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Topic: Derby steel guitars? |
Terry Sneed
From:
Arkansas,
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Posted 10 Jul 2020 6:26 pm |
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Derby players, how are Derby's for playability, pedals and knees, and how about tone. Don't believe I've heard a Derby, and have never played one thanks
Terry |
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Jerry Overstreet
From:
Louisville Ky
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Posted 11 Jul 2020 5:37 pm
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Derbys are first class guitars. Built well, easy enough to work on.
With the factory installed E66 pickups they have a crisp but full tone.
Design wise, the nearest comparison would be the Emmons LeGrande IMO.
Playability is firm and solid. Doesn't have the soft feel of a Mullen or Franklin, but the action is preferred by many. Charlie built around 500 of them, IIRC, before he passed in the mid 00's and they were played on a lot of recordings and with touring country bands.
Look up some live youtube clips of Alan Jackson with Robbie Flint on the Derby.
Here's a link to some technical info on the guitars:
https://1drv.ms/f/s%21AvvYkjDRIENZwSUmbJAUKkfy8xS7 |
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Johnie King
From:
Tennessee, USA
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Posted 11 Jul 2020 8:39 pm
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| I sent you a Pm. |
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Bill Lowe
From:
Connecticut
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Posted 11 Jul 2020 9:06 pm
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This has been around before. I’m not a big Reba fan but this is one of my favorite https://youtu.be/1bCIFeaTwwc
_________________
JCH D10, 71 D10 P/p fat back, Telonics TCA 500C--12-,Fender JBL Twin, Josh Swift signature. |
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Terry Sneed
From:
Arkansas,
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Posted 12 Jul 2020 6:36 am Derby
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| Thanks a lot guys. |
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John Sluszny
From:
Brussels, Belgium
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Posted 12 Jul 2020 10:38 am
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Terry Crisp's solo at 2:12. Wow !
Last edited by John Sluszny on 13 Jul 2020 9:15 am; edited 1 time in total |
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Larry Dering
From:
Missouri, USA
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Posted 12 Jul 2020 12:29 pm
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| Terry, I recently got a Derby SD10 3X5 and it plays as smoothly as my Mullen with a very solid feel. The tone is unbelievable as is the sustain. I am pleasantly surprised and seriously happy with it. I have found that parts to make changes are difficult to find. I wanted to add a 4th pedal, but the normal sources have no parts. |
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Steve Knight
From:
NC
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Posted 12 Jul 2020 12:33 pm
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| John Sluszny wrote: |
Terry Crisp ! Wow ! |
That was a great break! I like that she let him take a long solo and gave him the shout-out, too! |
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Terry Sneed
From:
Arkansas,
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Posted 12 Jul 2020 7:44 pm Derby
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After listening to some you tube videos of
Derby's being played I was impressed with the tone. I've heard the pedals and knees were a little stiff, but Larry Dering says his plays as good as his Mullen. And parts hard to come buy is sure not a plus. Would
you guys be hesitate to buy another Derby?
I really like the tone. 
Terry |
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Jerry Overstreet
From:
Louisville Ky
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Posted 12 Jul 2020 7:56 pm
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I don't own a Derby anymore, but I played my friend's at a show couple yrs. back. Got lots of compliments on the sound.
Just before the turn of the century, I owned and played both Derby and Mullen guitars at the same time for a few years.
I stand by my assessment concerning the pedal/knee lever feel. The Mullen guitars are definitely smoother. That's not to say there's anything wrong with the Derby...it's just a different feel...at least in my experience.
Yes, I could play a Derby again just fine. They have a definite bell chime, particularly when pushed, that's really nice.
I don't know what happened to the parts inventory. The factory is just down the road from me. There were many parts left there following Charlie's demise as he was still producing guitars on a regular basis.
Bob finished up a few guitars and they were sold, but he isn't in the best of health and isn't in a position to deal with that anymore. The family has not shown any interest in continuing servicing the brand and I wouldn't suggest trying to contact them or Bob further.
I don't know if the business/parts etc. was eventually sold to someone else or not. If so, one might think a new owner/operator would be offering parts for sale which is not the case.
It's NOMB anyway but in any case, I wouldn't count on procuring any new parts and activity here indicates there just aren't many used ones around.
Pull rods are straight with no bends and fit through a brass barrel with a set screw much like Emmons LG, GFI etc. so those could be made from stock pretty easily and perhaps bell cranks, cross shafts etc. from the other mfgs. could be used. |
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Terry Sneed
From:
Arkansas,
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Posted 13 Jul 2020 6:45 am Derby
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| Thank you Jerry. Reckon I'll pass on the Derby's . |
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Jim Cooley
From:
The 'Ville, Texas, USA
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Posted 13 Jul 2020 8:37 am
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| Well, maybe it depends...I have a Derby SD10 3X5. I own four steels. All of them play very well. My Derby's pedal amd knee lever action is as smooth as any of them, except maybe my MSA's. I have played steels made by several manufacturers. My Derby's pedals and knee kevers are smoother than most of them, including a couple of Mullens. Mine hasn't needed any parts, but copedent changes are pretty simple. If parts availability was not a concern, I wouldn't hesitate to buy another Derby. |
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Terry Sneed
From:
Arkansas,
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Posted 13 Jul 2020 12:38 pm Derby
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Yes Jim, not having available parts is why
I'll pass on the Derby. |
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Gene Tani
From:
Pac NW
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Posted 17 Jul 2020 4:39 pm
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Larry: the LLG pedal is a verry close match, the mounting screw holes miss lining up by a millimeter, different connector, a little longer but verrrrry close
_________________
- keyless Sonny Jenkins laps stay in tune forever!; Carter PSG
- The secret sauce: polyester sweatpants to buff your picks, cheapo Presonus channel strip for preamp/EQ/compress/limiter, Diet Mountain Dew
Last edited by Gene Tani on 22 Jul 2020 1:15 am; edited 1 time in total |
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Larry Dering
From:
Missouri, USA
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Posted 17 Jul 2020 5:51 pm
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| That's very close. And probably a solution for a pedal, or a set of pedals. Thanks Gene. |
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Flavio Pasquetto
From:
Austin, TX
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Posted 21 Jul 2020 8:20 am
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| Hey there! Do you know how to remove the crossshaft on my Derby? Looks there is no a side frame, the holes are into the body. Thanks for your help |
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Flavio Pasquetto
From:
Austin, TX
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Posted 21 Jul 2020 8:24 am
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Jerry Overstreet
From:
Louisville Ky
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Posted 21 Jul 2020 8:44 am
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| Jerry Overstreet wrote: |
There is a spring loaded dowel pin in one end or the other. Take a small tool like a pocket screwdriver or metal pick and see if you can push it back up inside the shaft. Alternately, drill a tiny hole just back from the end so you can use a small pick to push it back. Either way, you'll have to keep upward or sideways tension on it while you work it back up in there.
If you want to take it all the way out of the guitar, you'll have to remove the center rail.
It's a bit tedious so a splash of patience is in order. |
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