My first build, help or advice on control cavity

JB Bobbitt · From: California, USA

Hello all;

I'm about to rout the control cavity on my Duesenberg clone. It's my first build, and I don't have much experience playing a lap steel, so I'd like some advice on the placement and layout of the controls and control cavity and cable jack, and placement of the knobs on the top side.

It's a simple build: single Lollar String-Through PUP (top mount), volume and tone pots, capacitor, jack. I'd be happy to go with the Duesenberg layout, or close to it.

The questions: Is there an optimum size and shape for the control cavity? Should it be oversized compared to the minimum space necessary to fit? Any thoughts on clearance of the control knobs with respect to the PUP or strings? Anything else I need to know?

I'm an accomplished woodworker, I'll fashion a shop-built template for the rout.

Any advice appreciated. If somebody could post a pic of the back of your Duesenberg or other guitar, that'd be cool too (cover plate on would be easiest).

Again, thanks a heap.
-jbb

(Note: the bridge is a work in progress, not cut to size yet)

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"Time is an enemy"
-Bob Dylan

Bill Groner · From: QUAKERTOWN, PA

If it was me, since you have that nice little niche on the butt end, I would mount the jack there. I would move the Volume and Tone knobs down a bit and don't forget to have a ground wire to the strings. I make the hole for the pots 1" diameter and you can rout a slot to connect them if you like. It's easy to make a cover for the slot to finish it off like the pictures.

7/8" diameter for the jack. I counterbore from the back side leaving about 1/8" of wood on the top side for the pot posts to come through and catch the lock nut.
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Currently own, 6 Groner-tone lap steels, one 1953 Alamo Lap steel, Roland Cube, Fender Champion 40

George Piburn · From: The Land of Enchantment New Mexico

Hello from GeorgeBoards

Here are some photos from our new unreleased or advertised SkyLiner KIT slide steel guitar.

We go with - 1/4" thickness for the control pots to go through, most full sized pots - have 3/8" long and diameter threaded shafts.

The pocket width is 1.1 inches, to fit a full 24mm pot.

Looks like you plan side mount output jack.
There are 1/4 jacks with a longer threaded part that make it useable with a thicker wall if you plan to go through the wood no out side plate thingy.

I have mine set up to do either a wall mount on the side or a long panel jack through the end (angled part of the tail)

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Paul McEvoy · From: Baltimore, USA

Personally I hate when the jack is on the bottom or angled towards the bottom. It's nice to be able to stand the guitar up on its end or put it in a stand and the jack gets in the way.

Bill Groner · From: QUAKERTOWN, PA

JB Bobbitt · From: California, USA

Thanks guys. I researched pic of other guitars and revised placement. I'm more comfortable with placing the pots/knobs closer to the PUP and bridge (still in progress).

BUT, re: grounding the strings. I wasn't aware of the need, and I'm not sure how.

The first and easiest way I can think of is to place a metal strip in a rout on the back side, under the bridge. The guitar body will be a string-through model. I had planned on using grommets to accept the strings anchors (?), but a small metal plate with holes and a ground wire to the cable jack will work.

Right?

Note I've left the butt-end long so I can put some benders on, if I choose, later.

Thanks again. George, I'm using your nut. thx.
_________________
"Time is an enemy"
-Bob Dylan

Bill Groner · From: QUAKERTOWN, PA

If you put the jack in between the pots, you can drill straight in with the 7/8" bit for say an inch deep, then switch to a smaller drill maybe 1/4 ", 5/16" or 3/8" diameter and drill deep enough in the body to be under the treble side of the Pup. Drill a small hole straight down from the top to meet your 1/4" hole coming in for the jack. You now can solder the ground wire to the back of the pot and fish it up to be pinched under the Pup base when screwed in place and your lap steel will be grounded. JB...I guess I was thinking of a tele I just built. You need to ground the strings not the Pup. The tele had a string through bridge with the Pup attached so the ground wire went under the bridge pan and the strings were grounded. Sorry, for the misinformation.
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Currently own, 6 Groner-tone lap steels, one 1953 Alamo Lap steel, Roland Cube, Fender Champion 40

George Piburn · From: The Land of Enchantment New Mexico

For certain you want to ground the antennas --- I mean Strings.

The bottom plate is a good eye deer , and you can get a little wire from under the end of that roller axle.

Under that dark wood you can go much larger drill size down into the pocket, and only need to be careful on the dark wood.

I use the tip of a flat blade screw driver to make a quick little channel for the wire under the axel if needed.

BTW The pickup will ground when you hook it up , the strings them selves are another concern

I am loving another build keep em going! Very Happy

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GeorgeBoards S8 Non Pedal Steel Guitar Instruments
Maker of One of a Kind Works of Art that play music too.
Instructional DVDs
YouTube Channel

JB Bobbitt · From: California, USA

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