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Topic: Replacement Pedal Rods |
Jason Boucouras
From: Indiana, USA
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Posted 28 Aug 2021 7:21 am
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Hi, all! This is a very new-player question, so please forgive me. I originally started with a Carter Starter but pretty quickly upgraded to a Zum Stage One. I love it so far, but the pedal rods are quite old and the nuts at the bottom to adjust the height of the pedals are very rusted out. I was looking to get 3 replacement rods so they are easily adjustable. Would I have to get the same exact ones from Zum, or are they all pretty interchangeable? Any recommended parts sites to order from? Thanks all, as usual! I'm trying to really dial in my preferred height for the pedals. |
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Jon Light
From: Saugerties, NY
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Posted 28 Aug 2021 7:51 am
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An option would be to remove the connectors, clean off the rod threads, confirm from Bruce as to whether these are correct for the Stage One and buy some from him:
https://bb.steelguitarforum.com//viewtopic.php?p=3030000
You could sell off the surplus from the set of 8 and get some of your $$ back. |
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Johnie King
From: Tennessee, USA
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Posted 28 Aug 2021 1:16 pm
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I choose too buff the pedal board an pedals on my stage one also.
Hand sand rods with Four hundred grit sand paper then steel wool 0000 then buff pedal rods nuts an connector.
Oil threads lightly should work well an look close too new.
The simichrome is the ( last step ) for polishing aluminum.
Simichrome you can buy at the Harley Davison store a favorite for motorcycle fans.
Last edited by Johnie King on 28 Aug 2021 4:31 pm; edited 4 times in total |
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James Sission
From: Sugar Land,Texas USA
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Posted 28 Aug 2021 1:39 pm
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Go here and use the email address to ask about replacement parts.
http://www.stageonesteelguitars.com/
To answer your question, not ALL guitars use the same pedal rod configurations.
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Jason Boucouras
From: Indiana, USA
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Posted 30 Aug 2021 6:21 am
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James Sission wrote: |
Go here and use the email address to ask about replacement parts.
http://www.stageonesteelguitars.com/
To answer your question, not ALL guitars use the same pedal rod configurations.
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Yeah, I did that a while back and unfortunately haven't heard back! I know he is swamped with back orders after his medical stuff, so I figure he is just too busy at the moment. |
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Jason Boucouras
From: Indiana, USA
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Posted 30 Aug 2021 6:22 am
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Jon Light wrote: |
An option would be to remove the connectors, clean off the rod threads, confirm from Bruce as to whether these are correct for the Stage One and buy some from him:
https://bb.steelguitarforum.com//viewtopic.php?p=3030000
You could sell off the surplus from the set of 8 and get some of your $$ back. |
Unfortunately, the nuts are pretty much completely stuck on the connector so I can't remove them. It also looks like those are sold out, sadly. Thanks for forwarding though! |
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Jason Boucouras
From: Indiana, USA
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Posted 30 Aug 2021 6:23 am
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Johnie King wrote: |
I choose too buff the pedal board an pedals on my stage one also.
Hand sand rods with Four hundred grit sand paper then steel wool 0000 then buff pedal rods nuts an connector.
Oil threads lightly should work well an look close too new.
The simichrome is the ( last step ) for polishing aluminum.
Simichrome you can buy at the Harley Davison store a favorite for motorcycle fans.
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Those look great! My problem is that I can't get the nuts off to polish the thread. Any tips? |
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Jon Light
From: Saugerties, NY
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Posted 30 Aug 2021 6:37 am
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Jason Boucouras wrote: |
Unfortunately, the nuts are pretty much completely stuck on the connector so I can't remove them. It also looks like those are sold out, sadly. Thanks for forwarding though! |
Ah. I didn't see that at the top of the thread. Drag.
This is the one and only time that WD40 ought to be near a steel guitar. I'd let some set in and then, while the rod is still connected to the ball, muscle that nut loose with the proper sized wrench. I've never failed to loosen a nut once I overcame the fear of doing some harm (and I've never done any harm to the connector.)
The Forum store sells the ball joint connectors if you want new ones. I cannot say with authority that they are the right size but this is one of the few steel guitar parts that is usually standard. |
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Larry Dering
From: Missouri, USA
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Posted 31 Aug 2021 5:55 am
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There is always the use of heat on a frozen nut and last but not least place over a solid surface and a few taps with a hammer. I have a nut splitter that is essentially a chisel in its own clamp. Cut many a shock absorber frozen nut instead of a torch. Like Jon, some careful thought and lack of fear. In my career as a automotive technician that's a constant process. |
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