Pedal too Sensitive

Jerry Overstreet · From: Louisville Ky

I'm having brain freezes lately....I'm playing a buddy's D10 Carter that has a couple pedals that are too sensitive. By that I mean too little slack so that it engages the change at the slightest touch.

I know I need to adjust the travel at the pedal stop, then re-tune the pedal, but I can't recall which way to go

It's basically standard Emmons set up....I have the tuning/rodding chart and all the rods are in the suggested locations so I don't think that's the issue.

I believe someone has tried to adjust a lot of stuff on this guitar without the proper knowledge before my friend acquired it.

Also, pedal 1, which raises 5&10 ++ seems unusually stiff.

I've been doing setups and changes on pedal steels for years, but I've sorta run into a snag here so a little help is appreciated. Thx.

Jon Light · From: Saugerties, NY

You want to screw the pedal stop set screw into its hole to increase the pedal travel, then back off the nylon tuner. This will buy you some pedal travel before the pull engages. Unless gravity pulls the pedal down and takes up all the slack.
Alternately, you can change rod leverage by moving to a bellcrank slot further away from the cross shaft (and then backing off the nylon tuner). This will result in more slack and a stiffer pull which may/may not assist in the issue of the pull being over-sensitive.

Jerry Overstreet · From: Louisville Ky

Ok, this is where I'm going off the rail. See the stop screws on the pedal stop bar. Screwing these down will limit the travel won't it? Sorry, should have posted a pic first.

I don't normally have this confusion, just haven't been feeling well, maybe that's got me lagging.

Jon Light · From: Saugerties, NY

You are absolutely right. I haven't looked at a Carter in a long time. Back off the set screw. But I don't recall if the Carter has pedal return springs on the pedals or cross shafts. If gravity pulls the pedals down and draws the nylon tuners into contact with the changer finger, you could still have the sensitivity issue, even if there is slack in the system. I just don't recall the details of the Carter pull train.

Jerry Overstreet · From: Louisville Ky

Thanks for putting that clearly in my mind Jon. I think I will get it straightened out now.

I know, there are differences in the mechanics of many steel guitars. No, Carter doesn't have return springs. I only have this sensitivity on a couple of pedals, so I don't believe it's gravity related.

Thanks again.

Gil James · From: Louisiana, USA

Jerry, I had the same problem on a carter s10 that I acquired recently. B pedal was super sensitive, I couldn't brush it without it activating. I was fixing to start adjusting the screws,but for some reason looked in the manual and noticed it called for a plain 6th string. Sure enough there was a wound 6th on there. Changed it, and normal pedal action! I wouldn't have thought it made that kind of difference, but it did.

Bobby Boggs · From: Upstate SC.

If the pedal travel is factory specks. Carter would advise going a 1/2 or a full notch higher on the bellcranks. But different strokes for different folks. I've always been a cowboy and set my personal guitars to suit me. To me. my guitars always played better than factor specks. Others my might disagree. I like short but soft pedals. So it takes a bit of tweaking for most brands.

Jerry Overstreet · From: Louisville Ky

Thanks Gil and Bobby. No, I use a plain 6th too. Yes Bobby, I generally tweak mine as well it's just that I got out of sync and wanted to get back to square one first so I can do that. Had a little gray matter stumble plus I haven't been playing or tinkering for a long time.

I think I got 'er on the mend now. Thanks everybody. Much appreciated.

Jim Palenscar · From: Oceanside, Calif, USA

It has been my experience that most of what you may be experiencing is that one string is starting b4 the other when being engaged. If they both start at the same time it will feel mo' betta'.

Jerry Overstreet · From: Louisville Ky

Thanks for that tip Jim. I'll check that too. That Fix It section on your site is something I had not noticed before. Lots of good info there for adjusting and timing changes etc.

That's a good reference along with Jon's sticky.

Ron Pruter · From: Arizona, USA

Jerry, it is easy to ad a little pedal return spring. I personally love no gap. In other words, instant contact. That's why I'm known as 'Lightning Ron'.😅 NOT!!
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Emmons SKH Le Grande, '73 Fender P/J bass, Tick tack bass, Regal high strung, USA Nashville 112.

Jerry Overstreet · From: Louisville Ky

I appreciate the tip Ron. I'm open to all ideas.

Ron Pruter · From: Arizona, USA

Of course Jerry, I meant a pedal lift spring. Usually a skinny little spring, just strong enough to counter the weight of the pedal. One end connected to a bell crank on the cross shaft of the pedal,and the other end to a screw you screwed into the wood deck.🤔
_________________
Emmons SKH Le Grande, '73 Fender P/J bass, Tick tack bass, Regal high strung, USA Nashville 112.

Eric Watts · From: Indiana, USA

Jerry, I am not in Louisville much these days, But can easily come by and help with a set up sometime if You like.

Jerry Overstreet · From: Louisville Ky

Thanks for the offer Eric. Maybe. We'll see how it goes. JO.

Dan Robinson · From: Colorado, USA

Paul Mozen · From: Fl, USA

Well, I didn't break the set screw I broke the bit. No one here has mentioned what size torx bit I need to get. What size is it? Thanks

Jerry Overstreet · From: Louisville Ky

I don't find any connection to this thread with this post.

IIRC, you were referring to Carter guitars earlier. It that's the case and you're asking about the star/torq bit that fits the bell cranks attaching screws, it is a size T10.

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