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Topic: a bead between changer finger and nylon nut? |
Karlis Abolins
From: (near) Seattle, WA, USA
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Posted 11 Mar 2006 9:24 am
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Has anyone put a round metal or plastic bead between the changer finger and the nylon nut? I think I am going to try this to smooth the motion of the pull rod. Currently the changer finger swings at an angle and the contact point on the nylon put is the lower edge rather than the whole face of the nut.
Karlis |
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Jerry Overstreet
From: Louisville Ky
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Posted 11 Mar 2006 9:37 am
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Dunno...Sounds like a good idea though. Let us know how it works.
I'm assuming you mean a round ball like spacer between the finger and the nut? |
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Jon Light
From: Saugerties, NY
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Posted 11 Mar 2006 9:53 am
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I recall that my BMI ('80's) had these---sort of football shaped. Wasn't sure if it was for the purpose you state or just as a spacer. But I like the idea, as you present it. |
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Tom Campbell
From: Houston, Texas, USA
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Posted 11 Mar 2006 10:59 am
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Sierra had done this for years. I have two Sierras U12's and the pedal action is very smooth. I am surprised other mfg. have not followed this practice as the square surface of the nylon nut and the surface of the changer finger do not stay parallel once the pedal/lever is engaged. Using a ball spacer keeps the contact consistent all the way through the pull and permits the two surfaces to "roll" off of each other. |
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Bill Ford
From: Graniteville SC Aiken
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Posted 12 Mar 2006 11:41 am
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An 11/32"ball, with a 3/32", or 1/8" hole in it...hmmmmm.Maybe a nylon tuning nut with a rounded end. McMaster Carr has them .094 to .750 but you gotta drill your own hole size.
Bill[This message was edited by Bill Ford on 12 March 2006 at 11:46 AM.] |
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Tony Orth
From: Evansville, Indiana, USA
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Posted 12 Mar 2006 6:36 pm
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Yes, Jon, you are correct. I have an older BMI that has theses steel spacers that are round on the finger side and flat on the nylon nut side. They do ensure full contact and I don't think you can wear them out too easily.
I don't know if the newer BMI's have these. If so, they might sell them, if contacted. beckmusicalinstruments.com
Best Wishes
Tony[This message was edited by Tony Orth on 12 March 2006 at 06:37 PM.] |
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John Bechtel
From: Nashville, Tennessee, R.I.P.
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Posted 12 Mar 2006 10:04 pm
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One helpful fact that will ensure better continual contact is to make sure all the pull-rods pass straight –> through the hole in the changer. The fingers don't actually move so far as to change angle that much. A small flat~washer should be as helpful as anything in prolonging the quality of the nylon~tuner surface. Or even as little as a 1/4” sleeve. (Just long enough to cover any exposed pull-rod threads.)
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“Big John”
a.k.a. {Keoni Nui}
n.t.s.g.a. #90
’05 D–10 Derby
’65 Re-Issue Fender Twin–Reverb Custom™ 15”
Current Equipment
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Tony Glassman
From: The Great Northwest
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Posted 15 Mar 2006 12:37 am
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I built guitars at Sierra Mfg from 1974-80.
The Sierra spacers were actually cylindrical, rather than round.
The spacers were drilled out through their short axis and placed horizontally on the pull-rod between a nylon stand-off and the changer finger.
Similar principle as the bead I would expect, but easier to hold while drilling.
[This message was edited by Tony Glassman on 15 March 2006 at 12:39 AM.] [This message was edited by Tony Glassman on 15 March 2006 at 12:41 AM.] |
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