Q's re:guitar position (first-time builder, new player)

JB Bobbitt · From: California, USA

Hello all;

What is your "natural" position for playing your lap guitar with respect to your core? i.e.: in playing position (lap, console, standing), about which fret aligns with the center line of your torso?

Also, some lap guitars have the neck wider than the fret board, and extending alongside the fret board most or all of the way to the nut, on others the body slab is the same width as the fret board all the way to the join. Any insights as to your preference? Does it affect playing (do you ever rest your left hand on the neck inboard of the fret board).

Ditto for the higher fret positions above the join. Does it matter to you whether the higher fret positions (12 +) are clear of the body?

Thanks a heap,
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"Time is an enemy"
-Bob Dylan

Dom Franco · From: Beaverton, OR, 97007

Assuming that you are talking about a lap steel guitar played with a tone bar and not a (bottleneck) hollow slide:

1. The strings should not overlap the fretboard, and the neck should be wider than the fret board and much thicker than a standard guitar. We don't really need the strings to taper closer together at the nut, and the string height should be 1/4" or more. (Very high action)

2. The body does not need to have cutaways for higher fret access, since the tone bar is held down on the strings from above. Higher fret positions do not need to be clear of the body.

3. The center of the torso should normally be above the 12th fret to allow the left hand to reach all the frets without running into the players "beer belly"
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Gene Tani · From: Pac NW

I recommend getting a z stand like this and experimenting with height/lateral placement. Important to get one that doesn't impede leg movement and foot placement too much, like those x-braced ones

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Knox-Z-Style-Piano-Adjustable-Keyboard-Stand/361409990445
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Bill Groner · From: QUAKERTOWN, PA

First of all I am glad to see another guy interested in learning some new skills.

When I make a lap steel, I like to keep them in the 28.5" to 30" length range. I make the neck 2.5" wide and the fretboard 2" wide unless I put a taper on it. This will be determined by string width at the bridge and also the number of strings, like Dom posted.
The last one I built strings were .450 apart which wound up to be 2.25 wide. I tapered my fretboard to accommodate the wide spacing and the nut spacing was .350. Each side of the fretboard has approx. a 1/2 degree of taper. I like to have a little reveal of the neck showing. i have a stand, but never use it. I feel like it isolates the steel from the player. I think they should be one and having it on my lap just feels right.

I end my body at the 12th fret. It is a double visual. You have the dot makers, plus you immediately see the end of the neck, beginning of the body.

When I play the 13th fret lines up with the center of my body......that is where it feels right for me. I am sure this will vary from person to person.

Good luck with your new adventure JB. I am not an expert by any means, but if you have any questions, feel free to PM me.

If you look at the picture, the aluminum one is about an inch longer due to the fact I cut the excess off the bottom of the wood ones. I thought visually it looked nicer having the bridge as close to the end of the guitar as possible. A shorter guitar resulted, which for me was another plus. BTW when I gave you dimensions above that was for a 22.5" scale guitar.........

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Currently own, 6 Groner-tone lap steels, one 1953 Alamo Lap steel, Roland Cube, Fender Champion 40

JB Bobbitt · From: California, USA

Thanks for replies all;

At this point, my biggest problem is this: every time I see somebody's lap guitar, my concept of the build changes. But I'm having fun.

One big issue though: I'd like to have the tuning machines on the right end, behind the bridge. I'm working out the machine geometry and hardware now.

The Q: Will the tuning machines in that position affect the "acoustics" or sound at the PUP? Assuming a simple shop-built bridge (i.e.: a round metal bar mortised into a wooden bridge plate), and 5-7 deg angle for the "peg head".
_________________
"Time is an enemy"
-Bob Dylan

Bill Groner · From: QUAKERTOWN, PA

Fred · From: Amesbury, MA

I prefer to play with the instrument on my lap rather than on a stand. With my right hand flat on the strings the heel just touches the bridge. My elbow doesnâ€™t move away from my body.

Iâ€™ve never thought about the position, but thatâ€™s where several instruments land when I start playing.

Tuners behind the bridge should be easy enough to do but will probably affect tone. Everything will affect tone. Try it and see. I think I would find tuning awkward, but would be willing to try.

You might want to do a simple board with at least tuners and strings to check out the ergonomics.

Good luck!

Fred

JB Bobbitt · From: California, USA

Is this your first build? If so, that sounds pretty ambitious to stray away from the norm. (and certainly don't take this the wrong way) You know, don't re-invent the wheel kind of thing, unless I'm reading your post wrong? Don't get me wrong, I like different and experimenting.[/quote]

First lap guitar build, yes. But I'm an accomplished woodworker. And I'm having fun researching the build, from PUPs to nuts.

I've lost sensitivity and strength in my left hand. I can't fret anymore, but I can hold a steel (I drop it often so I wear an apron) and can play well enough on my acoustic reso to be encouraged. But tuning with my left hand is tedious and annoying, hence the thought to move machines to the right side.

Thx again for your help.
_________________
"Time is an enemy"
-Bob Dylan

Brian Evans · From: Nova Scotia, Canada

I might steal the tuners behind the bridge idea, maybe with fancy Steinberger tuners. I have real mobility issues with my left hand, I already tune with my right hand, just extremely awkwardly.

Bill Groner · From: QUAKERTOWN, PA

Ah, now it makes more sense to me. Thanks for the clarification. maybe this will give you some ideas???
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MsQszFzFIYU
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Currently own, 6 Groner-tone lap steels, one 1953 Alamo Lap steel, Roland Cube, Fender Champion 40

JB Bobbitt · From: California, USA

Brian Evans · From: Nova Scotia, Canada

The thing about the Steinbergers for me is that I could tune with my right hand behind the bridge, easy peasy. Another thought was a Fender style 6 on a side but with a slotted headstock so the tuner buttons stood straight up, or even on an angle. Once you dump tradition, possibilities explode!

Bill Hatcher · From: Atlanta Ga. USA

if this is your first build, i recommend that you do a mock up out of cheap wood first and then refine your design and then use the better wood for your finished guitar. i do that first and it has saved me from wasting good instrument grade wood. best to you in your build!

JB Bobbitt · From: California, USA

David Knutson · From: Cowichan Valley, Canada

If you plan to use finger/thumb picks, Steinberger tuners can be a real pain in the butt. I once borrowed a friend's 6 string Steinberger for some bottleneck and my pics were always in the way of tuning.
One of the things I love about building my own steels is the freedom to imagine and visualize the final outcome. Good luck and keep having fun with it.
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David K

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