, calls, and texts!
It has been a great learning experience, beyond just instrument repair and set-up.....

Thanks again,
Carlin Mueller

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