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Topic: Clean Sho~Bud textured paint? |
Mike DiAlesandro
From:
Kent, Ohio
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Posted 22 Nov 2019 10:20 am |
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I am cleaning up a Sho~Bud that has the green textured paint (on underside) on it. It’s pretty dirty, and I was wondering if Ricky Davis, or any other Sho~Bud guru can suggest the best method. From what I have tried so far, light steel wool is the only thing that has started showing signs that it might work. I don’t want to ruin the vintage quality of the guitar, so I figured I better check with a pro.
Thanks
Last edited by Mike DiAlesandro on 23 Nov 2019 4:01 am; edited 2 times in total |
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John Swain
From:
Winchester, Va
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Posted 22 Nov 2019 10:29 am
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| I'm not a Sho-Bud guru but I believe that's textured paint and would probably clean with 409 or something similar. |
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Erv Niehaus
From:
Litchfield, MN, USA
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Posted 22 Nov 2019 10:38 am
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According to Ricky Davis, Sho~Bud added a green tint to the texture paint for one year, 1973-1974. 
Erv |
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Ricky Davis
From:
Bertram, Texas USA
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Posted 22 Nov 2019 12:00 pm
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Yes do what John just said....."clean it"...as that is a texture and like Erv said....that texture had emerald green added to it; on all shobuds during that first year of the LDG...so to me; kinda a historic symbol.
Some kind of spray cleaner that has a degreasing agent in it.
I'm seeing a serial #5269; that was indeed born March 1974...first year of LDG was May 1973 to May 1974; so yes that is the green symbol of glory...ha.
Ricky
_________________
Ricky Davis
Email Ricky: sshawaiian2362@gmail.com |
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Mike DiAlesandro
From:
Kent, Ohio
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Posted 22 Nov 2019 2:25 pm
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| Ok thanks John and Erv, and Ricky for confirming the best way to go about it. I just wanted to make sure a strong cleaning agent would not activate the flocking, and smear it, or worst case remove it. Yeah, it's a '74 LDG, really nice guitar! |
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Donny Hinson
From:
Glen Burnie, Md. U.S.A.
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Posted 22 Nov 2019 3:38 pm
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| Mike DiAlesandro wrote: |
| Ok thanks John and Erv, and Ricky for confirming the best way to go about it. I just wanted to make sure a strong cleaning agent would not activate the flocking, and smear it, or worst case remove it. Yeah, it's a '74 LDG, really nice guitar! |
Just for the sake of accuracy...
"Textured paint" (what you have) is paint applied with a spray can or spray gun. It's also sometimes called "spatter paint".
"Flocking" is actually tiny fabric fibers glued to the surface. |
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Mike DiAlesandro
From:
Kent, Ohio
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Posted 22 Nov 2019 7:15 pm
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Thanks for the clarification Donny, learn something new every day!
Ricky, the serial number is actually 5239... that other photo made the 3 look like a 6.
Was it built in early 74?
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Ricky Davis
From:
Bertram, Texas USA
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Posted 22 Nov 2019 8:36 pm
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Yeah Mike still March '74>
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1974
January 4767 4958
February 4959 5129
March 5130 5306
April 5307 5417
May 5418 5677
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_________________
Ricky Davis
Email Ricky: sshawaiian2362@gmail.com |
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Bob Carlucci
From:
Candor, New York, USA
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Posted 23 Nov 2019 11:56 am
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That underside looks to me like there might be some mold that gets into the paint and actually eats away at it.. Might never get that one 100%, but if it were mine, I would do as john and ricky said,, I would get a bottle of 409 and a nylon tooth brush and some rags .. I wouldn't get much harsher that that.. You want to clean the paint, not dissolve it.. If its still looks "dirty" after its been well cleaned, the paint has been mold damaged... bob
_________________
I'm over the hill and hittin'rocks on the way down!
no gear list for me.. you don't have the time...... |
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Mike DiAlesandro
From:
Kent, Ohio
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Posted 25 Nov 2019 8:25 am
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| Bob Carlucci wrote: |
| That underside looks to me like there might be some mold that gets into the paint and actually eats away at it.. Might never get that one 100%, but if it were mine, I would do as john and ricky said,, I would get a bottle of 409 and a nylon tooth brush and some rags .. I wouldn't get much harsher that that.. You want to clean the paint, not dissolve it.. If its still looks "dirty" after its been well cleaned, the paint has been mold damaged... bob |
Bob, I think you hit the nail on the head about the mold into the paint. I tried to clean it, but it was not helping much at all. So I just used a little bit of light sanding, And some steel wool to get it where it is now. And this is a good stopping point I’m happy with the way it is. Thanks to everyone for the advice.
Before-
After-
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Ricky Davis
From:
Bertram, Texas USA
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Posted 25 Nov 2019 8:59 am
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Yes good job Mike; that look very authentic and original for a 45 year old Sho~bud...ha.
Ricky
_________________
Ricky Davis
Email Ricky: sshawaiian2362@gmail.com |
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Bob Carlucci
From:
Candor, New York, USA
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Posted 25 Nov 2019 9:16 am
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Yes there was some mold.. that steel was kept somewhere at some point in a high humidity environment.. I can tell by the paint and some of the screws and metal parts that show some pretty good oxidation. More than I normally see in a Bud. That being said, you did a real nice job, and it looks pretty good . Vintagey.
I am wondering if a coat of clear might be a good thing to make it easier to keep clean and to preserve what color is still there.. Not saying you should or should not, but maybe a few of our friends here would chime in..
Just a light overspray of good clear lacquer, to seal it up, and keep it clean??.. Or no?. If it were mine I might be tempted. What does everyone think??. bob
_________________
I'm over the hill and hittin'rocks on the way down!
no gear list for me.. you don't have the time...... |
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Mike DiAlesandro
From:
Kent, Ohio
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Posted 25 Nov 2019 11:23 am
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Thanks Ricky, I am glad you approve.
