Help! Changing a string on my keyless Excel. First time.

fraser · From: seattle wa

Hi All,

I am embarrassed to admit I am a bit befuddled about how to change a string on my new Superb Excel PSG. Never did it before. Given the Superb setup and string changing instructions here - https://fuzzypsg.com/int/product.html, I have some questions and need some guidance.

Questions:

1. What is the difference between the two nuts per string on the changer end? The upper silver one obviously has the hole for the string and then there is the lower black one. When do I adjust these and what does each do? How much do you adjust them?

2. As the string in question broke, I need to get all three nuts (one at the head/tuner side and two on the changer side) back to a starting position. I have no idea how many rotations or how I would know it was in a starting position.

Here is my how I think it would be done for a new string. Please insert steps or make comments as needed, please.

1. Hook string ball end in head/tuner end of guitar where there is a slot.

2. Run string through hole on changer end and wrap several times.

3. Pull string tight (using a string puller if needed)

4. Adjust nuts on changers end (this is where I am completely clueless). Which and how much am I adjusting/tightening?

5. Fine tune string on tuner end.

I would really appreciate some help as I have been playing a 9 string for a while now and I'd like to get that back up to 10!

Thanks
Fraser

Pete Burak · From: Portland, OR USA

Fraser,
If you PM me your phone number I could call you while you are sitting at your Steel, to tell you how I do it.
You need two identical Allen wrenches for the Changer end. My Excel came with a bag of tools, and they were in there.
If you are changing the high G#, you should buy a ten-pack because you may not get it right on the first one.
As you said, turn the tuning nut on the left side so it is back to it's starting point (you can see it go up/down if you look in there from the left endplate) and put the Ball end in the slot.
Then go to the Changer end...
Loosen the side set-screw first. That is the one that allows the string to wind, and then locks it in place at the end of the procedure.
I made a little round sleeve about 3/4 of an inch long (I cut a square out of plastic from a string package... roll it up to fit over the peg, and scotch-tape it, you will use this little sleeve for every string change). This sleeve goes over the string post, to hold the string in place after you put it through the hole. I slide the sleeve over the end of the string, and then over the top half of the post, putting a right angle bend in the string so the string is pointing straight up as it exits the hole in the post. The string is now loosely attached, both ends are secured, and you can take both hands off the Steel for a moment.

Now put the other Allen wrench straight down into the center hole in the string post, wind it up (wind it over itself so it winds 3-4 turns over the part that's is pointing up), and lock it in place with the side Allen wrench. As you do the winding, the changer finger will overcome the Changer spring tension and move into line with the other strings.
The final locking step requires holding the tension with the top Allen wrench, while locking it in place with the side Allen wrench.
When doing that final locking of the set-screw, turn the upper post so the locking screw seats against a flat side of the post (the post is shaped kind of like a Stop sign, so pick a flat spot for the set-screw).

Now you can tighten/tune the string to pitch using the tuner on the left end.

I wish Mitsuo would have made it more like a Sierra Session Series Keyless. Uugh.
It would be easier with some nicer T-handle wrenches.
It gets much easier once you get the procedure worked out. The high G# is really the only one that is a pain.
Pete
Smile

K Maul · From: Hadley, NY/Hobe Sound, FL

I love my EXCEL but the process was intimidating at first. Before long it wasn’t so bad, but if this wonderful guitar has an Achilles Heel, this is certainly it. I got it going well the first string changing session and don’t recall breaking any third strings. I do have mine down in D9, though and use a .013.
_________________
KEVIN MAUL: Airline, Beard, Clinesmith, Danelectro, Evans, Fender, GFI, Gibson, Hilton, Ibanez, Justice, K+K, Live Strings, MOYO, National, Oahu, Peterson, Quilter, Rickenbacher, Sho~Bud, Supro, TC, Ultimate, VHT, Williams, X-otic, Yamaha, ZKing.

Ian Rae · From: Redditch, England

The only snag to me is finding two Allen keys the same size! Once I've conquered that I find the tension screw/lock screw arrangement quite elegant.
_________________
Make sleeping dogs tell the truth!
Homebuilt keyless U12 7x5, Excel keyless U12 8x8, Williams keyless U12 7x8, Telonics rack and 15" cabs

Pete Burak · From: Portland, OR USA

I am away from my Excel at the moment...
Maybe one of the other guys could post a few pics of how the changer-end Post looks after they change a string, or maybe a vid of the procedure?

I am in San Diego until Oct 10th, and my Excel is in Portland.
I have a friend that helps me make videos so I think I will make an instructional vid on Excel string changing when I get home in October.
I have my old Emmons S12U to play while I am here, but I miss my Excel!

