2nd String RKR Set Screw Adjustment

Flip Brown · From: Vermont, USA

Howdy - I’m three years in to learning this unique and wonderful instrument (not counting trying to make a Harland Multi-Chord work back in the 70s when neither it nor I were very functional).

I’ve got a mint Sierra Artist and we’re getting along nicely except for one challenge. I can’t for the life of me figure out how to adjust the two set screws so I can go from D# to D to C#. I’ve futzed with making one screw shorter or longer than the other to no avail. FYI - I’ve got the pull on second highest hole (from the free end) on the bell crank and in the middle hole on the pull section of the changer.

I’m sure others have solved this and could help me out in the collaborative spirit of this Forum.

Much appreciated. . .
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MSA Millennium SD-10 #22, Fender Steel King with Eminence EPS-15C speaker, Lehle Mono 90 Volume Pedal, Sarno Black Box, Baby Bloomer, Sarno Earth Drive, EHX Mel 9, EHX Small Stone, Mooer Chorus, Keeley Caverns, Clinesmith bar, Acri picks, Nioma lap steel, Regal resonator, and a whole bunch of other instruments.

Ron Pruter · From: Arizona, USA

Flip, the artist doesn't come with split screws. They would have made things easier. You'll have to use the 9th string pull on the same lever( a very common thing to do) to engage right at the half step of the 2nd string. This added tension can be used to feel the half way point on the change. Added tightening of the return spring on string 9,can also make he stop easier to feel. You'll have to experiment with different holes in the bell cranks and changer on the 9 string to get it right. Good luck. RP
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Emmons SKH Le Grande, '73 Fender P/J bass, Tick tack bass, Regal high strung, USA Nashville 112.

Flip Brown · From: Vermont, USA

Thanks, Ron.

The confusion here is between split screws and set screws. I agree the Artist doesn’t have split screws, however I can send you a picture of the two set screws that adjust the 2nd string mechanism of the RKR. Perhaps another steeler has experience with this.

I do appreciate you taking the time to respond.
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MSA Millennium SD-10 #22, Fender Steel King with Eminence EPS-15C speaker, Lehle Mono 90 Volume Pedal, Sarno Black Box, Baby Bloomer, Sarno Earth Drive, EHX Mel 9, EHX Small Stone, Mooer Chorus, Keeley Caverns, Clinesmith bar, Acri picks, Nioma lap steel, Regal resonator, and a whole bunch of other instruments.

Ron Pruter · From: Arizona, USA

Flip. Post or send me a picture.🎶
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Emmons SKH Le Grande, '73 Fender P/J bass, Tick tack bass, Regal high strung, USA Nashville 112.

Flip Brown · From: Vermont, USA

I so appreciate your offer of further assistance. Here are three pictures of those pesky set screws.

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MSA Millennium SD-10 #22, Fender Steel King with Eminence EPS-15C speaker, Lehle Mono 90 Volume Pedal, Sarno Black Box, Baby Bloomer, Sarno Earth Drive, EHX Mel 9, EHX Small Stone, Mooer Chorus, Keeley Caverns, Clinesmith bar, Acri picks, Nioma lap steel, Regal resonator, and a whole bunch of other instruments.

Tucker Jackson · From: Portland, Oregon, USA

Flip, you might want to send a private message to Jim Palenscar here on the forum. In an old thread, he confirmed that the 2nd string half-stop is tuned using screws on the reversing mechanism of the lever itself, or "flipper" as he called it. But he didn't say how it was done.

Also, you might be able to suss it out yourself by putting the guitar in the case and very slowly moving the knee lever and watching the pieces move. You want the first part of the travel to move with no real resistance other than the normal string-lowering tesion. At some point partially through the travel, something in that mechanism will hit or engage, or a spring will reach the end of it's compression (sorry, I have no idea from the photo how it actually works -- but maybe if you watch it in action, you'll figure it out). Whatever it is that "kicks in" partially through the lever's travel, that slight bit of added resistance that suddenly engages is the "feel stop"... the thing that you can hopefully adjust using those screws so the resistance hits at the exact moment the 2nd string hits the D note.

You then have to learn to use it while playing; you'll feel that slight bit of added resistance with your knee when the note reaches D.... and you'll stop pushing the lever over at that point and just hold it there. But if you were to push it harder, overcoming the half-stop 'resistance', the string would continue lowering down to C#.

Ron Pruter · From: Arizona, USA

Flip. I think I got it figured out. If you mean those two screws on that blackish plate, I believe they just hold a bearing on. No adjustment there.That whole piece is a reverser. I noticed there is another puller, also called a bell crank, on that shaft. That needs to be connected to an additional pull rod, running to and through one of the three holes for the lowering section of the changer (for the 9th string). Then put a plastic hex tuner on it for adjustablity. Your challenge will be which holes to use. Your adjusts will be- #1) which hole in the bell crank. I'd use the one furthest from the shaft. #2) which hole in the changer? I'd use the 4th hole down from the axle. (The first of the three lowering holes) #3) The hex tuner will adjust when the slack is gone. Read my first post to you. Now maybe it will make more sense. If this is to hard to understand, I'll draw you a diagram Very Happy

RP
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Emmons SKH Le Grande, '73 Fender P/J bass, Tick tack bass, Regal high strung, USA Nashville 112.

Rich Upright · From: Florida, USA

Many steels use the 9th string adjuster for the half stop.
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A couple D-10s,some vintage guitars & amps, & lotsa junk in the gig bag.

Jim Palenscar · From: Oceanside, Calif, USA

The change is started by the screw at the end of the flipper- you can adjust the backlash there- and the screw closest to the base of the flipper (closest to the cross shaft that the flipper w the screws is mounted on) is for adjusting the 1/2 stop.

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