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Topic: On the bench: 2 neck gibson EH 150: finished |
Xavier Baron
From:
Mahina, Tahiti
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Posted 12 May 2021 5:19 pm |
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Hi guys
Long time since my previous posts...
I fall in love with the guitar on this picture:
Some work on a CAD software:
The scale is 22.5 "
Using local woods mostly (litchi wood for the back, and locally harvested (Tahiti)cuban mahogany.
The top will be quilted maple I ordered to Derek Kimball. Can't be delivered yet because of COVID restrictions...
Same for the pickups. Ordered 2 Charlie Christian style custom pickups to Pete Biltoft. I may have to wait before delivery...
Anyway there is some woodworking to do
The back will be litchi wood (very hard and heavy (0.8 but looks nice:
The body blank is a 2 pieces mahogany I cut from a nice slab:
Fretboards will be litchi wood:
Last edited by Xavier Baron on 6 Sep 2021 5:08 pm; edited 2 times in total |
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Bill Hatcher
From:
Atlanta Ga. USA
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Posted 12 May 2021 6:22 pm
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| keep posting pics as the work progresses |
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Greg Cutshaw
From:
Corry, PA, USA
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Posted 12 May 2021 7:14 pm
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| Love these types of posts that start with raw materials and progress to a finished guitar! |
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Eric Dahlhoff
From:
Point Arena, California
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Posted 12 May 2021 8:42 pm
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Yes! This will be fun to watch. Keep posting.
_________________
"To live outside the law you must be honest." (Bob Dylan) |
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Jon Light
From:
Saugerties, NY
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Posted 13 May 2021 2:24 am
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Cool!
Note: this very resonant guitar is very susceptible to sympathetically vibrating strings. It does not have a neck selector switch or a mute. Playing without a towel-damper on an unplayed neck is problematic. I strongly advise inclusion of a switch (which does appear to be installed between the necks in your picture -- something I don't believe I've seen on an EH -150 DN. If non-original, I strongly approve!)
I, too, look forward to watching this project develop.
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Dennis Saydak
From:
Manitoba, Canada
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Posted 14 May 2021 5:04 am
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Wow, that's what I'd call a very challenging project. You should have a real treasure once it is done.
I built a single neck version last winter and it also has a Charlie Christianson pickup from Pete.
I just ordered wood for my next project - 10 string EH-150 replica.
_________________
Dennis
Just when you think you're getting ahead in the rat race, the rats get faster. |
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Xavier Baron
From:
Mahina, Tahiti
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Posted 14 May 2021 1:30 pm
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Thanks guys.
Of course I'll install a switch between the two necks.
The headstock angle wil be cut directly in the neck blank instead of a scarf joint becaus I miss some wood length...
I'll get a 5 degree break angle, hope it will be enough as the strings will be over the nut that will be over a 6 mill fingerboard, and the action will be 3/8"... your advice? |
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Dennis Saydak
From:
Manitoba, Canada
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Posted 14 May 2021 2:54 pm
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I went with a 7.5 degree neck angle w/ scarf joint on my six string because I didn't have a thick enough neck blank. I have a thick enough neck blank for my 10 string to avoid making a scarf joint. Perhaps someone with more experience that I have can chime in here?
I have 1/4" action at the twelfth fret on mine. IMHO, 3/8" action would be too high as the Biltoff pickup I used can't be raised high enough for proper response unless you cut a lager than pickup opening in the top, which would look unsightly to me. My pickup is adjusted from the back side of the guitar rather than have adjustment holes through the top.
I can email you pictures of my pickup installation If I can get your Email address from the forum.
Good luck with your project.
_________________
Dennis
Just when you think you're getting ahead in the rat race, the rats get faster. |
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Xavier Baron
From:
Mahina, Tahiti
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Posted 14 May 2021 5:21 pm
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Thanks for the help Dennis. Really useful.
Is 1/4 action enough?
I'll ask for more info to Pete.
My original plan is the same as your. I modified the shape by importing the picture in my CAD software and followed it...
Got my templates today, THE real work will soon begin!