Fwiw, Steve from Excel (the USA Excel rep) told me he uses a .10 for the high G#, to prevent string breakage.
I have had good luck using a .12.
I broke alot of .11's when I first got my Excel, for some reason.
Whatever gauge you settle on, I recommend keeping many spare strings on hand in your steel seat... I also keep my Excel string changing kit handy in a nice little zip case, with the two allen wrenches and my lil tube/sleeve thingee Smile

(and the other tools it came with).
Nowadays I rarely break any strings, and usually just change the high G# every few weeks, before it breaks.
Most of my string breaks occurred right in front of the bridge, near the changer.

One other thought, I know there have been several variations in the evolution of Excel Keyless over the years. It is possible some of us have a different hardware variation.
I saw one version where you tune the string with your fingers instead of a tuning wrench, which is how my Sierra Session Series Keyless works.

fraser · From: seattle wa

Huh! It sounds harder than I thought. In that case, I REALLY appreciate the help here!

Is the side set screw, the black hex nut that is lower and the center hole is the silver hex nut that is above?

This is the 1st string (G) on a C6th tuning that I broke while trying to stretch the string when I first got the guitar.

I do have Steve's #, the rep (?) and may chat with him a bit also. Pete, I have PM-ed my number to you. Really appreciate the offer. No real hurry as it has been broken for some time. If anyone has some videos, that would be huge. I do have the 2nd allen wrench from Fuzzy.

Thanks!

Fraser

fraser · From: seattle wa

I did get the string changed, finally (kind of enjoyed playing a nine string for awhile!) I was mostly being cautious as I didn't want to strip some nuts on a brand new guitar that came with minimal instruction.

The first try, I broke the string because I was watching the changer end too intently. On the head end, the string slipped into the gap between the individual heads and broke when I tried to tune it up.

After going to the store for another string, I got this one on but it kept slipping overnight. I tuned it with the fine tuner on the head end until it was played out and couldn't go any further. So I decided to re-tension it but somehow broke it while trying. As the changer side is the opposite of a fine tuner, it was too easy to accidently crank it too much above it's tuning and break it (1st string).

The third try was a success. I hadn't tightened the set screw enough last time so indeed the string was slipping. I had been warned against tightening it too much.

To add to Pete's "how to" post above:

How much slack should there be on the string before you start tuning on the changer end? I left no slack on the 1st string and got 1 1/2 winds of the string on the changer end. If you want to go with the recommended 2 1/2 winds on a plain string, you might want to include some slack on the string before you wind on the changer side. Less for the wound strings, I guess.

At what point do you stop tuning on the changer side and switch to the fine tuning on the head side? Pete suggested tuning using the changer side, up to the string below the one you are adding. Then switching to the fine tuning so that you are left with 1 1/2 steps to fine tune, depending on the string and tuning.

Now I know how to do it, it will be so much easier and faster than changing strings with keys. I did not have a battery operated winder and my fingers used to hurt after winding and unwinding a whole set.

Thanks again, Pete!!!

Thanks
Fraser

Mike Vallandigham · From: Martinez, CA

These are my two "Pro Tips" for stringing a Keyless Excel.
Qualifications? I have two. lol

1) pre-stretching the strings (at least teh small ones) will make your life much easier. I chuck up a little nail in the vice, put the ball end over that, and grasp and pull the other end with vicegrips. You can really feel the string stretch, then feel more solid. Wear safety glasses!

2) make sure there are no sharp edges or burrs INSIDE the keyhead hole where the ball end goes. If you don't pre-stretch, and you have to run the tuner way down to get it up to pitch, the angle of the tuning block can become such that a sharp edge inside the hole may contact the string, near the windings. If there are, a slight rounding with a little file is good there. Talking about the 3rd string here.

Prestretching the top 5 strings will really help.

As far as your other questions, I'll see if I can help.

-Usually, the tuning blocks at the keyhead will stop when you've reached the full returned position. All the way up is fully returned.

-If your guitar is fairly new, you lock the ball end in the keyhead (make sure it's fully seated all the way up in the notch) pull the string near tight over to the changer end, insert string end into the upright allen tuner and tighten with a wrench. When it's as tight as you can get it hold it there and lock the black allen screw below. This will lock the position of the changer end tuner.

Now tune up at the keyhead.

Believe it or not, I can get the 12th string (fat one) way higher than it needs to be without using the keyhead, just by turning the tuner post at the changer and locking it. I had to loosen it several times. The new system Mitsuo has at the changer end is really nice.

Bill McCloskey · From: Nanuet, NY

Every time I get the urge to make the switch to pedals, I read a thread like this and get shocked back into reality.

Tucker Jackson · From: Portland, Oregon, USA

Don't fear pedal steel, Bill. This thread is about a particular keyless setup that doesn't use the familiar tuning machines. Different, but apparently not too hard to deal with. Meanwhile, you already know how to put strings on a standard keyhead... and that's obviously what most PSGs have, should you ever decide to come over to the Dark Side.

Carry on.

Pete Burak · From: Portland, OR USA

Fwiw, I was told, just yesterday, that my instructional writing in regard to playing these durn things, is "Simple and directly effective".
Maybe this one... not so much!
Smile

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