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Topic: Fessenden return trouble |
Jean-Sebastien Gauthier
From:
Quebec, Canada
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Posted 4 Jan 2020 6:55 pm |
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Hi, I bought a very nice Fessenden and really love it but the only problem I have is some moving parts have friction and don't move properly.
Sorry I don't speak English and don't have the pedal steel parts vocabulary so its a little tough for me to describe well but the trouble I have is that the part on the photo seems to have friction with the guitar (metal on metal) and some pedal don't go back to position after being used.
For example, my B pedal if I'm too soft with it when going G# to A it don't come back to G# in tune, it stop somewhere between G# and A!
Is it something easy to fix?
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Georg Sørtun
From:
Mandal, Agder, Norway
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Posted 4 Jan 2020 7:51 pm
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I am not familiar with that brand, but … is there a "raise helper spring" (usually found close to the top-plate near the changer) for that change? If so; take that spring off to ease the return of the pedal. Do not confuse it with the lower-return springs on the bottom of the changer itself, as those springs must stay on.
Other than that cleaning the bearings at both ends of that bellcrank-axle may be necessary. May require some dismantling so you can get to it. Do not oil them, as if there are Delrin (nylon) bushings for that axle they may swell and increase friction even more. |
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Bobby D. Jones
From:
West Virginia, USA
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Posted 4 Jan 2020 11:59 pm Fessendon return trouble
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From your picture, There is a material brown and gooey looking coming from the bearing area behind the plate. I believe someone has used a Lubricant that has dried and turned to glue like consistency.
I hope to be at a friends house tomorrow who has a Fessenden Steel, I will look at it and see what you could do to address this problem. |
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George Crickmore
From:
Myrtle Beach South Carolina, USA
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Posted 5 Jan 2020 3:14 am Re: Fessendon return trouble
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| Bobby D. Jones wrote: |
From your picture, There is a material brown and gooey looking coming from the bearing area behind the plate. I believe someone has used a Lubricant that has dried and turned to glue like consistency.
I hope to be at a friends house tomorrow who has a Fessenden Steel, I will look at it and see what you could do to address this problem. |
Bobby you are correct. Get rid of that greasy lubricant and lube it with sewing machine oil. Sewing machine oil does not collect dust or anything else.
_________________
Excel S-10,2 Williams 700 Universals,Jackson Blackjack Custom,, Goodrich LDR2 & Hilton Vol pedals,Monster 3500pro power conditioner, Morgan SW100 amp & Cab |
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Jean-Sebastien Gauthier
From:
Quebec, Canada
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Posted 5 Jan 2020 3:48 am
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Its not a lube trouble. Its really that moving part, where the pedal rode is attached, its like a scissor and you can ear and feel the metal scratching, I guess they are not supposed to touch each other, I guess there supposed to be have a little space.
The pedals that work great have a little room to move and don't have that metal on metal feel.
I just don't know how to fix / adjust that. |
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Jon Light
From:
Saugerties, NY
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Posted 5 Jan 2020 5:26 am
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Grab the cross shaft and try to wiggle it side to side. If it does not have a little bit of movement between the front and the rear aprons (the body) it will bind up. This is a common condition with winter dry-air shrinkage and Fessendens. If this is, in fact, binding, wedge a screwdriver blade between the body and the flat piece and gently twist or pry. This will force the bushing in the rear apron a little deeper into the body and will create a bit of space for the shaft to move freely.
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Jack Stoner
From:
Kansas City, MO
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Jean-Sebastien Gauthier
From:
Quebec, Canada
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Posted 5 Jan 2020 5:41 am
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| Jon Light wrote: |
Grab the cross shaft and try to wiggle it side to side. If it does not have a little bit of movement between the front and the rear aprons (the body) it will bind up. This is a common condition with winter dry-air shrinkage and Fessendens. If this is, in fact, binding, wedge a screwdriver blade between the body and the flat piece and gently twist or pry. This will force the bushing in the rear apron a little deeper into the body and will create a bit of space for the shaft to move freely.
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That's exactly what I thought but was afraid to damage this great steel!
Thanks! |
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Jean-Sebastien Gauthier
From:
Quebec, Canada
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Posted 5 Jan 2020 5:42 am
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Thanks! |
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Ken Pippus
From:
Langford, BC, Canada
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Posted 5 Jan 2020 9:53 am
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Jon is exactly correct. Happened a couple winters when I had my Fessenden.
