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Topic: My “New” Sho-Bud |
David Barnett
From: Eastern Kentucky, USA
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Posted 22 Apr 2022 11:18 pm
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Howdy everyone, I’m new here, glad to be here among you fine players. I’m mainly a banjo picker, worked with bluegrass bands over the years. A few years ago, I bought me a Carter Starter and got into the steel, played it and guitar in the clubs n bars for awhile, then got kinda “fed up” trying to progress on it, and sold it. Fast forward 5 years later, I’ve decided to get back into it and give it another go.
I found a nice 70s Sho-Bud Fingertip on Reverb, pulled the trigger and it should be here Monday. Has 3 floors, 4 knees, and comes with a volume pedal. It even has a name scratched into it under the frame, maybe the previous owner was a member here? Can’t wait to get started back. I gotta find me a seat and a Nashville 400, but I got a Cube 80X I can use in the meantime. Anyways here’s a few pictures of the guitar, what year could this thing be?
_________________ David Barnett RN
Hatfield Banjo Endorsing Artist
Derby SD-10
Emmons Legrande ll D10
A few old Prewar Gibson Banjers |
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Dennis Bailey
From: Fort Worth Texas
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Posted 23 Apr 2022 7:30 am
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That looks clean as a whistle! I bet it sounds great
Is there a serial number on the under carriage? |
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David Barnett
From: Eastern Kentucky, USA
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Posted 23 Apr 2022 7:47 am
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Dennis Bailey wrote: |
That looks clean as a whistle! I bet it sounds great
Is there a serial number on the under carriage? |
I'm not sure yet, ill check it out when it gets here. I didn't see one in any of the pictures the guy had posted on reverb. _________________ David Barnett RN
Hatfield Banjo Endorsing Artist
Derby SD-10
Emmons Legrande ll D10
A few old Prewar Gibson Banjers |
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Bobby D. Jones
From: West Virginia, USA
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Posted 23 Apr 2022 9:11 pm
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The guitar on the top looks great.
But, There is something on the bottom that looks a little questionable.
Those screws on the end plate with the name are making some strange shadows. Looks as if they are not tight in contact with end plate, And the 2 empty screw holes.!!. Check that end plate, Just to be safe. |
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David Barnett
From: Eastern Kentucky, USA
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Posted 24 Apr 2022 6:03 am
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I will Bobby, I’m thinking that was pictures he was taking while he was refurbishing the guitar.
So I also managed to trade a Les Paul I didn’t use anymore to this yesterday, a Fessenden S-10. It’s got 4 floors and 5 knees. Would anyone happen to have a tuning chart for Fessenden? I’m not sure what the 5th lever and 4th pedal are suppose to be tuned to. It’s came with a standard Emmons setup when bought new from what I was told.
_________________ David Barnett RN
Hatfield Banjo Endorsing Artist
Derby SD-10
Emmons Legrande ll D10
A few old Prewar Gibson Banjers |
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Tom Gorr
From: Three Hills, Alberta
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Posted 24 Apr 2022 7:07 am
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If you show us underside and tuning end plate pics we can see how the guitar was set up.
Normally the "5th lever" which is called the X lever or LKV (left knee vertical) has s5 and s10 tuned to A#. If the guitar has split-tuning capability, you may be able to tune X and A together to C and then use the Allen screws in the split tail end block to tune the X-lever by itself to A#.
The extra pedal could be many things - but usually what is called the Franklin pedal (or half of it.) S5 tuned down to G#.
Underbelly and endplate pics required. |
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David Farrell
From: San Diego, California, USA
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Posted 25 Apr 2022 9:06 pm
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I think the Sho~Bud Fingertip guitars were made in the '60s.
Dave _________________ Dave
Fender pedal steels, amps & guitars. '73 Sho~Bud PRO 1 CUSTOM. Emmons ReSound'65 S-10 4x5. |
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David Barnett
From: Eastern Kentucky, USA
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Posted 27 Apr 2022 5:39 am
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Ok, so I’ve been playing around with both the Fessy & The ole bud the past couple of days. Just have a couple of questions I need help with if y’all don’t mind.
1. On the Fessenden, the way the guitar is set up is pretty much the Emmons setup except….. The 4th pedal lowers the B’s and the RKL lowers the 1st & 2nd string. I’m assuming I can change that easily to a standard Emmons setup.
2.On the Sho-Bud, it seems that the A pedal and the 2 left knees aren’t pulling far enough to make the changes like they should, it’s like the Pull-Rods have to much slack. Is there some sorta standard way to adjust those brass stop collars on the pull rods or do you just have to set each one differently? _________________ David Barnett RN
Hatfield Banjo Endorsing Artist
Derby SD-10
Emmons Legrande ll D10
A few old Prewar Gibson Banjers |
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