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Topic: Changing Pulls “That Is The Question “ |
Larry Ball
From:
Airdrie, Alberta, Canada
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Posted 4 Aug 2023 7:31 am |
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I bought a Mullen SD10 3/4 Emmons setup with E’s on the left. I then bought a Sho~Bud LDG 3/4 Emmons setup with E lowered on my RKL. I also just purchased a Show-Pro 4/5 Emmons setup with E lowered on RKL and the Franklin Pedal at the 0 position. Sorry for all the show and tell but I am thinking of making some changes because of the differences in the copedent’s. One thing for sure I don’t like the Franklin pedal at the 0 position as I can’t roll my ankle enough to get the A pedal /LKR lever combination easy. Plus it takes a bit of time making the mental adjustment (Old Age) with the E lower on different levers. So I am trying to rationalize the changes before I do anything. I don’t use the Franklin enough so I thought putting it at the 4th position would get it out of the way. I realize all the pedals would have to be changed.
I plan on keeping these Steel’s so should I make changes “That is the Question “
Thoughts from the “Experts” please…
Larry
_________________
Sho~Bud SD10 LDG, Show-Pro SD10 LDG, Peavey Nashville 112, Boss Katana 100 MK11, Telonic's F100 Multi-Taper Super Pro V/P, Wayne Brown “Custom Designed Amp” |
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Jon Light
From:
Saugerties, NY
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Posted 4 Aug 2023 8:15 am
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It's mighty thin line between "get used to it the way that it is" and "make that thing fit you, not the other way around."
I recent moved all three pedals on a push pull over one position (and added a zero pedal). Standard pedal positions were too radically far over vs. my personal set up on all my guitars. And I converted the levers from Emmons to Sho-Bud. So you can see which way I lean on the subject.
Running clients' guitars thru a shake-down after doing work on them gives me a taste of playing different ergonomic and copedent setups and shows me that if I had to to save my life, I could adjust....somewhat. But not by choice. |
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Tucker Jackson
From:
Portland, Oregon, USA
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Posted 4 Aug 2023 8:23 am
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Larry, sounds like you're on it. Having the same copedent on your guitars is a good goal -- and moving your ABC pedal changes over one slot to the left seems necessary if that's what it takes to comfortably hit the A+F position.
The only question is: do you want to leave the new Pedal 4 as the Franklin change? If you don't use it much, there may be other options, like moving whatever change you now have on the Sho-Pro's vertical lever (sometimes hard to use) to P4. |
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Dave Mudgett
From:
Central Pennsylvania and Gallatin, Tennessee
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Posted 4 Aug 2023 9:35 am
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| Quote: |
| One thing for sure I don’t like the Franklin pedal at the 0 position as I can’t roll my ankle enough to get the A pedal /LKR lever combination easy. |
Are you saying here that your F-lever (E=>F) change is on LKR, and not LKL? Or is that a typo and it's on LKL? Or is it some other change that you want to use LKR with the A pedal? I would NEVER put E=>F on LKR for an Emmons setup. I realize Lloyd Green does - https://b0b.com/wp/copedents/lloyd-greens-copedent/ - but I could never make that work for me on a change I use so much. Beyond that, it strikes me that moving the the A pedal to the left would make that A+LKR move even harder.
Personally, I tend to want Emmons ABC pedals on slots 2, 3, and 4 precisely because LKL is generally too far to the right for me to comfortably make the A+F move, and thus most of my guitars are set up that way. But of course, for me it depends on where LKL is located. I have one guitar where it's pretty far to the left, and thus the first position works fine for the A pedal, and that's where it is on that guitar.
As far as the E-lever (E=>Eb) goes, that is a matter of personal choice, but I am firmly in the E-lever on RKL camp. You should read this thread for one-stop shopping on the subject - https://steelguitarforum.com/Forum5/HTML/007769.html - read the whole thread, and pay particular attention to the interchange between Buddy and Paul. But there are lots and lots more recent discussions about that, including this very recent one - https://bb.steelguitarforum.com/viewtopic.php?p=3142709. Since you have guitars set up both ways, I would strongly recommend you play with both for a while and see which one works better for you.
I also strongly recommend that you think all this stuff through very carefully before taking tools to your steels. My engineer's motto - measure THRICE (not twice), cut once. Maybe measure 4-5 times, LOL. Call me conservative.
If you don't think you'll use the Franklin change, there are lots of other possibilities. I drop string 6 G# to F# on LKR, so for me, the Franklin change is redundant if I have some other method of lowering B to A - I guess some lower both 5 and 10 like Paul does, and some just lower 5.
With any of this stuff, only you can decide what's right for you. I also am more than a little concerned about all aspects of ergonomics - driven to that by the fact that I'm tall and almost all pedal steels are significnatly too low for me and I have to raise them. Typically 2". When I did that, I found that some of my other ergonomic issues faded some. But of course, personal ergonomics can vary very widely for players of different heights, leg lengths, arm lengths, and so on. But I think it pays to pay attention to all aspects of ergonomics. You play the whole machine. |
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Larry Ball
From:
Airdrie, Alberta, Canada
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Posted 4 Aug 2023 11:14 am
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Thx.. Dave.. very observant. Yes it was a typo.. My E to F is on my LKL. On my LKV I have the change G# to B which I know is unusual (I think Paul Franklin had it at one time) but I am coming up with some combinations so I think I will leave it there. I may consider putting the B/Bb or some other change on the 4th pedal. I had the B/Bb on the Vertical before on a steel I sold and never really used it much as I found a bar slant just as effective. I think alot of my problem stems from learning on the Mullen then buying these other steels later on with the different changes. As I am in my “Golden Years” adjustments come hard to make and remember. Thx for the links I will read them..
_________________
Sho~Bud SD10 LDG, Show-Pro SD10 LDG, Peavey Nashville 112, Boss Katana 100 MK11, Telonic's F100 Multi-Taper Super Pro V/P, Wayne Brown “Custom Designed Amp” |
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Bobby D. Jones
From:
West Virginia, USA
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Posted 4 Aug 2023 8:06 pm
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If you are going to pick 1 guitar to be your serious play guitar. And the other guitars are just hanging out, In the music room, At your house. You may not need to change the Pedals and Knee Levers.
If you are wanting to rotate playing the guitars, They would need to be set up the same. Many moves on a steel guitar are from Neuro Memory (aka. Mussel Memory). |
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Larry Ball
From:
Airdrie, Alberta, Canada
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Posted 5 Aug 2023 7:33 am
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Thx.. Bobby
That’s the conclusion I am leaning towards.
Thank you Gentlemen for your responses,
Larry
_________________
Sho~Bud SD10 LDG, Show-Pro SD10 LDG, Peavey Nashville 112, Boss Katana 100 MK11, Telonic's F100 Multi-Taper Super Pro V/P, Wayne Brown “Custom Designed Amp” |
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