Handmade lap steel bridges

Bob Gleason · From: Hawaii, USA

Actually I made a post similar to this a couple of years ago, but the info is gone from my computer. Before the pandemic I was teaching some lap steel building classes. To make it easy I used electric guitar bridges with string through the body. Worked great for students.I am now looking for some workable bridge designs that can be created in the shop. I don't want to get too carried away with machine milling, but I do have a milling machine. Any ideas appreciated. Thanks, Bob

Phillip Hermans · From: Berkeley, California, USA

I am also interested in this.

I have a BR9 that has been hacked on over the years (it's not all my fault!)

Ended up with a bridge made of aluminum angle iron (I think it was 1/4"?)

One piece was drilled for the strings and attached to the body, while another piece is used to saddle the strings.

Here is the guitar, when I got it there was a Tune-O-Matic bridge on there, but even with filing it, the radius made playing difficult.

Then I bought a 3D printed bridge from someone on the forum, but the string spacing did not match the poles on my P90! (not pictured here, just sent it off to get rewound)

So I've tried to fill in all the holes that were drilled in it Crying or Very sad

but I am limited in my abilities Crying or Very sad

Closeup of bridge:

The bridge works pretty well for now, it's similar to bridges on arch-tops I've played, you just need to reposition it for intonation when you change the strings as the tension holds it in place (it is askew in the picture due to loosening strings to remove pickup)

I know folks on here have a lot more experience and tools at their disposal. I would like to improve this guitar, but I am more interested in playing than tinkering. Although now that the pickup is gone it might be a good time to try a new bridge.

David Venzke · From: SE Michigan, USA

Chris Fouke used a simple piece of Aluminum U-channel in the early Industrial Guitars he made. Just cut to length, round the corners, drill six holes for the strings, drill three holes for the mounting screws ... and Bob's your uncle (so to speak). Here's a photo of one I owned.

Bob Gleason · From: Hawaii, USA

Thanks for the replies. Looks like I could mill something like that aluminum channel out of stainless pretty easily. Worth a try. Any other ideas always welcome. Thanks,Bob

Mike A Holland · From: United Kingdom

I always thought this was a neat simple design that works really well. Just a couple of pieces of aluminium angle in this case.

Greg Forsyth · From: Colorado, USA

Rukavina Guitars makes a real nice milled bridge for steel guitars, and will make the bridge with the string spacing you ask for. High mass bridges that help the tone and sustain of your guitar. Here's a link to one being sold on Reverb.

https://reverb.com/item/38433629-rukavina-6-string-lapsteel-guitar-bridge-2-1-16-string-spacing

Bob Gleason · From: Hawaii, USA

Thanks again for the ideas. Got some stainless coming and I'll have a go at milling it.-Bob

Brian Evans · From: Nova Scotia, Canada

The bridge on my National Dynamic is super simple. It would be hard to have a simpler tailpiece/bridge. One piece of 90 degree angle (probably steel, but could be aluminium) 1/2" by 1" (about, didn't measure) 1/8" thick. The 1" wide side has string holes in it, and screw holes to hold it down. It sits over a trough so the ball ends can go under, and the string holes have a little notch so they hold the ball ends. That's it. You could make one from aluminium in 30 minutes if you had a vice, hacksaw, drill and a couple of files. You could make it in a mill, if you wanted to. I wouldn't mill stainless on purpose, it's gummy, it kills tools and work-hardens in an instant. But then I don't believe that high mass (and stainless isn't very high mass) adds sustain to a plank of wood, either... Smile

Phillip Hermans · From: Berkeley, California, USA

Brian Evans · From: Nova Scotia, Canada

Jim Graham · From: Ontario, Canada

This an older Guyatone I picked up a few years ago, the original plastic bridge, or nut as it's on that end was chipped and getting brittle. After searching with no luck I came across a piece of 3/4" cove molding that is the exact shape so I cut a piece to length, spray painted it black and drilled the screw holes and replaced it with that. I also filed out the string grooves, the photo shows the "before" image plus the very narrow old tone bar that came with it. The guitar is currently in my teaching room at the music school, I can upload pics of the "after" version later this week if anyone is interested.

Brad Richard · From: Chisago City, Minnesota

I bought this Recording King without a bridge. RK couldn't get me a replacement so here's what I came up with. I bought a $10 bridge off Amazon(actually pretty well made and finished). I adjusted the string height to 1/2" and lined up the saddles. Nice string-thru-body setup and works like a champ.

Bob Gleason · From: Hawaii, USA

I have used those bridges many times and they work great. As a guitar builder I'm always wanting to make as many of my parts as possible, hence the desire to make my own bridges and pickups. I have been mostly an aciustic builder over the past 40 years or so, so metal work is a bit daunting, but still fun. Allows me to buy new tools, which is almost as fullfilling as building!

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