Should I buy a Fender D10?

Andrew Danner · From: North Carolina, USA

I've been playing about a year and learning on an MSA Red Baron "3+1"

I've seen a Fender D10 come up for sale, for a decent price of $1ooo
Should I buy it or am I stepping into another student model?

Eventually, I want to get a better PSG. (maybe go 12 string), once I've learned a good deal on what I've got.
I certainly see the merit of the 2nd knee lever.

Thanks
AD in Tuckasegee

K Maul · From: Hadley, NY/Hobe Sound, FL

It’s not a student model but there are a couple types of Fender D10s. Do you have a picture?
Fender 2000s were made in the 60s and had the older cable system. They sound great but are VERY heavy and have a few other drawbacks compared to modern steels. They came without knee levers but it’s easy to make them.
In the later 70s Fender sold S-10 and D-10 models that were made by Sho~Bud. They are decent instruments and are generally undervalued.
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Eric Philippsen · From: Central Florida USA

At the risk of offending those who currently play the two steels I’ll offer my blunt opinion.

First, I can understand why you want to move on from a Red Baron steel.
Second, I’m not a fan of Fender “cable steels”.

If you can wait and save for the increased cost, put your order in for an Encore. Once you get it you’ll not have any regrets and, if the need should unfortunately arise, you could ALWAYS sell it for close to what you paid for it. When put up for sale, they rarely last more than a few hours.

Jim Cohen · From: Philadelphia, PA

Richard Alderson · From: Illinois, USA

Take that money and buy a more modern 3 x 4 or 3 x 5 single neck E9th; Student model or pro model either one. GFI student model, Justice, Stage One, or a decent used pro model. You will get farther faster. For just $500 bucks more you can have a wide choice of all of the above. You generally should want the newest guitar you can get. The Fender will DELAY your progress with mechanical limitations and imperfections.
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Dave Mudgett · From: Central Pennsylvania and Gallatin, Tennessee

To the original poster - definitely explain which Fender D10 you're talking about. There is a helluva big difference between a 1960s Fender 2000 cable system pedal steel and a later Sho Bud built D10. I'd say one of the later Sho Bud D10s for $1000 would probably be a pretty good deal if, and only if, it's in good cosmetic and especially mechanical condition. But as a relatively new player, whatever you get, you should get something that is mechanically solid that you won't have to be diddling with. There are a bunch of recent threads about 'what steel to get for a new player'. Read them.

I'll address the Fender 2000 issue, from my perspective. As already stated, these are an old style cable-operated Fender pedal steel with two 10-string necks, a bunch of pedals, and no knee levers unless someone added them. They have the very distinctive sound of the old Fender pedal steels - they are not a modern pedal steel at all. And they are extremely heavy - I mean, hernia-land heavy. And yet, with that said, they have a cool, very non-Nashville, non-traditional sound. Red Rhodes played one back then. Ralph Mooney played a Fender pedal steel back then. Sneaky Pete Kleinow played his 8-string Fender 400 for his entire career.

So if what you want is that old Fender cable pedal steel sound, a Fender 2000 for $1000 is not necessarily a bad deal if it's in nice shape. But you should know what you're getting into.

Personally, I own a mid-60s Fender 800, which is a single-10 cable-operated pedal steel. It is cool as hell for that old Fender sound. I would absolutely not have this as my only or even primary pedal steel. But I'm glad I have it. I thought about a Fender 2000 before I got my 800, but concluded that it was just too much of a behemoth for me. I already made that mistake when I had an old MSA Classic - another basically good guitar that's way too heavy IMO. Even the Fender 800 S10 is heavy, in comparison to most modern pedal steels.

Andrew Goulet · Posted 15 Feb 2022 8:55 am

Good advice all around. If you want that Fender sound (plenty of good examples of players to listen to listed here already), and are mechanically inclined/don't mind fixing things occasionally, get the Fender. But if you just want to upgrade, save another $500 and buy something more modern.
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Bob Carlucci · From: Candor, New York, USA

If its a Fender Artist series, its a spectacular deal,, they are very good guitars.. Fender knife edge changer, Fender pickups, fender tuning pan, and basically the rest is Sho Bud. Super Pro style undercarriage and pedals. They can go for twice as much as the $1000 quoted.. If its a cable model Fender 2000, I would pass.. those are fine guitars but crazy heavy, not really the right guitar for a beginner at all.. No knees unless they were added later as dave said.. $1000 is still good for a clean one, but really not the right guitar for a new player.. most guys that buy cable fender guitars today are experienced players with a few steels already looking for something different than the modern steels they have.... bob
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Andrew Danner · From: North Carolina, USA

Thanks fellas,
I think I'll count my copper, and get something better, when I'm ready.
(Full disclosure, my wife already told me "no", to having another PSG, hahahaha)

Chris Brooks · From: Providence, Rhode Island

I'll echo the other folks, Andrew: save a few more shekels and get a modern steel, one that you can load up with more pedals and levers if you so desire.

Later on, if you decide you must have "that" Fender sound, get one as an auxiliary.

MSAs, Carters are what I have owned.

Chris

Chris Brooks · From: Providence, Rhode Island

Hey Andrew, check out the GFI for $ 2500, right near you in Virginia.

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