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Topic: changing first string RKL raise from G to G# on p/p |
Hamilton Belk
From:
Colorado, USA
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Posted 14 Mar 2022 10:05 am |
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I'd like to change my push/pull SD10 so that the RKL raises string 1 to G#. It currently raises to string 1 G and lowers string 6 to G. I've never worked on the undercarriage before. Can anyone steer me in the right direction?
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1982 Emmons D10 |
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Ian Worley
From:
Sacramento, CA
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Posted 14 Mar 2022 10:25 am
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The G# raise on 1 is a long pull, you'll want to have the raise hook in the hole closest to the changer axle. You can also use a Sho-Bud 2-hole bell crank and swivel for a little better leverage to shorten the pull a bit. If you're handy it's best to drill and tap a new 8-32 set screw hole in the Sho-Bud crank, they're in a different position than the flat on the Emmons cross shaft.
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All lies and jest, still a man hears what he wants to hear and disregards the rest - Paul Simon |
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Erv Niehaus
From:
Litchfield, MN, USA
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Posted 14 Mar 2022 12:23 pm
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If I remember right, I had to lengthen the bellcrank in order to make that change. 
Erv |
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Dave Meis
From:
Olympic Peninsula, Washington, USA
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Posted 14 Mar 2022 2:50 pm
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Since that string doesn’t lower, you can use the lowering rod hole for your raise hook. On that string only, you’ll use the lowering screw to tune the F# ( the G# tunes where it contacts the body. See pics.
F#
G#
I have that change on both of my PPs, and it works well. |
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Hamilton Belk
From:
Colorado, USA
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Posted 15 Mar 2022 5:31 am
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Thanks so much for the responses yall
_________________
1982 Emmons D10 |
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Jon Light
From:
Saugerties, NY
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Posted 15 Mar 2022 6:03 am
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For whatever it's worth, I raise String 1 F# > G# with a standard bellcrank using the changer pull rod hole closest to the top of the changer, as mentioned above. No difficulties on my '70's ST-12.
It can be a little tricky getting the hook into that hole until you get the hang of it. Note that the changer finger is thicker at that hole so where the hook comes through and sticks out on the top hole, it will not stick out on that bottom hole. I kept thinking that it wasn't in. I was wrong. |
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Hamilton Belk
From:
Colorado, USA
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Posted 15 Mar 2022 7:47 am
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| Dave Meis wrote: |
Since that string doesn’t lower, you can use the lowering rod hole for your raise hook. On that string only, you’ll use the lowering screw to tune the F# ( the G# tunes where it contacts the body. See
G#
I have that change on both of my PPs, and it works well. |
Dave, I got the change but only with my lowering screw sticking out quite a bit, which makes me think I did something wrong..
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1982 Emmons D10 |
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Kelcey ONeil
From:
Sevierville, TN
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Posted 15 Mar 2022 9:37 am
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| Hamilton Belk wrote: |
| Dave Meis wrote: |
Since that string doesn’t lower, you can use the lowering rod hole for your raise hook. On that string only, you’ll use the lowering screw to tune the F# ( the G# tunes where it contacts the body. See
G#
I have that change on both of my PPs, and it works well. |
Dave, I got the change but only with my lowering screw sticking out quite a bit, which makes me think I did something wrong..
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You need to remove the open tuning screw from the lower finger.
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Co-owner and operator: Emmons Guitar Co. |
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Ian Worley
From:
Sacramento, CA
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Posted 15 Mar 2022 9:41 am
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I agree with Jon, you should not need to use the lowering finger work-around to get a satisfactory whole step pull on 1. If you do go that route you need to make sure the neutral tuning screw is cranked in far enough that it doesn't hit the inside of the end plate when you release the pull. And yes, you might need a shorter lower tuning screw, as it is no longer operating in the range it was originally designed for.
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All lies and jest, still a man hears what he wants to hear and disregards the rest - Paul Simon |
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Dave Meis
From:
Olympic Peninsula, Washington, USA
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Posted 15 Mar 2022 10:34 am
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Remove the screw that tunes the 'natural' note completely (bottom row). That lets the raise finger rest against the back of the basket (see photo). Then, you'll use the screw that would normally tune the lower (upper row) to tune the 'natural' note.
Shoot me an email if you have any problems, and we can do a video call. |
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Hamilton Belk
From:
Colorado, USA
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Posted 16 Mar 2022 7:18 am
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Thanks for the help yall!
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1982 Emmons D10 |
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Jack Hanson
From:
San Luis Valley, USA
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Posted 16 Mar 2022 8:22 am
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| Why not simply leave it as is, and grab the first string with your little finger behind the bar in conjunction with the knee lever to pull the string up to G#? Works for me on my push/pulls. |
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Hamilton Belk
From:
Colorado, USA
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Posted 16 Mar 2022 8:35 am
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| Jack Hanson wrote: |
| Why not simply leave it as is, and grab the first string with your little finger behind the bar in conjunction with the knee lever to pull the string up to G#? Works for me on my push/pulls. |
I guess having it on the lever seems like it would be easier to play for me. I like the idea though.
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1982 Emmons D10 |
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Mike Wilson
From:
Mansfield, Ohio, USA
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Posted 17 Mar 2022 4:59 pm
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| What Dave Meis said. I've set up dozens of P/P this way. It seemed to be the best way to do it. |
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Henry Matthews
From:
Texarkana, Ark USA
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Posted 17 Mar 2022 8:47 pm
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| Mike Wilson wrote: |
| What Dave Meis said. I've set up dozens of P/P this way. It seemed to be the best way to do it. |
Yes, I agree, best way to raise 1st string. It can be done normal way a string is raised but makes a longer throw on knee lever. This way, pull length is normal.
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Henry Matthews
D-10 Magnum, 8 &5, dark rose color
D-10 1974 Emmons cut tail, fat back,rosewood, 8&5
Nashville 112 amp, Fishman Loudbox Performer amp, Hilton pedal, Goodrich pedal,BJS bar, Kyser picks, Live steel Strings. No effects, doodads or stomp boxes. |
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