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Topic: NGD - Panda with a Coat of Many Colors! |
James Knox
From:
Phoenix, Arizona, USA
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Posted 27 May 2021 5:13 pm |
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Couple weeks ago I posted a pic of a RIC with some crazy Panel Colors. After doing some research here, I determined I was probably a “Pre War”, but the one pic available was out of focus so hard to tell.
I went ahead a took a chance and bought it. Now that it is in my hands I can see that is is probably between 1937-1940. String through Body, 1 & 1/2 Horseshoe PU, Patent Number on Pickup Ears. Here are some pics...
More info to follow! |
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Allan Revich
From:
Victoria, BC
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Posted 27 May 2021 5:26 pm
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Congratulations! It’s probably going to sound and play great, and the “coat of many colors” is fun, even if it is far from OEM!
_________________
Current Tunings:
6 String | G – G B D G B D
7 String | G6 – e G B D G B D (re-entrant)
https://papadafoe.com/lap-steel-tuning-database |
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James Knox
From:
Phoenix, Arizona, USA
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Posted 27 May 2021 5:41 pm
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After getting the rusted strings off and cleaning the smooge off, There are 3 problems to deal with:
1. The God Awful Panel Colors
2. The Tuning Keys
3. The wiring and/or PU. I Plugged it in, no sound!
PANDA PANELS
I took them off and they are definitely metal, not cellulose. A couple are painted white on the underside, a couple “unfinishedâ€. Would paint Stripper work here to get down to the metal? Just paint over the top of the existing paint? Suggestions?
THE TUNING KEYS
I happened to have a set of the fantastic Golden Era Replacement Keys In the reliced finish available from Stewart-MacDonald, so I am going to replace them.
WIRING AND PU
Opened her up and what a Rats Nest! Wires twisted together with no solder, cold solder joints, stuff hooked up wierd ...
Date code on the tone pot, can’t figure it out. No markings at all on the Vol pot. Tone Cap covered with wax and dirt. I’ll be replacing with new wire and CTS pots. Jack works good, I’ll keep that.
GOOD NEWS : the PU works. I put a couple clips on it and plugged it in to an amp and it was loud and clear - yay! I was a little worried, lol. |
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Allan Revich
From:
Victoria, BC
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Posted 27 May 2021 6:16 pm
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| Issues for sure, but since the pickup doesn’t need a rewind, and you have parts on hand, with a bit of luck and elbow grease you could be playing it some time tomorrow! |
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Bill Groner
From:
QUAKERTOWN, PA
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Posted 28 May 2021 12:56 am
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I would stip the panels and start fresh. You don't know what kind of paint is on there and it might not be compatable with the new paint. I would strip, prime, finish color paint, then maybe clear. (using paint from the same manufacturer so there won't be any surprises from using paints that aren't compatable) If you can find the right pearl coat paint, it might give it more of the look of the original cellulose? Go to an autobody paint shop. There are plenty of new cars out there with pearl coat on them. Ask a lot of questions, talk to a painter. Places that sell paint will load the color you want in aresol cans if you don't have spray equipment. Just make sure you stick with one manufacturer. You say the panels are metal. Do you know what kind of metal? That would help the paint guy out. Some metals need the correct primer to adhere to the metal.
See you later, going fishing........first time in about 40 years! LOL
_________________
Currently own, 6 Groner-tone lap steels, one 1953 Alamo Lap steel, Roland Cube, Fender Champion 40 |
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George Piburn
From:
The Land of Enchantment New Mexico
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Posted 28 May 2021 5:06 am White Substitute Panels
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We don't advertise these any more - I have some sets of FLAT White Acrylic Panels designed to Substitute for the arc panels.
The idea is for basket cases like you are dealing with, to "Make your Panda Live Again".
We do not make any Replicas for restoration, or worse, liars trying to use parts and say they are an original- like is common in the normal/steel guitar - flipper scams.
The White Acrylic is the same material of daze gone by, the shapes are plenty close enough.
Some edge sanding for a rounded over is required, little starter holes for the screws are there , and are just to help.
The old screws are supposed to be 3-48 if memory recalls what Rick A said some years back.
I rebuilt forum member Jeff Strauss 7 string , and took the intuitive to drill out all of the holes and tap them to 4-40 a more common screw in todays world.
One quick precaution, BakeOLight is completely a Toxic Carcinogen avoid any debris, ingestion at any level.
I've had so many folks misunderstand and think these are duplications of the Injection molded originals in hope of some sort of restoration.
They are just to help folks with messed up panels like the ones in this thread.
_________________
GeorgeBoards S8 Non Pedal Steel Guitar Instruments
Maker of One of a Kind Works of Art that play music too.
