Maintenance quiestions.

Jerry Dragon · From: Gate City Va.

I have never change all strings at once which I am about to do. Is there a "procedure"? Remove all and replace, one at a time, start in the middle and work out, top to bottom, bottom to top? That sort of thing. I have a digital micrometer and will check all string diameters.
Can I use 3 in 1 lightweight motor oil for lube? (Sewing machine oil)
Thanx all.
J.D.
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A FATE WORSE THAN LIFE

Roger Rettig · From: Naples, FL

Sewing machine oil is fine.

As for the 'procedure', when I change all twenty strings, I first remove them all (from low C6 up to E9) and clean everything up while I have access.

Restringing:

I cut the strings about 1.5" longer than the distance from changer to key-head (much less with the heavy-gauge C6 strings: 9 and 10); before cutting, I put a right-angle bend at the point I'm going to cut, then snip them 1/4" beyond that. That 90-degree bend makes locating the end in the tuning-head much easier.

My choice is to begin with the 1st string on E9, get it roughly to pitch, then proceed across the guitar until I fit the 10th string on C6. I do this so that I'm not leaning on the fresh new strings as I work.

I already have tuned every string to a ball-park pitch. Now I fine-tune, pulling on them (gently) to take up any slack in the windings around the key-heads.

Doubtless, there'll be as many methods as there are contributors on here, but this way always made sense to me.

I love it when it's done but how I hate doing it!!
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Roger Rettig: Emmons D10, Quilter TT-12 & TT-15, B-bender Teles and Martins - and, at last, a Gibson Super 400!
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Per Berner · From: Skovde, Sweden

Totally agree with Roger, only I pull the strings quite vigorously to make sure they are fully stretched before fine-tuning.

Roger Rettig · From: Naples, FL

Per:

I'd like to pull them vigorously, but I live in constant fear of putting too much strain on that tiny pin to which the strings attach on an Emmons changer. Sad

I've never broken one yet but, if I ever did, I'd be up the creek, as we say in the Old Country.
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Roger Rettig: Emmons D10, Quilter TT-12 & TT-15, B-bender Teles and Martins - and, at last, a Gibson Super 400!
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Jon Light · From: Saugerties, NY

My process is:
-- all strings off
-- clean everything in the keyhead
-- check all tuner nuts and tighten if necessary
-- check roller nuts and feel for any resistance or binding. Oil as necessary. If there is friction I'll gently pry the roller axle off and sand or steel wool any corrosion on the axle
-- restring the outer strings first (1 & 10) and work inward. The only reason -- easier access than working from middle-out.

John De Maille · From: On a Mountain in Upstate Halcottsville, N.Y.

At least once a year I remove all the strings and clean well and lube everything up lightly.
However, when I do change my strings, intermttingly as I do, I do it one at a time. I start with the first and work my way back. I cut them about 1 1/2 " past the post and after tuning them close I pull up on them gently to set them in better. It works well for me doing it that way. Others, I'm sure, have a different approach.

Jerry Dragon · From: Gate City Va.

Thanx all.
Can I use 3 in 1 light machine oil as a lube?
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A FATE WORSE THAN LIFE

Donny Hinson · From: Glen Burnie, Md. U.S.A.

J D Sauser · From: Wellington, Florida

Having had antique French steel string Jazz (“Django Reinhardt”/Gypsy Swing”) guitars from the 1930’s up which are delicate and inherrently of capricious tuning bevavior, I have come to the conclusion that it makes no sense to take all strings off and only then re-string. It over relaxes the guitar. It’s like “like reverse stress” and makes re-tuning unnecessarily difficult. There is no advantage to remving all and only then re-stringing, except for easier access to the fretboard for cleaning purposes maybe.

I rather immediately replace each string as I remove them one after the other.
Tune each right up #1/2 half step and tune to pitch across all strings when all are on. Dunne!

I still hate re-stringing and find myself fantasizing regularly with the idea of keeping a “stringing valet”… SHE could be real pretty too 😇
But my li’l wife wants to hear none of it.

… JD.
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Was it JFK who said: Ask Not What TAB Can Do For You - Rather Ask Yourself "What Would B.B. King Do?"

A Little Mental Health Warning:

Tablature KILLS SKILLS.
The uses of Tablature is addictive and has been linked to reduced musical fertility.
Those who produce Tablature did never use it.

I say it humorously, but I mean it.