Bob, I was thinking the same thing about a clear coat, have a rattle can of nitro sitting on a shelf just waiting... but not sure if that is best either.
These parts were more user friendly...
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Bob Carlucci
From:
Candor, New York, USA
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Posted 25 Nov 2019 12:50 pm
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Clear coat will deepen the color thats there, and afford it some protection as well, as the original painted surface will be sealed up.. I see no reason why it should not be done.
However,, how about this?.. Tape off a small area that will be easy to sand , and shoot a bit of clear in one small spot, see how it looks and feels after a few days.. worse that can happen, would you would have to sand a small section down a bit if you don't like it. If it looks and feels good, simply give it a coat and let it dry well before re assembly... bob
_________________
I'm over the hill and hittin'rocks on the way down!
no gear list for me.. you don't have the time...... |
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Mike DiAlesandro
From:
Kent, Ohio
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Posted 25 Nov 2019 2:32 pm
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| Bob, Thanks, I'm going to go with your suggestion and see how things look after a few days. |
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Barry Blackwood
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Posted 26 Nov 2019 8:21 am
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IMO this begs the question, why would anyone want to do this in the first place? It offered no advantage, and was nearly impossible to clean.  |
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Ricky Davis
From:
Bertram, Texas USA
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Posted 26 Nov 2019 12:21 pm
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Barry; are you asking why Sho~bud wanted to spray-texture the underneath of all their steels from 1969 until about 1975??? David and Harry Jackson are both still alive and build and work at Jackson steels...you can easily email them and ask why they did it?? I can tell you what Duane Marrs and Paul Franklin Sr. told me; but then I would have to kill you.....ha....
Ricky
_________________
Ricky Davis
Email Ricky: sshawaiian2362@gmail.com |
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Bob Carlucci
From:
Candor, New York, USA
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Posted 26 Nov 2019 4:03 pm
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| Ricky Davis wrote: |
Barry; are you asking why Sho~bud wanted to spray-texture the underneath of all their steels from 1969 until about 1975??? David and Harry Jackson are both still alive and build and work at Jackson steels...you can easily email them and ask why they did it?? I can tell you what Duane Marrs and Paul Franklin Sr. told me; but then I would have to kill you.....ha....
Ricky |
I have always liked it myself.. I could be all wet. but putting thick flocking underneath is something thats always bugged me.. I suppose its to help keep the mechanisms quiet, but still, it bothers me.. That ugly Bud light green looks pretty cool, seals the wood, and 90% of the ones that I have seen still looked good after many decades IF the guitar was maintained nicely.. I always liked it, and never saw it as a detriment.. bob
_________________
I'm over the hill and hittin'rocks on the way down!
no gear list for me.. you don't have the time...... |
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Erv Niehaus
From:
Litchfield, MN, USA
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Posted 27 Nov 2019 8:18 am
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When rebuilding a guitar, I like the flocking.
You can cover up a multitude of sins with the flocking.
I remember one guitar I rebuilt, after I removed the old flocking it had so many toothpicks stuck in the old holes, it looked like it had been attacked by a porcupine!
Erv |
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Ricky Davis
From:
Bertram, Texas USA
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Posted 27 Nov 2019 2:05 pm
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Well to be more precise about this sho~bud and the others during that time period I spoke of. This is NOT FLOCKING....this is just a paint with a texture to it; sprayed on for eveness.
Ricky
_________________
Ricky Davis
Email Ricky: sshawaiian2362@gmail.com |
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Mike DiAlesandro
From:
Kent, Ohio
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Posted 30 Nov 2019 10:55 am
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Well I decided to put a coat of lacquer over the underside, and reassemble. I am happy with the results. Just a cleanup, not a complete redo. 
Thanks for all of the help and encouragement.
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Ricky Davis
From:
Bertram, Texas USA
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Posted 30 Nov 2019 12:05 pm
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That looks wonderful.....great work..
Ricky
_________________
Ricky Davis
Email Ricky: sshawaiian2362@gmail.com |
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Mike DiAlesandro
From:
Kent, Ohio
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Posted 30 Nov 2019 1:02 pm
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| Thanks Ricky |
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Igor Fiksman
From:
Georgia, USA
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Posted 1 Dec 2019 1:59 pm
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Mike, great work here! I have a question for you. After removing all the gunk and dirt from the steel undercarriage parts (cross shafts, two hole pullers etc), did you apply any sort of rust prevention treatment to those? I used a wire brush mounted to a grinder and it makes quick work of cleaning the parts, but it almost looked like there used to be some silver or clear paint on the original parts. Thanks
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SHO-BUD Professional SD-10 Black, SHO-BUD Pro III Custom D-10 Red, Goodrich Matchbox 6A, Steeler's Choice seat, Quilter Steelaire Amps. |
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Mike DiAlesandro
From:
Kent, Ohio
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Posted 2 Dec 2019 8:45 am
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| Igor Fiksman wrote: |
| Mike, great work here! I have a question for you. After removing all the gunk and dirt from the steel undercarriage parts (cross shafts, two hole pullers etc), did you apply any sort of rust prevention treatment to those? I used a wire brush mounted to a grinder and it makes quick work of cleaning the parts, but it almost looked like there used to be some silver or clear paint on the original parts. Thanks |
Thanks Igor for the kind words .
Basically all the 2 hole pullers, brass barrels, brass insets on the pullers, and knee levers got buffed out. The cross shafts with the welded pedal and knee levers parts were wire wheeled and and than hit with a light coat of silver rustoleum. I used all new wood screws and snap rings, and stop screws and nuts. That’s about it... and reassembled.
Mike |
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