Instructional DVDs
YouTube Channel |
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James Knox
From:
Phoenix, Arizona, USA
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Posted 28 May 2021 8:12 am So THIS just happened!
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Ahhh.... much better! Now I can at least string it up and play it acoustically.
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Tim Whitlock
From:
Colorado, USA
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Posted 28 May 2021 11:31 am Re: So THIS just happened!
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| James Knox wrote: |
Ahhh.... much better! Now I can at least string it up and play it acoustically.
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Looks great! It's a good idea to keep any original parts in the case for possible future owners. Did you have to ream the holes larger for the new tuning machine posts? |
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James Knox
From:
Phoenix, Arizona, USA
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Posted 28 May 2021 12:17 pm
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Yes, I had to very slightly file a bit off the inside of the holes.
I also got the old wiring harness out. I’ll put the original parts away for safe keeping.
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Miles Lang
From:
Venturaloha
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Posted 29 May 2021 6:37 am
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That’s the Partridge Family signature model - come on, get happy!
_________________
Santo Fan Club - from the island of Coney to the sands of Rockaway
Jill Martini & The Shrunken Heads
All aloha, all the time |
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James Knox
From:
Phoenix, Arizona, USA
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Posted 29 May 2021 7:18 am
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Look Miles - I am getting Happier, lol.
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James Knox
From:
Phoenix, Arizona, USA
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Posted 29 May 2021 7:21 am
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| Bill Groner wrote: |
I would stip the panels and start fresh. You don't know what kind of paint is on there and it might not be compatable with the new paint. I would strip, prime, finish color paint, then maybe clear. (using paint from the same manufacturer so there won't be any surprises from using paints that aren't compatable) If you can find the right pearl coat paint, it might give it more of the look of the original cellulose? Go to an autobody paint shop. There are plenty of new cars out there with pearl coat on them. Ask a lot of questions, talk to a painter. Places that sell paint will load the color you want in aresol cans if you don't have spray equipment. Just make sure you stick with one manufacturer. You say the panels are metal. Do you know what kind of metal? That would help the paint guy out. Some metals need the correct primer to adhere to the metal.
See you later, going fishing........first time in about 40 years! LOL |
Good Fishin’ to ya Bill!
I’m taking your advice to strip, prepare, primer, white or cream and MAYBE clear Top coat. I don’t want it TOO shiny! |
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Bill Hatcher
From:
Atlanta Ga. USA
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Posted 29 May 2021 7:53 am
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| i would have been fine with the colors.... |
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Bill Groner
From:
QUAKERTOWN, PA
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Posted 29 May 2021 8:37 am
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Thanx James....I guess that's why it's called fishin, not catchin.......I do play better than I fish,(so far) and that isn't very well! ....... I will say this....I do both of the above better than I bowl! LOL
_________________
Currently own, 6 Groner-tone lap steels, one 1953 Alamo Lap steel, Roland Cube, Fender Champion 40 |
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Bill Groner
From:
QUAKERTOWN, PA
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Posted 29 May 2021 12:38 pm
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| James Knox wrote: |
Look Miles - I am getting Happier, lol.
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By the looks of them they are aluminum. It might look darn fine if you took gray scotch brite and shined them up with that. Here is how that looks on aluminum. I have no clear coat on it and don't intend to put one on. The Scotch Brite would save you a lot of work and $$$, plus you wouldn't have to worry about the paint chipping off. By the looks of what you have there now, you aren't far off from achiving that look with scotch brite. If you use the Scotch Brite, mount your pieces with the screws to a block of wood smaller than the overall piece of metal and hold the wood in a vise. When you do that you can get nice straight even strokes that go over the edge and it will look professional. If you don't like the look you didn't loose much in the process.
_________________
Currently own, 6 Groner-tone lap steels, one 1953 Alamo Lap steel, Roland Cube, Fender Champion 40 |
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James Knox
From:
Phoenix, Arizona, USA
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Posted 29 May 2021 4:28 pm
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Hey Bill,
These are definitely Steel and NOT Aluminum.
I like the look of yours! |
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Paul Arntson
From:
Washington, USA
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Posted 29 May 2021 7:19 pm
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Hi, James.
It's me guitar_paul from tdpri.
Glad you posted here. Beautiful guitar!
_________________
Excel D10 8&4, Supro 8, Regal resonator, Peavey Powerslide, homemade lap 12(a work in progress) |
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James Knox
From:
Phoenix, Arizona, USA
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Posted 30 May 2021 12:59 pm
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| Hey Paul - good to see you! Thanks for checking in. |
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