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Post new topic I broke it
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Author Topic:  I broke it
Ben Jones


From:
Seattle, Washington, USA
Post  Posted 13 Aug 2006 7:52 am    
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maybe one of you can help me fix it.
First problem is I dont know what they call the part thats broken. One of the white nylon hex things that you tune your knee levers with has become stripped I think. Its the E lower on the fourth string. It's been slipping a little while tuning, and then today when I hit the lever i heard a little "pop" sound and now it wont hold anymore. Do any of you know where I can purchase a replacement white nylon hex thingy , and what its proper name is? Thanks for the help.

Oh, if it matters any, the guitar is a Nashville LTD SD10.
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Bobby Lee


From:
Cloverdale, California, USA
Post  Posted 13 Aug 2006 8:01 am    
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They're called 'tuning nuts'. You can get a package of 10 of them for $8 from George L's web site. Most steel guitar dealers carry them too.

P.S. Make sure they don't send you a bunch of steel players in a box when you ask for some 'tuning nuts'.
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Ben Jones


From:
Seattle, Washington, USA
Post  Posted 13 Aug 2006 8:05 am    
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thanks Bobby!
Perhaps this is a dumb question but I was wondering why those things arent made out of metal rather than nylon?

[This message was edited by Ben Jones on 13 August 2006 at 09:16 AM.]

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Mike Ester


From:
New Braunfels, Texas, USA
Post  Posted 13 Aug 2006 8:22 am    
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If they were metal, they would not hold their position.

Metal threads to metal threads will not remain stationary unless you use a lock washer or thread-locking compound (e.g. LocTite).

A lock washer is useless, because the surface it would rest upon (the changer finger) does not stay in one position. The lock washer tensioning would be defeated.

LocTite would work until you had to adjust the tuning nut. Once you turn the nut, the compound is broken and will lose its locking properties.

Nylon tends to grab the threads snugly, hence its use in the tuning nuts.

FWIW, it's a lot easier to deal with a broken/stripped nylon tuning nut than it is to deal with a broken/stripped pull rod that is damaged by a metal tuning nut.

[This message was edited by Mike Ester on 13 August 2006 at 09:28 AM.]

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Ben Jones


From:
Seattle, Washington, USA
Post  Posted 13 Aug 2006 8:26 am    
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of course, that makes sense....thanks mike
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Smiley Roberts

 

From:
Hendersonville,Tn. 37075
Post  Posted 13 Aug 2006 8:27 am    
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Hey Ben,
Here's a little tip I learned from Shot Jackson many years ago. Unless the tuning nut is stripped,go to your local discount store & buy a cheap "retractable" ball point pen. The kind w/ a spring in it. Disassemble the pen,& remove the spring.

Now,use your tuning wrench to remove the tuning nut completely. Slip the spring on the tuning screw,& replace the tuning nut,being careful to "seat" it before you start turning it. As I said earlier,unless the tuning nut is stripped,this should solve your "slipping" problem.

P.S. If there's too much spring to adjust it,you may have to use a pair of wire cutters to "size" the spring accordingly. Lemme know if this works for you.

------------------
  ~ ~

©¿© It don't mean a thang,
mm if it ain't got that twang.



[This message was edited by Smiley Roberts on 13 August 2006 at 09:31 AM.]

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Howard Tate


From:
Leesville, Louisiana, USA, R.I.P.
Post  Posted 13 Aug 2006 8:47 am    
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Good tip Smiley, I hadn't heard that one. I think a tempory fix too is teflon tape,one or two wraps around the rod end before replacing the nylon nut might work until you get your new ones. Remember all nuts are not the same size, I'm not sure what size you need.

------------------
Howard
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Jerry Roller


From:
Van Buren, Arkansas USA
Post  Posted 13 Aug 2006 8:56 am    
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If the tuning nut is drilled from one end to the other you can just remove it and thread the other end onto the pull rod threads. If it is not drilled all the way thru and you have some drilling skills and tools you can drill the hole the rest of the way thru then thread it on. These might just be temporary fixes the best being to replace the nut.
Jerry
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Ben Jones


From:
Seattle, Washington, USA
Post  Posted 13 Aug 2006 9:40 am    
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Thanks all, good tips. Ive ordered the replacements. In the meantime maybe I'll swap the nut for one of the levers i havent learned how to use yet, like my vertical knee (not even sure what change is on that one but i know i dont use it yet...hehe)
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Chris Tarrow


From:
Maplewood, NJ
Post  Posted 15 Aug 2006 6:00 am    
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Which size tuning nuts for an 80s Sho Bud Pro I? Thanks.
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Ben Jones


From:
Seattle, Washington, USA
Post  Posted 15 Aug 2006 10:11 am    
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yeah i didnt realize they came in different sizes. I know the outer nut diameter is 3/16 but do i got to get down there with a micrometer and measure the rod diamter as well? hope I ordered the right ones, i just guessed and said the rod was 3/32.
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Martin Weenick


From:
Lecanto, FL, USA
Post  Posted 15 Aug 2006 11:36 am    
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Chris, Most all Sho-Buds use a .1094 ( 7/64 ) pull rod.

------------------

Martin W. Sho-Bud, Super- Pro.
Martin W. Sho-Bud, LDG.

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Paul Redmond

 

From:
Illinois, USA
Post  Posted 16 Aug 2006 3:13 am    
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Email/gmail me offline w/your snail mail address and I'll send you a replacement one FOC save for postage!! And a few extras!!

PRR

P.S.- They do wear out sometimes and you may have one that was "machined" instead of injection-molded. What kind of PSG and what rod diameter? Not a problem!!
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Ben Jones


From:
Seattle, Washington, USA
Post  Posted 16 Aug 2006 1:08 pm    
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Paul if that offer was for me ,...thanks man, thats too kind of you. I ordered the replacements, and swapped out one of the other nuts in the meantime tho so I wouldnt want to put you thru the trouble of goin to the post office. I that was for Chris, then um nevermind..but your still a nice guy
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Chris Tarrow


From:
Maplewood, NJ
Post  Posted 17 Aug 2006 3:09 pm    
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Thanks Martin
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