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Author Topic:  Pedal too Sensitive
Jerry Overstreet


From:
Louisville Ky
Post  Posted 9 Sep 2022 2:32 pm    
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I'm having brain freezes lately....I'm playing a buddy's D10 Carter that has a couple pedals that are too sensitive. By that I mean too little slack so that it engages the change at the slightest touch.

I know I need to adjust the travel at the pedal stop, then re-tune the pedal, but I can't recall which way to go

It's basically standard Emmons set up....I have the tuning/rodding chart and all the rods are in the suggested locations so I don't think that's the issue.

I believe someone has tried to adjust a lot of stuff on this guitar without the proper knowledge before my friend acquired it.

Also, pedal 1, which raises 5&10 ++ seems unusually stiff.

I've been doing setups and changes on pedal steels for years, but I've sorta run into a snag here so a little help is appreciated. Thx.
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Jon Light


From:
Saugerties, NY
Post  Posted 9 Sep 2022 3:24 pm    
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You want to screw the pedal stop set screw into its hole to increase the pedal travel, then back off the nylon tuner. This will buy you some pedal travel before the pull engages. Unless gravity pulls the pedal down and takes up all the slack.
Alternately, you can change rod leverage by moving to a bellcrank slot further away from the cross shaft (and then backing off the nylon tuner). This will result in more slack and a stiffer pull which may/may not assist in the issue of the pull being over-sensitive.
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Jerry Overstreet


From:
Louisville Ky
Post  Posted 9 Sep 2022 4:04 pm    
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Ok, this is where I'm going off the rail. See the stop screws on the pedal stop bar. Screwing these down will limit the travel won't it? Sorry, should have posted a pic first.

I don't normally have this confusion, just haven't been feeling well, maybe that's got me lagging.
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Jon Light


From:
Saugerties, NY
Post  Posted 9 Sep 2022 4:19 pm    
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You are absolutely right. I haven't looked at a Carter in a long time. Back off the set screw. But I don't recall if the Carter has pedal return springs on the pedals or cross shafts. If gravity pulls the pedals down and draws the nylon tuners into contact with the changer finger, you could still have the sensitivity issue, even if there is slack in the system. I just don't recall the details of the Carter pull train.
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Jerry Overstreet


From:
Louisville Ky
Post  Posted 9 Sep 2022 4:28 pm    
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Thanks for putting that clearly in my mind Jon. I think I will get it straightened out now.

I know, there are differences in the mechanics of many steel guitars. No, Carter doesn't have return springs. I only have this sensitivity on a couple of pedals, so I don't believe it's gravity related.

Thanks again.
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Gil James

 

From:
Louisiana, USA
Post  Posted 9 Sep 2022 5:40 pm    
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Jerry, I had the same problem on a carter s10 that I acquired recently. B pedal was super sensitive, I couldn't brush it without it activating. I was fixing to start adjusting the screws,but for some reason looked in the manual and noticed it called for a plain 6th string. Sure enough there was a wound 6th on there. Changed it, and normal pedal action! I wouldn't have thought it made that kind of difference, but it did.

Last edited by Gil James on 9 Sep 2022 5:55 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Bobby Boggs

 

From:
Upstate SC.
Post  Posted 9 Sep 2022 5:53 pm    
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If the pedal travel is factory specks. Carter would advise going a 1/2 or a full notch higher on the bellcranks. But different strokes for different folks. I've always been a cowboy and set my personal guitars to suit me. To me. my guitars always played better than factor specks. Others my might disagree. I like short but soft pedals. So it takes a bit of tweaking for most brands.
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Jerry Overstreet


From:
Louisville Ky
Post  Posted 9 Sep 2022 6:03 pm    
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Thanks Gil and Bobby. No, I use a plain 6th too. Yes Bobby, I generally tweak mine as well it's just that I got out of sync and wanted to get back to square one first so I can do that. Had a little gray matter stumble plus I haven't been playing or tinkering for a long time.

I think I got 'er on the mend now. Thanks everybody. Much appreciated.
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Jim Palenscar

 

From:
Oceanside, Calif, USA
Post  Posted 10 Sep 2022 7:10 am    
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It has been my experience that most of what you may be experiencing is that one string is starting b4 the other when being engaged. If they both start at the same time it will feel mo' betta'.
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Jerry Overstreet


From:
Louisville Ky
Post  Posted 10 Sep 2022 8:17 am    
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Thanks for that tip Jim. I'll check that too. That Fix It section on your site is something I had not noticed before. Lots of good info there for adjusting and timing changes etc.

That's a good reference along with Jon's sticky.
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Ron Pruter

 

From:
Arizona, USA
Post  Posted 11 Sep 2022 1:29 pm    
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Jerry, it is easy to ad a little pedal return spring. I personally love no gap. In other words, instant contact. That's why I'm known as 'Lightning Ron'.😅 NOT!!
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Emmons SKH Le Grande, '73 Fender P/J bass, Tick tack bass, Regal high strung, USA Nashville 112.
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Jerry Overstreet


From:
Louisville Ky
Post  Posted 11 Sep 2022 4:32 pm    
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I appreciate the tip Ron. I'm open to all ideas.
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Ron Pruter

 

From:
Arizona, USA
Post  Posted 12 Sep 2022 8:43 am    
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Of course Jerry, I meant a pedal lift spring. Usually a skinny little spring, just strong enough to counter the weight of the pedal. One end connected to a bell crank on the cross shaft of the pedal,and the other end to a screw you screwed into the wood deck.🤔
_________________
Emmons SKH Le Grande, '73 Fender P/J bass, Tick tack bass, Regal high strung, USA Nashville 112.
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Eric Watts

 

From:
Indiana, USA
Post  Posted 15 Sep 2022 7:39 am    
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Jerry, I am not in Louisville much these days, But can easily come by and help with a set up sometime if You like.
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Jerry Overstreet


From:
Louisville Ky
Post  Posted 15 Sep 2022 9:00 am    
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Thanks for the offer Eric. Maybe. We'll see how it goes. JO.
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Dan Robinson


From:
Colorado, USA
Post  Posted 18 Sep 2022 7:58 pm    
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Jim Palenscar wrote:
It has been my experience that most of what you may be experiencing is that one string is starting b4 the other when being engaged. If they both start at the same time it will feel mo' betta'.

This was the issue with the A-pedal on my Carter (2008 SD-10, 4-raise/2-lower changer). I followed Pali's advice to check the timing, and sure 'nuff, one pull was beginning before the other, hence less resistance to starting the pull with even the slightest touch on the pedal.

The Carter has none of the springs that Jon Light asked about. Gravity takes up slack in the pull train (at least for foot pedals), with resistance coming only from string(s).

By moving pull rods to different bell cranks and finger holes I was able to get pulls to begin, and end together. It took some time, and moving those dog-bones around in the bell-cranks is a PITA. But it made a dramatic difference in the playability of the guitar.
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Paul Mozen


From:
Fl, USA
Post  Posted 16 Oct 2023 7:59 am     pedal stop
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Well, I didn't break the set screw I broke the bit. No one here has mentioned what size torx bit I need to get. What size is it? Thanks
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Jerry Overstreet


From:
Louisville Ky
Post  Posted 16 Oct 2023 10:07 am    
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I don't find any connection to this thread with this post.

IIRC, you were referring to Carter guitars earlier. It that's the case and you're asking about the star/torq bit that fits the bell cranks attaching screws, it is a size T10.
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