Big Guy Steel Players.....Questions About Your Lever Setup

Jim Fogarty · From: Phila, Pa, USA

Ummm, fellow LARGE steel players......kind of a sensitive question.

So, I've owned a Stage One for a couple years now. Love it and I'm playing pretty well. But I have one particular issue, and I wonder how you big guys deal with it.......

I'm 5'11" and over 3 spins....and as you can see in the picture, getting my meaty legs together and not activating the levers unintentionally is pretty much impossible. I can do it, very briefly, but they won't stay in place even close to comfortably, and will even cramp if I force the issue.

So, how do you guys make it work? Do other steels have the ability to open up the width between the levers? Do you do without? Set the steel height/angle a certain way I'm missing? Different kind of levers?

Seriously, I could use some help here. Without this issue, I'd be making MUCH better headway. Right now, it's literally a pain to sit behind the steel for long.

Thanks!

(PS....fat jokes and "just lose weight" comments don't bother me, but aren't particularly helpful.......so you might as well keep them to yourself).

Paul Strojan · From: California, USA

I get it, some people are not one size fits all. For me I find the natural place for my right leg is outside the legs. For the left leg, it might make sense to install some cable operated knee levers so that you don't have to mess with the the cross shafts.

Ian Worley · From: Sacramento, CA

From the pics I've seen of the Stage One undercarriage, they are pretty simple. No reason you couldn't just move the knee lever(s) over a bit to give yourself more room. You'd have to drill a couple of holes in the back apron for the cross shaft bushings, and replace or shorten a couple of rods. Perhaps move both LKR and RKL toward the center.

Mack Quinney · From: Texas, USA

Jim.
I had a similar issue with an MSA Classic. The knee levers were spaced where my left foot was at a severe angle to the ABC pedals. This was very uncomfortable on my ankle.

I had Jim Flynn move the left knee lever cluster over. On a MSA Classic he put the cross shafts in a different hole, opening up the space between my knees. On the Stage One looks like it would be a little more difficult in that a series of holes along the side does not exist. Good steel tech could probably do it though.
_________________
76 Emmons Push Pull, Williams 600, ShoBud Pro I, MSA Classic, Remington SteelMaster dbl 8, MSA Super Slide dbl 8, Gold Tone 6, And other instruments and equipment I can't afford.

Donny Hinson · From: Glen Burnie, Md. U.S.A.

A steel has to be comfortable! Fortunately, levers can always be moved by a competent steel tech. If you're not up to the task, find a good tech and let him do his thing. Even if a few parts need to be made, it's not a big deal. Winking

On one of my guitars, a lever pivots on one crossrod, but activates another via a short link. It fits me perfectly, and that's the only way to go.

Brandon Mills · From: Victoria, TX. USA

Jim,

I am 6’4” and just south of 3 bills, so I feel your pain. I have my rear guitar legs and knee levers adjusted to my comfort. That is on an Emmons guitar though, which has adjustable knee levers.

Bobby D. Jones · From: West Virginia, USA

Have you ever sat down at a double neck steel body with just a front neck and pad?

A double neck body would give you about another 5 inches or so room between the pedals and the Knee Levers. This would bring the knee lever position back toward your body. At least 2 of the knee lever would have to be moved to make them comfortable and give you the space to get your knees between the levers.

There is some information on the internet and I think it came up here on the SG Forum, A story about a guy who lost part of his right leg, He plays steel and wears a hat that controls his volume by raising his head up and down.
WHERE THERE IS A WILL THEIR IS A WAY.
Good Luck finding the solution.

Jim Fogarty · From: Phila, Pa, USA

Thanks guys! Some good info.

I'd been thinking about upgrading to a D-10, so this might give me the excuse I need. Which ones have very adjustable knees........without being ridiculously heavy?

Fred Treece · From: California, USA

The RKR on the Stage One only changes one string, so that might be the least complicated lever to move. With the E lowers and raises on the left, it might make more sense to move LKL and give yourself easier access to the pedals while adding more room for your knee.

I would never say making any kind of change like this is easy or simple. It’s going to be time consuming getting the parts and it is exacting work getting stuff in the right place with the right tension on return springs. And those red hex nuts on the changer - the ones that Doug says “Do Not Adjust, Ever!” - well, you’re messing with science when you mess with those. Unless you are very confident with your mechanical ability, as well as with how the guitar will behave when you are done, I would definitely have a chat with Mr. Earnest before you begin alterations. The other thing is, just that - you are altering a guitar that wasn’t made for altering. A possible resale devaluation.

Bengt Erlandsen · From: Brekstad, NORWAY

The LKL definitly would be more comfortable if it was placed between the A and B crossshafts instead of B and C.

RKL would also be mor comfortable if moved a little further away from RKR(which seem to be at an ok position)

In order not to change any pull rods consider making a linkage that would look like the letter h

The long vertical of the h is your knee lever which links horiontally to another vertical (shorter)lever that connects to the original cross shaft. The h should move like h when linkage is working as intended.

Shouldnt be to difficult to make those few extra parts.
Hope the explanation is clear enough. If not send me a message in the mailbox.

B.Erlandsen

Zumsteel S12extE9 7+7

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