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Jeff Highland
From:
New South Wales, Australia
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Posted 14 May 2021 10:54 pm
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Hi Xavier.
Your tricone build is currently helping me with my Weissencone build.
_________________
Duesenberg Fairytale
1949 Supro Supreme
1950 National New Yorker
2008 Highland Baritone Weissenborn
2020 Highland New Yorker.
2020 Highland Mohan Veena
2021 Highland Weissencone |
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Dennis Saydak
From:
Manitoba, Canada
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Posted 15 May 2021 6:53 am
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| Xavier Baron wrote: |
Thanks for the help Dennis. Really useful.
Is 1/4 action enough?
I'll ask for more info to Pete. |
1/4" action is lower than what the plan shows. I settled for 1/4†all factors considered, which works for me. The limiting factor is the pickup mounting plate, which is rectangular in shape and larger than the hexagonal-shaped pickup top. The mounting plate will hit the underside of the guitar top in order to achieve the pick up to string spacing starting point of 3/16â€recommended by Pete. I could have cut a rectangular hole in the top for the pickup but IMHO doing that would have detracted from the originals appearance.
Notice even with the 1/4†action I used, I had to route a recess into the underside of the guitar top to accommodate raising my pick up high enough. I'd recommend doing a mounting mockup or drawing before cutting a hole in your top.
Two other solutions I can think of are:
1) Cut a rectangular hole in the top so the pickup can be raised with no restriction. That way you can use a higher 3/8" string action. The extra opening around the pickup can be covered on top with a thin bezel to hide the bigger hole.
2) Modify the pickup mounting plate by cutting it the same as the top. Then add a mounting plate and spacer underneath the pickup to accommodate the four adjustment bolts. I didn't want to do that for fear of damaging the thin pickup wires.
_________________
Dennis
Just when you think you're getting ahead in the rat race, the rats get faster. |
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Jon Light
From:
Saugerties, NY
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Posted 16 May 2021 3:17 am
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I have nothing to contribute to discussion of string height re: construction, pickups et al. But from a playing standpoint, for me, 1/4" is uncomfortably low. I just went through this with an inexpensive import that has a rather thick slab of wood for a fretboard. The 1/4" makes 1st string muted rakes (bar-nose down, heel up) extreme difficult. I made an 1/8" steel shim and installed it under the nut. I raised the bridge & pickups by a bit less. That 1/8" difference was a big deal.
Again, this is, of course, for my taste and playing style. |
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Dennis Saydak
From:
Manitoba, Canada
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Posted 16 May 2021 4:32 am
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A third solution could be to put the fretboard on a diet for a little extra picking clearance. 
_________________
Dennis
Just when you think you're getting ahead in the rat race, the rats get faster. |
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Jon Light
From:
Saugerties, NY
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Posted 16 May 2021 4:56 am
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| Dennis Saydak wrote: |
| A third solution could be to put the fretboard on a diet for a little extra picking clearance. :idea: |
Absolutely. That would have been Plan A but it was not an option on this guitar without potential extreme damage -- this 1/4" slab of wood (!!) appears well glued down. If I could have just unscrewed it and replaced it with a piece of printed stock, that would have cured the issue. |
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Xavier Baron
From:
Mahina, Tahiti
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Posted 16 May 2021 2:14 pm
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Thanks for the idea, I'll go for 5 mil fingerboards.
I asked Pere for more data about the raising possibilities of his PUs. Waiting for the answer.
I'm in trouble for the frets.
I initially wanted to use MOP or bone frets to be flush with the fretboard, and I know where to order. I already own about 30 from my previous lap steel works, but they are not long enough, and I can't order more because of COVID restrictions 
And I need 58 ones!
Almost same problem with MOP dots... not enough in stock.
I may have to use mandolin or banjo fretwire ...
Anyway, woodwork has begun.
First cut with the bandsaw then some drum sander work, to almost the drawing line.
The goal is to let as less wood as possible for the router bit. |
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Dennis Saydak
From:
Manitoba, Canada
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Posted 16 May 2021 4:20 pm
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In case it might help I carefully measured my clearances.
They work just fine for me.
