| Author |
Topic: need help with E raise lever ajustment |
Jim Palmer
From:
fredericton, nb
|
Posted 2 Aug 2006 5:31 am |
|
Could somebody please email me & explain how to set up & ajust my e raise lever. single neck sho-bud. Changer is single raise single lower, i'm using the two hole bellcranks with brass barrel tuners. The knee lever is left knee left  Thanks in advance. Jim |
|
|
 |
Erv Niehaus
From:
Litchfield, MN, USA
|
Posted 2 Aug 2006 9:50 am
|
|
| What's the matter with it? |
|
|
|
Jim Palmer
From:
fredericton, nb
|
Posted 2 Aug 2006 3:42 pm
|
|
| Oops! sorry Erv,that should read LkneeR.There's nothing wrong with the lever,I just want to know the proper proceedure for setting it up.also something's going on with the e 4th string,when I push the b&c pedals down together the e string will be in tune but if I just push the c pedal down alone it will always go way sharp. |
|
|
|
Paul Redmond
From:
Illinois, USA
|
Posted 3 Aug 2006 12:42 pm
|
|
You don't have enough slack and travel on your "c" pedal pull. When you hit your "a" pedal, the rod that pulls your 5th string is "tweaking" the crank on your "c" pedal. Since the 4th string is also connected to that same cross-shaft, the E pulls just slightly with the C# raise. Readjust your "c" pedal travel, back off a bit on the "c" pedal barrels, and you should be back in business post haste. I've worked on a few of these over the years for people and have found the biggest problem is that owners of these systems tend to try to set them "too tight" with absolute minimum travel. That's fine, but get a string that's a hair out of gage or something and the lack of slack comes back to rear its ugly head. Hope this helps.
PRR |
|
|
|
Paul Redmond
From:
Illinois, USA
|
Posted 3 Aug 2006 12:55 pm
|
|
| Reread your post. Check for binding on all these pulls. Something is causing the "c" pedal to drift along with the "a" pedal. It's either a backlash/slack problem or binding problem for sure. I just finished a ShoBud LDG (circa 1969/1970 vintage) 1-up, 1-down changer, 2-hole cranks. The only fault I find with this system is that you can't balance pulls. The main virtue of the guitar as that it's pretty much a set-it-once-and-forget-it arrangement. My customer has only had to tweak a couple of pulls since he got the guitar back 2 months ago and I had put new strings on it. Since then he hasn't touched it. Fine instruments!!! |
|
|
|
Jim Palmer
From:
fredericton, nb
|
Posted 3 Aug 2006 4:51 pm
|
|
Thanks Paul, I had those barrel tuners pushed back tight against the rod pullers  As a matter of fact, that was going to be my next dumb question, leave some slack or jam em back there ! : |
|
|
|
Paul Redmond
From:
Illinois, USA
|
Posted 3 Aug 2006 9:27 pm
|
|
| Glad that worked out for you. As I mentioned B4, once your setup is tweaked in it should stay there til the cows come home. It's a very limited system by today's standards, but that system still works very repetitively. |
|
|
|
Ricky Davis
From:
Bertram, Texas USA
|
Posted 4 Aug 2006 10:22 am
|
|
Hey Paul; about "Balancing pulls" you mentioned> I did write up a thing that I do about how to get the balance with unison strings on these single/single changers and double/single....Here> http://steelguitarforum.com/Forum5/HTML/009167.html
Ricky |
|
|
|
Paul Redmond
From:
Illinois, USA
|
Posted 4 Aug 2006 5:38 pm
|
|
Ricky - The balancing of pulls that you outlined in your posts works very well indeed. What I was referring to was the actual dimensions. . . the dissimilarity between octave (or other) pulls. With today's "modern" multi-hole cranks and multi-hole changers, it takes most guesswork out of the equation. I used your method in setting up the ShoBud I described earlier. As I also mentioned, my customer was very pleased with the results. . . his pulls do works very closely in tandem. Those old ShoBud mechanisms are still pretty tough to top even after all these decades!!!
PRR |
|
|
|
Ricky Davis
From:
Bertram, Texas USA
|
Posted 4 Aug 2006 5:56 pm
|
|
Way cool Paul; I can Dig man....Your on it.
Ricky |
|
|
|
