| Should I replace my changer? |
| Yes: it's 40 years old and is due for replacement |
|
58% |
[ 7 ] |
| No: it's still working well |
|
33% |
[ 4 ] |
| Just replace the axle |
|
8% |
[ 1 ] |
|
| Total Votes : 12 |
|
| Author |
Topic: Should I Replace the Changer? |
Dan Beller-McKenna
From:
Durham, New Hampshire, USA
|
Posted 12 Mar 2022 4:42 am |
|
Today I got started with my project to add a second LKL to my 1981 Super Pro. Since this was going to be easier with all of the E9 pull rods removed, I decided it would be a good time to pull the changer for a clean and re-lube. I acquired the guitar in 2013, at which time I cleaned and lubed the changer. So it's been nearly nine years and I don't anticipate having the pull rods out again anytime soon: seemed like the right time to do it.
I have no problems with this changer. It functions very well. Pedal action is smooth and easy, and it holds the pedal and lever tuning as well as any other steel I have owned. As I started to remove the fingers, the 10th was (of course) the first to drop. I wiped it down and checked for "The Notch." It's there, but not so deep as to be causing any problems. If I had no other options, I would not take any corrective action at this point (bend the tang; Bob Metzger's JB weld fix; etc.). Don't mess with it if its working.
But: I do have options.
This time two years ago, reasoning that I would have no need to spend my money on any other equipment during the lockdown (HA!), I pulled the trigger on a NOS Super Pro changer on Ebay (from the fellow who sells stock from the Gretsch warehouse). This was intended for that day in the future when the notch started to become an issue. As I said, it has NOT been an issue. But as soon as I ran my finger nail over the notch in the 10th string finger and felt it, I thought: "Maybe now is the time for the new changer."
Looking for feedback on this. On the one hand: the changer will be pulled and it is forty years old: why not just put the new one in now? On the other hand, the original one--notches notwithstanding--is still working well. Might I change the feel of the guitar unnecessarily? I really like the feel of the guitar as it is. I would be using the old return springs (the NOS changer did not include them, surprisingly), and maybe they determine the feel of the changer much more than the fingers themselves. Maybe just use the NOS axle, as I suspect I will find some galling on the old one when I get it all the way out.
Thoughts? |
|
|
 |
Jon Light
From:
Saugerties, NY
|
Posted 12 Mar 2022 5:02 am
|
|
-- have replacement in-hand
-- have guitar pretty much disassembled
-- have another guitar, if this goes south (I think?)
-- have the confidence, willingness, and maybe even eagerness to dive in and use this brand new changer that isn't doing nobody no good just sitting there.........
Sounds to me like it is gonna happen. I give you my blessings (and a few bucks for a cuppa coffee).
And although I clicked "Yes: it's 40 years old and is due for replacement" I would have preferred clicking "Yes: because." |
|
|
|
David Mitchell
From:
Tyler, Texas
|
Posted 12 Mar 2022 1:31 pm
|
|
| If it was mine and at one time I did own a Super Pro I would have Michael Yahl from the PSG.com website build you some high grade aluminum tops for your fingers and you can use the same changer housing. The reason why is those fingers from the old Sho-Bud left over parts is a cheap pot metal alloy just like the ones that came on your Super Pro. That's the reason they get grooves worn in them and the aluminum ones sound better. Since you already have it tore down your already half way to having a great Super Pro. They also used cheap pot metal parts for the knee levers and they break in time. Michael Yahl sells some good aluminum ones to fix that problem. |
|
|
|
Dan Beller-McKenna
From:
Durham, New Hampshire, USA
|
Posted 12 Mar 2022 1:46 pm
|
|
| David, I would LOVE to have Super Pro fingers from Michael. Truth is, I already have a lot of his parts under there. I have never seen them on his site, though. Do you have a link? Also, the original ones on the guitar are still going strong after 40 years (they could probably go several more), so I'm pretty certain that the NOS ones would last longer than I'll be playing, given that I'm 62. |
|
|
|
David Mitchell
From:
Tyler, Texas
|
Posted 12 Mar 2022 2:01 pm
|
|
Dan I've bought quite a few parts from Michael but have never spoken to him his website works so well and he responds and delivers promptly. He usually indicates out of stock items but if given time and you're willing to pay I understand he can make whatever you want.
The original fingers work okay and if you don't plan on living and dying with those fingers I wouldn't worry about it. It was just a thought since you already have it dissembled. The older Sho-Buds that had that classic sound had real aluminum fingers. I liked the Super Pro because of it's small and lightweight. They just started cutting a few corners in that era to cut production cost. |
|
|
|
Dan Beller-McKenna
From:
Durham, New Hampshire, USA
|
Posted 13 Mar 2022 5:46 am
|
|
Gonna go with the new changer (fingers and axle, not the housing: don't want the forty-year worn C6 housing to get an inferiority complex next to a shiny new one). But I remembered to check to see whether the NOS fingers had one with the cut-off cam for string two. They do not, so I'm going to use the old finger for string two.
That cut-off of the extension for an optional raise-helper spring is necessary for the full whole-step lower (D#-C#) which I use a lot. I went looking for old threads to see whether anyone had encouraging advice for actually cutting the tab off and, as too often happens, found an old thread from ... me. Includes a link to Bobby Seymour's explanation of this mod. Looks like I actually last pulled the changer in 2015. I guess my medium-term memory is going the way of my short-tern memory (*sigh*). |
|
|
|
Dan Beller-McKenna
From:
Durham, New Hampshire, USA
|
Posted 13 Mar 2022 8:43 am
|
|
I was lubing the NOS fingers and the old dedicated second string finger (with cam cut off), when I noticed an anomaly: the original fingers rivets are applied in opposite directions (front to back) , while on the NOS fingers they go in the same direction. I can't see what difference it would make, but I was surprised to see that every available picture of Super Pro fingers on line (other than ebay ads for these NOS replacements) has the rivets going in opposite directions.
Anybody know if this was a very late change ind design at Sho Bud? Anyone think of a reason it could possibly matter in how the changer functions (I can't)?
 |
|
|
|
David Mitchell
From:
Tyler, Texas
|
Posted 13 Mar 2022 9:17 am
|
|
| If they are not rubbing each other I can't see how it would make any difference. Both in the same pivot spot and they all work independently from each other. |
|
|
|
Larry Bressington
From:
Nebraska
|
Posted 19 Mar 2022 5:44 pm
|
|
If the rivets rub against each other you can skim the heads a fraction with a roloc disc, i think i did that on mine because there was a slight rub, but can't quite remember now it's been a good 20 years ago.
_________________
A.K.A Chappy. |
|
|
|