_________________
Dennis
Just when you think you're getting ahead in the rat race, the rats get faster. |
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Xavier Baron
From:
Mahina, Tahiti
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Posted 20 May 2021 2:21 pm
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Hi guys,
Here are the neck blanks with headstock angles cut
I clamped the blanck with a square angle caul to keep the cut square. It worked.
13 mm thickness, I'll add 2 mm veeners to get the 15 mm required. |
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Xavier Baron
From:
Mahina, Tahiti
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Posted 23 May 2021 1:54 pm
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The 2 fretboards are slotted... a real pain to do, as the fretboard is too wide to go in the stewmac bitter box
Had to cut them with a dremel, 3 passes each slot to avoid bit breakage. 58 slots 
Last edited by Xavier Baron on 23 May 2021 2:52 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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Allan Revich
From:
Victoria, BC
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Posted 23 May 2021 2:17 pm
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Coming along nicely. Thank you for keeping us updated on your build.
_________________
Current Tunings:
6 String | G – G B D G B D
7 String | G6 – e G B D G B D (re-entrant)
https://papadafoe.com/lap-steel-tuning-database |
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Bill Groner
From:
QUAKERTOWN, PA
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Posted 23 May 2021 2:32 pm
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Yes Xavier, please keep us posted. I enjoy following along with your build......I have felt your pain.....many, many times, but you have a good head on you shoulders and I know you will solve the problems as they crop up. Keep up the nice work. 
_________________
Currently own, 6 Groner-tone lap steels, one 1953 Alamo Lap steel, Roland Cube, Fender Champion 40 |
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Xavier Baron
From:
Mahina, Tahiti
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Posted 23 May 2021 2:54 pm
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Thanks guys.
Would you agree if i use mandolin fretwire? I initially wanted to fill the slots with white binding, but after a a quick calculation I'd need 435 cm... and don't have so much... |
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Dennis Saydak
From:
Manitoba, Canada
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Posted 23 May 2021 3:24 pm
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Mandolin frets work for me. After all this is a replica.
I may use the same solution for my 10 string as the fretboard is wider than the available shell inlay lengths.
It's coming along nicely.
_________________
Dennis
Just when you think you're getting ahead in the rat race, the rats get faster. |
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Allan Revich
From:
Victoria, BC
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Posted 23 May 2021 3:49 pm
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| Xavier Baron wrote: |
Thanks guys.
Would you agree if i use mandolin fretwire? I initially wanted to fill the slots with white binding, but after a a quick calculation I'd need 435 cm... and don't have so much... |
Can you “sink†the fret wire so that the frets sit flush with the fretboard?
What about filling the fret grooves with white epoxy paste, like marine epoxy? |
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Xavier Baron
From:
Mahina, Tahiti
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Posted 23 May 2021 7:35 pm
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| Allan Revich wrote: |
| Xavier Baron wrote: |
Thanks guys.
Would you agree if i use mandolin fretwire? I initially wanted to fill the slots with white binding, but after a a quick calculation I'd need 435 cm... and don't have so much... |
Can you “sink†the fret wire so that the frets sit flush with the fretboard?
What about filling the fret grooves with white epoxy paste, like marine epoxy? |
Each time I tried to fill the slots with resin, I didn't had a clean job... |
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Allan Revich
From:
Victoria, BC
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Posted 23 May 2021 9:00 pm
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| Xavier Baron wrote: |
| Allan Revich wrote: |
| Xavier Baron wrote: |
Thanks guys.
Would you agree if i use mandolin fretwire? I initially wanted to fill the slots with white binding, but after a a quick calculation I'd need 435 cm... and don't have so much... |
Can you “sink†the fret wire so that the frets sit flush with the fretboard?
What about filling the fret grooves with white epoxy paste, like marine epoxy? |
Each time I tried to fill the slots with resin, I didn't had a clean job... |
Right after I posted that, I remembered the “fret less†bass I have in my closet. The frets were removed and the slots filled with resin. It looks good from a distance, but up close you can see some bleeding into the grain. A lot of builders on this site, hopefully someone will have some better ideas. |
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