Welding Aluminum

Sonny Jenkins · From: Texas Masonic Retirement Center,,,Arlington Tx

Wondering if there is anyone on here that welds aluminum. I've done some old time stick welding,,,and even some mig,,,but I know very little about the process of welding aluminum. I tried some aluminum sticks,,like brazing rod with a torch,,,even used my little jewelers torch which can control the heat very well,,,but the difference in temperature is so critical,,,and it doesn't actually melt into the work. You tube makes that method look pretty good but didn't work that well for me.

Tim Toberer · From: Nebraska, USA

I think AC tig is the way to go. These work for light duty repairs. https://www.menards.com/main/tools/welders-accessories/us-forge-reg-1-8-x-18-self-flux-aluminum-rod-0-8-lb/2532/p-1444439532121.htm

John Larson · From: Pennsyltucky, USA

TIG or MIG is the way to go.
Aluminum is very difficult to weld normally.
It's an exercise in futility to try and stick weld it in my opinion.
Aluminum has a very tough oxidation layer to break through when welding it so make sure the surface you are trying to weld is clean with acetone wipes or such.
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Ross Shafer · From: Petaluma, California

Hi Sonny,

Tig is definitely your best route for welding the type of things you'd want to put together. Mig is much more suited to less aesthetically important production type stuff.

Other than the first few prototypes which were bolted together...I tig weld all the Sierra aluminum frames.

Bobby D. Jones · From: West Virginia, USA

Tig welding would be the best for small (Steel guitar) parts.
It gives you better heat control on small parts. And add only the amount of filler rod to make a good weld. Makes for smoother, Smaller welds with easier fitting and finishing.

Ronald Sikes · From: Corsicana, Tx

Sonny, I have a high frequency tig welder . I might could help you out if you need something. Not that far from you.
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Tim Toberer · From: Nebraska, USA

Are you guys using dc rigs? I have a small stick welder I’m considering turning into a tig. It’s dc so I’m not sure if it will work for aluminum.

Ronald Sikes · From: Corsicana, Tx

Tim , Tig welding stainless is DC. Aluminum is AC. The one I have has a foot control for your heat , and a water cooled torch.
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J D Sauser · From: Wellington, Florida

Tim Toberer · From: Nebraska, USA

Andy DePaule · From: Saigon, Viet Nam & Springfield, Oregon

TIG is best for sure, but they are not cheap.
One of my sons just sent me a wire welder. It is a Harbor Freight one that they sell for about $100 and sometimes a little less.
My son got it in some kind of trade and said he used it and liked the way it worked. He has several kinds of welders so I trust his judgement better than my own.

He said it was for metal and didn't think it would work with aluminum.
However, I watched a couple of you tube videos and you can use it for aluminum welding if you use a special wire with it.
Sorry I don't remember the kind of wire, but will look into that when I get home and give the welder a try out. It's still in the box because I've been so busy getting my garage workshop organized.
Funny how fast we fill up a two car garage with tools and then need a four car garage. Laughing

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2017 Mullen SD-10, G2 5&5 Polished Aluminum covering. Custom Build for me. Great Steel.
Clinesmith Joaquin Murphy style Aluminum 8 String Lap Steel Short A6th.
Magnatone Jeweltone Series Lap Steel, Circa 1950? 6 String with F#minor7th Tuning.
1956 Dewey Kendrick D-8 4&3, Restoration Project.
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Darvin Willhoite · From: Roxton, Tx. USA

The TIG welder is just part of the cost, you have to have a bottle of inert gas for shielding. The bottle and gas is up to about $600 in my area. You only have to pay once for the bottle, then you can exchange it for a full one when it runs out. I think my last exchange was about $40.00.
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Darvin Willhoite
MSA Millennium, Legend, and Studio Pro, Reese's restored Universal Direction guitar, a restored MSA Classic SS, several amps, new and old, and a Kemper Powerhead that I am really liking. Also a Zum D10, a Mullen RP, and a restored Rose S10, named the "Blue Bird". Also, I have acquired and restored the plexiglass D10 MSA Classic that was built as a demo in the early '70s. I also have a '74 lacquer P/P, with wood necks, and a showroom condition Sho-Bud Super Pro.

Doug Earnest · From: Branson, MO USA

You will be much better off in terms of time, money, and frustration saved to go find someone who is equipped to do fine TIG welding on aluminum and regularly does so. Pay them whatever they ask.

Sonny Jenkins · From: Texas Masonic Retirement Center,,,Arlington Tx

Around here $150 "set up fee" is frequently what they ask. For a Builder or Manufacturer that can provide them several hours work that may be fine,,,,but for my 15-20 minutes worth of welding,,,,,,and certainly would not justify the cost of buying equipment. VERY fortunate for me I've had a couple of VERY kind offers from "forum family" members to help me out should I need it. I can normally find a way to get around the need for welding,,,but,,,sometimes,,,,,,???

Robert B Murphy · From: Mountain View, Arkansas, USA

For fine aluminum TIG is the only way to go. The gas has to be 100% argon and not the 75/25 ar/co2 usually found at the local welding supply (LWS) vendor. The aluminum has to be really clean (sanding and solvent) and the dc offset to the ac current has to be right to float off the oxide layer on the puddle. The lanthanated or thoriated electrode tip needs to be ground correctly on a diamond wheel and by the way, the dust is toxic. Then you need an experienced hand to get a good result. Go to a pro unless you're really interested in learning how to do it and money is no object.

Aluminum burns at welding temperatures. It must be melted in an inert atmosphere. There is a coating made for filler, not a flux, that makes a little gas bubble around the puddle to protect it from oxidation but you need an arc to make the gas bubble and by then you already have slag. Don't expect much from it.
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Bob, small o.

Scott Duckworth · From: Etowah, TN Western Foothills of the Smokies

Andy DePaule · From: Saigon, Viet Nam & Springfield, Oregon

Darryl Coyne · From: Georgia, USA

I can see this thread has been open for a while so maybe it is no longer directly relevant but I like to help where I can. If you have already found a solution, maybe this will help someone else.
On a build I completed about two years ago, I used the "alumiweld" sticks that are available at Harbor Freight to fasten 1" aluminum blocks to bent 1/8" aluminum end plates. While certainly not close to a TIG joint, I have found that the joints look decent and hold up very well. It is a little tricky getting the hang of using the sticks. What worked for me was clamping the block to the end plate and heating the assembly on the stove until it was just starting to deform a little. Once hot, I shut off the burner, then applied a propane torch and alternately worked in the rod and scratched at the joint surfaces with a small screwdriver. The scratching seems to help keep a new oxide layer from forming just long enough for the "weld" to adhere. The first few were difficult but not bad once I got the hang of it. The picture shows one of the finished joints.

Tim Toberer · From: Nebraska, USA

There are a number of these out there. I have some from Menards that work ok. It is very tough to get them to stick but it does work. I wondered if the Harbor Freight sticks are any better. I like your tip about preheating the metal and scratching. I think this is still relevant. I will never own a proper tig torch, so this is the solution I like. There are some Youtube videos of people testing the strength of these and it seems pretty good. It is probably not acceptable in some applications however.

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