Another great guitar I wish I’d kept. |
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Dave Mudgett
From:
Central Pennsylvania and Gallatin, Tennessee
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Posted 5 Jan 2020 11:29 am
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I had the same issue Jon describes with an older Fessenden due to drying out of the cabinet when the humidity went sharply down during the winter. For me, the issue was fixed by loosening very slightly the screws on the retaining strip on the rear apron and working the intransigent cross-shafts free. This may or may not be your issue, but since it's occurring right at the time the humidity is going sharply down, I think it's probably likely.
Here's an older thread with much useful information, including input from Jerry Fessenden.
https://bb.steelguitarforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=150858
I don't know if this is a new or nearly-new guitar, but most new guitars exhibit some level of wood shrinkage in really cold, dry environments. I personally like to let guitars dry out and allow the wood to shrink over time, but it should be a very gradual process. Extreme and rapid wood shrinkage can even cause it to crack. Therefore, it may be important to humidify the guitar lightly in its case until the wood moisture content equilibrates, and Jerry recommends that in the aforementioned thread.
If you do humidify, don't overdo it. The typical in-case guitar humidifier consists of a receptacle with a sponge. Put water in the sponge and squeeze it out, put it in the case and close the case tightly - do NOT allow water to drip from the humidifier. Overly humidifying a guitar in a dry climate can cause even more problems when you pull it from the case because it can cause even more radical wood shrinkage when you pull it out of the case and expose it to the dry air. The objective is to keep extreme wood shrinkage from occurring.
Another approach is to humidify the room where the steel sits - of course, this is the only way to humidify a steel that is left out to play. I still think moderate humidification is the way to go, nothing extreme. I also dehumidify the areas where my guitars are stored in humid summer weather. Again, the goal is to prevent extreme humidity changes at any time of year, period. |
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Jean-Sebastien Gauthier
From:
Quebec, Canada
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Posted 5 Jan 2020 1:07 pm
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Thanks a lot for the infos and the responds!
It was finally very simple, those screw where just too tight, I unscrew them just a little and now everything is very smooth!
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Jean-Sebastien Gauthier
From:
Quebec, Canada
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Posted 5 Jan 2020 1:38 pm
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| In fact I can't believe how smooth is now! Every changes was a little stiff but now its perfect, just with that little adjustment! |
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Bobby D. Jones
From:
West Virginia, USA
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Posted 5 Jan 2020 6:19 pm Fessenden Return trouble.
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Bon Jour Gene. I went and Checked out my friends Fessenden this after noon and getting back to you.
Here is a picture of the cover plate on a Fesseden.
The chromed plated strip on the back of the guitar. (Toward player)is the cover over the end of the cross rods that the pedals and knee levers are attached to. This allows you to check the Lubrication, length and remove or add as required. To remove you need to remove all the screws, Then hook the strip in the metal with sharp piece of wood from the edge and bow easy till the ends come out.
There may be a burr grabbing the back of the cover strip is why loosening the screws, Solved the problem , But I would suggest finding the cause, Of a burr or long cross rod, That needs shortened a little. Then low humidity is causing the body to squeeze in and fowl the cross rod action.
Good Luck and Happy Steelin. |
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Jean-Sebastien Gauthier
From:
Quebec, Canada
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Posted 6 Jan 2020 4:18 am
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| Dave Mudgett wrote: |
I had the same issue Jon describes with an older Fessenden due to drying out of the cabinet when the humidity went sharply down during the winter. For me, the issue was fixed by loosening very slightly the screws on the retaining strip on the rear apron and working the intransigent cross-shafts free. This may or may not be your issue, but since it's occurring right at the time the humidity is going sharply down, I think it's probably likely.
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Its funny Dave I only view your post this morning! But its exactly that! Thanks a lot Dave. |
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Jean-Sebastien Gauthier
From:
Quebec, Canada
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Posted 6 Jan 2020 4:19 am Re: Fessenden Return trouble.
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| Bobby D. Jones wrote: |
Bon Jour Gene. I went and Checked out my friends Fessenden this after noon and getting back to you.
Here is a picture of the cover plate on a Fesseden.
The chromed plated strip on the back of the guitar. (Toward player)is the cover over the end of the cross rods that the pedals and knee levers are attached to. This allows you to check the Lubrication, length and remove or add as required. To remove you need to remove all the screws, Then hook the strip in the metal with sharp piece of wood from the edge and bow easy till the ends come out.
There may be a burr grabbing the back of the cover strip is why loosening the screws, Solved the problem , But I would suggest finding the cause, Of a burr or long cross rod, That needs shortened a little. Then low humidity is causing the body to squeeze in and fowl the cross rod action.
Good Luck and Happy Steelin. |
Yep simply loosing those screw works! Now it play like butter! |
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