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Topic: What determines correct string gauge? |
William Carter
From:
Cedar Rapids, Iowa, USA
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Posted 17 Jan 2021 6:10 pm |
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One of my past instruments stated in the manual that the string gauges were important and needed to be kept identical to the ones included by the manufacturer. I have seen packs of E9 strings (10 string) that did not match what I had, even though the notes were the same. So my question is what determines the proper gauge, and why can some guitars have different ones than others. I also noticed that sometimes the 6th string was wound. I just would like to understand how all this works.
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ZumSteel D10, Mullen G2 SD12 Universal, Rittenberry SD10 |
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Dave Meis
From:
Olympic Peninsula, Washington, USA
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Posted 17 Jan 2021 6:39 pm
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Mainly determined by the highest open note on that string.. e.g. 3rd string A, 5th string C#, etc..
Google 'string gauge by note' and you'll find info there. Thinner strings require more 'movement' than thicker strings. Some like the sound of a wound 6th, but it requires more 'movement' to raise and lower due to the fact that the 'core' string is thinner.
Hope this helps... |
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Jon Light
From:
Saugerties, NY
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Posted 18 Jan 2021 4:13 am
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Any change from the gauges that are currently on the guitar will require some tweaking at the nylon tuners. But the difference between, say, .017 and .018 on the 5th string or .036 and .038 on the 10th string can easily be handled by any guitar (with those minor tweaks).
Changing from a wound to a plain 6th string or vice versa is a guaranteed big deal. Significant tuning changes will be required and maybe some rerodding. This is the one difference between string sets that MUST be paid attention to.
If you change from one to the other, be sure that it is a deliberate plan and not an accident. |
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William Gallagher
From:
California, USA
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Posted 18 Jan 2021 9:20 am
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Main thing is to avoid breakage (using an 11 on the E9 3rd string) and string return: If sharpening lever come back sharp, use a heavier gauge string. If flatting lever come back flat, use a lighter gauge.
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'75 Emmons p/p, Duesenberg Alamo, Dobro with Hipshot, Nashville 112, Little Walter 22/50, Fender Blues Deluxe, and enough effects gear to fill a dump truck. |
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Thomas Stone
From:
San Francisco
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Posted 18 Jan 2021 8:33 pm
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The main point is that if you use the same brand and gauges of strings as the original equipment, you should be able to change one or all strings and only have to tune at the keyhead, not at the nylon nuts at the changer. Or at the most, do very minimal tweaking.
If you change brands but the nominal gauges (outer diameters) are the same, you may still have to do some tweaking, because the solid core of the wound strings may be a different diameter than the originals. It's the diameter of the solid core that determines the "stretchiness" of the wound strings, and hence, how much finger travel is needed to achieve a given pitch change. |
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Clyde Mattocks
From:
Kinston, North Carolina, USA
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Posted 18 Jan 2021 10:12 pm
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How much you demand from a string is a factor. For instance, my 10th string goes from a low of A to a high of D. I have to use an .036w instead of the more commonly packaged .038w or I will experience premature breakage. I never break a 10th anymore.
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LeGrande II, Nash. 112, Fender Twin Tone Master, Session 400, Harlow Dobro, R.Q.Jones Dobro |
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Larry Allen
From:
Kapaa, Kauai,Hawaii
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Posted 19 Jan 2021 4:56 pm
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Here’s one from the archives.... 
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Excel steels & Peavey amps,Old Chevys & Motorcycles & Women on the Trashy Side |
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