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Topic: Reconditioning a bar. How to. |
Bill Hatcher
From:
Atlanta Ga. USA
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Posted 24 Jul 2006 7:18 am |
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We all probably have a bar that has suffered a tiny ding or some small scratches and such. I am not really talking about bars with a catastrophic hit on them, just normal playing wear and tiny marks.
What are some of the techniques that you guys use to bring an old bar back to life in regards to sanding and polishing the surface and still keep a correct flatness to the contact areas.
Seems like lapping with abrasive cloth strips might give a better chance of keeping the overall surface flat.
Thanks in advance.
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Erv Niehaus
From:
Litchfield, MN, USA
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Posted 24 Jul 2006 12:50 pm
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| I think what you are talking about would work on a solid stainless bar but doubt if it would do much good on a chrome plated bar. |
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Chip Fossa
From:
Monson, MA, USA (deceased)
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Posted 24 Jul 2006 1:23 pm
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I would think a new bar would be the way to go.
They aren't that expensive [like the steel or amp] yet. |
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Farris Currie
From:
Ona, Florida, USA, R.I.P.
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Posted 24 Jul 2006 2:24 pm
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I use to work in a large machine shop,they had a Cin.Centerless grinder but that would be very hard to get someone to do it i suppose. They would rebuild all type of engine valves,then grind the stems.
I got the grinder man to grind some magnets down one time. he came over later and threw a pc of steel at me!!!! Hell i didn't know and he learned,that magnet dust stuck all over his grinder!!!!
farris |
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Jim Bob Sedgwick
From:
Clinton, Missouri USA
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Posted 24 Jul 2006 5:29 pm
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| Small scratches can be removed from a stainless steel bar with Mother's Mag and Aluminum polish. Guaranteed !!! Just like new, only slicker. |
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Ron Randall
From:
Dallas, Texas, USA
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Posted 24 Jul 2006 9:52 pm
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What Jim Bob said.
rr |
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Curt Langston
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Posted 25 Jul 2006 2:29 am
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If you have deep gashes though,(like ones you have seen from dropping on concrete or something) it is best to just buy a new one. Trying to "refinish" one with deep gashes will usually not work. Polishing out the gashes will leave flat, or uneven places on the bar, resulting in string buzz from uneven pressure, (caused by the uneven surface) applied to the strings.
Besides that, after you buy all the Mothers Mag or fine grit sandpaper, then do all the work, you still have to contend with those uneven spots. UNLESS, you can find a machinist to turn your bar down a little on a lathe. In which case you have lost diameter and weight.............
Just buy another new one. BJS, Burden or Geo. L's would appreciate the business.
I have tried all these methods of scratch, or gash removal and I found out when you weighed in time and money, it was cheaper to buy a new one!
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Paul King
From:
Gainesville, Texas, USA
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Posted 25 Jul 2006 3:40 am
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| Just buy a BJS bar and you will not be disappointed. |
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Ron !
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Posted 25 Jul 2006 4:14 am
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I made my bars from "Chrome-Steel".I made several.I even made Chris Brooks one with his name ingraved in it.It was done with a laser and is not noticable on the bar.It does not have any effect on the strings.But what I am trying to say is.I would go for a bar that is not chromed.I don't know what BJS uses for material but if it's SS then I would go for that.I don't make them anymore.To much work and besides I sold my lath. 
Ron |
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David Mason
From:
Cambridge, MD, USA
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Posted 26 Jul 2006 5:11 am
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I would assume Mr. Hatcher knows that he's allowed to buy a new bar if he wants, but is rather more interested in the D.I.Y. approach or perhaps just doesn't want to treat EVERYTHING in the whole world like a disposable BiC pen - he has after all been known to refret an old guitar rather than throw it out and get a new one? I have successfully reshaped the nose of a Burden bullet and repolished a Dunlop using a basic process of wet/dry sandpapers, 320-400-600-1500-2000, then a progession of buffing compounds. I used a sanding block and patience with the sandpaper to try to keep the surfaces straight. Though I can see how it would be a lot easier to flat-spot it with power tools, I was in no hurry - "finger-therapy" during intermittent TV moments. The hardness of the steel matters, the Dunlop was soft, the Burden somewhat less so. I bought Roy Ayres' old bar from him on the Forum a few years back and when I tried to polish out some minor scratches, it proved to be so hard that silicon carbide paper won't even touch them - I can't hardly figure out how it got scratched in the first place?  |
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Dr. Hugh Jeffreys
From:
Southaven, MS, USA
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Posted 27 Jul 2006 2:04 pm
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| I have used 400=-=600 grit sandpaper to good advantage. ----j---- |
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John Hawkins
From:
Onalaska, Tx. on Lake Livingston * R.I.P.
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Posted 28 Jul 2006 2:35 pm
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Bill,
Unless you and others really want to go through all the time and effort to try and recondition a bar, I would suggest you invest in a BJS bar ( or two ) . They are practically indestructable ! I have had two for many years and only played one of them for all those years ! I use the other one for a spare . There is not a scratch on the one I play after all the years . I have even dropped it a very few times on very hard surfaces --still no dings or ANY scratches and I play stainless steel S.I.T. strings .
I don't know what Bill Stroud uses medal wise, to build them , but whatever it is , must be mighty , mighty strong stuff.Bill Stroud is a very fine guy to talk to and do business with . He really stands behind his product!
I would suggest you search here on the forum and read about BJS bars . They are not cheap but in the long pull, they will last you a very, very long time!
John |
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Donald Dunlavey
From:
Jonesboro, Georgia, USA
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Posted 30 Jul 2006 4:36 am
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Bill,
I use 800 grit, wet or dry with a light rubbing oil, on a small block, using very even strokes around the bar from one end to the other. I have two metal buffers, and if you hold the Bar correctly and buff in a pattern, I don't think you'll have, any problem with dips in the bar. Have made quite a few bars of Stainless Steel, coated bars are definitly a different game, and as you were saying not deep gashes, just surface scratches. You need one buffed just let me know and I'll take care of it just cause you're a Bud. |
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Bill Hatcher
From:
Atlanta Ga. USA
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Posted 30 Jul 2006 1:57 pm
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Thanks DD and ditto.
Just wanted to know the correct way to do this.
Not interested in replacing a bar that just needs repolishing.
Thanks for the info. |
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Donald Dunlavey
From:
Jonesboro, Georgia, USA
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Posted 31 Jul 2006 4:53 pm
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| Like I said Bill got two nice metal buffers, High speed. You're welcome to use or will do for ya. See ya |
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