Samuel Phillippe · From: Douglas Michigan, USA

No matter what style guitar or other owned string instrument, I remove all the strings clean and replace.
Never had a problem structurely or tuning wise and I have been doing it this way since my first in 1953.
I own strat,telli, gretsch electric, gibson, martin accoustic, a six and eight string lap steel, pedal steel and homemade guitars....banjo, mandolin, ukelele none have ever been a problem changing strings the way I do.

Sam

Jerry Overstreet · From: Louisville Ky

If I'm doing a D10, I like to go outside neck first remove, restring and bring tuning close....then do the inside neck. Start with the furthest string out and work toward me.

Like many of you, I take this opportunity to clean and lube.

I use Gunk Super Oil in a needle oiler, may be called Liquid Wrench now. This is what Charlie Stepp of Derby steel recommended.

I like this maintenance section from the Mullen company.
https://mullenguitars.com/guitar-tips/

Roger Rettig · From: Naples, FL

Outside neck first - that's what I do.

I think the argument for the instrument's structural integrity, while it's appropriate for old, hand-made instruments, is hardly applicable to pedal steels. They're inherently strong.

I would not casually pull the strings off my 1940's Martins; I'd proceed far more carefully. Telecasters and steels? No problem.
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Roger Rettig: Emmons D10, Quilter TT-12 & TT-15, B-bender Teles and Martins - and, at last, a Gibson Super 400!
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Roger Crawford · From: Griffin, GA USA

As all have said about removing all strings and cleaning. I replace strings 1-8, then 10 and 9. Gives more room to get number 10 on the tuner.

Greg Cutshaw · From: Corry, PA, USA

M2 cents on lubricating a guitar:

https://www.gregcutshaw.com/Lubricate/Lubricate.html

Larry Hobson · From: Valley Grande (Selma) Al USA

I suppose much has been discussed in the past about oil type . Speaking from experience it is wise to use a proper oil , there are many I suppose that are good.But, it has been my experience that any lubricant that may have any vegetable oil mixed in will gum up later on. Like rubbing your hand across the table in a greasy spoon cafe , a gummy surface. I'm no chemist,but have pulled many service calls to clean gummy dried residue from equipment after using improper oil. This has been my experience. It only shows up after a little time. Not to question others opinion, only to express my experience. Good luck.

Bob Hoffnar · From: Austin, Tx

I take all my strings off then clean the guitar a bit like everybody else. The only thing I don’t do is pull on my strings. That puts an uneven pressure on the string. I just tune them up to pitch , work the pedals then tune them again. Then let the steel sit overnight. When I retune in the morning everything is stable. BTW: I only tune the strings open. I don’t mess with the end plate until the strings are settled in.
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Bob

Jerry Dragon · From: Gate City Va.

I have to take the time to read through all of these. I didn't expect that much of a response and I thank you all. She needs to be cleaned. This isn't one of those smoke free studios lol. I have owned her probably 8 yeara?
It has been set up that long but only played recently for any amounts of time. Strings only replaced when broken. So, she is pretty dirty and in need of lube. So, I will take all strings off at once and clean her up. I am not sure where to oil her in the changer, haven't looked into that yet. I suppose all pivot points underneath should get a drop or two.
Any suggestions on what to use to clean her up? One other thing. Whoever strung this last did not get some of the strings over the center of the saddles and the spacing of the strings is not consistent. When I restring her that should solve that problem. There is no indent in the saddles to center the strings.
Thanx again.
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A FATE WORSE THAN LIFE

Lee Baucum · From: McAllen, Texas (Extreme South) The Final Frontier

Bob Shilling · From: Berkeley, CA, USA

I take them all off and do some cleaning and maintenance. I reinstall 1 through 5 and then 10 through 6. My choice of oil is 3-in-1. Here's a good YouTube video for the cleaning and maintenance you can do with the strings off:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zjyQ43qs3GU&list=WL&index=5
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Bob Shilling, Berkeley, CA--MSA S10, "Classic"

Robert W Wilson · From: Palisade, Western Colorado

That is a good video. Didn’t mention deep cleaning (flushing) the changer before lubing? Perhaps once every 3 lubes and I would use naphtha or maybe electrical contact cleaner. Good or bad idea?

Samuel Phillippe · From: Douglas Michigan, USA

[quote="Robert W Wilson" Perhaps once every 3 lubes and I would use naphtha or maybe electrical contact cleaner. Good or bad idea?[/quote]

In my opinion a good idea, maybe because that's what I also do.

Sam

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