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Author Topic:  Question for tube amp techs
Dave Zirbel


From:
Sebastopol, CA USA
Post  Posted 31 Oct 2019 5:59 pm    
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Hi folks. I’ve been playing through an old Newcomb Pathfinder E-70 PA head lately. 70 watts. It’s been modded for electric string instruments and sounds amazing. It’s powered by two 7027a tubes and pretty sure it has an SS rectifier. It also has a 6v6 tube plus 12ax7a preamp tubes.

Just curious what the 6v6 might be in there for...seems unique to me but I’m not a tech.

Thanks
Dave
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Dave Zirbel-
Sierra S-10 (Built by Ross Shafer),ZB, Fender 400 guitars, various tube and SS amps
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Eric Philippsen


From:
Central Florida USA
Post  Posted 1 Nov 2019 3:29 am    
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Off the top of my head, without looking at it or it’s schematic, it might function as a voltage regulator.
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Jack Stoner


From:
Kansas City, MO
Post  Posted 1 Nov 2019 5:17 am    
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The 6V6 is used as a power output tube, sort of a low power 6L6. Some old Fender amps used 6V6(s) for power output tubes.

Can't say what that is used for without a schematic. I can't find a schematic, but many of he Newcomb's use 6V6's as the power output tubes.
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Greg Cutshaw


From:
Corry, PA, USA
Post  Posted 1 Nov 2019 5:28 am    
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The 6V6 is a common audio output tube. However in the Newcomb amps with 7027 outputs I believe the 6V6 is used as a voltage regulator.

See posts about a very similar amp here:

https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/1950s-newcomb-pathfinder-7027-a-monoblock-amp-questions.594044/page-2

"The chassis does have a stamped number that shows to be a 6V6. According to the schematic, this is indeed a voltage regulator and does need to be in this amplifier."
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Greg Cutshaw


From:
Corry, PA, USA
Post  Posted 1 Nov 2019 5:42 am    
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Here's a picture of a Newcomb E-75 tube amp schematic showing 7027 output tubes with the 6V6 used as a voltage regulator or ballast tube:




http://www.gregcutshaw.com/Pics/Newcomb%207027%20Tube%20Amp.jpg
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Bill Sinclair


From:
Waynesboro, PA, USA
Post  Posted 1 Nov 2019 5:55 am    
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Greg Cutshaw wrote:

See posts about a very similar amp here:

https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/1950s-newcomb-pathfinder-7027-a-monoblock-amp-questions.594044/page-2


Greg,

Did you read that thread? I had to stop so my blood pressure would go back down. Whoa! I'm not sure that I have the patience that some of the helpers on that website exhibited.
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Dave Zirbel


From:
Sebastopol, CA USA
Post  Posted 1 Nov 2019 6:43 am    
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Thanks guys. Interesting stuff. This amp is really clear but warm sounding and fills the room without hurting anyone 👍now to find a good pair of 7027’s as a backup!
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Dave Zirbel-
Sierra S-10 (Built by Ross Shafer),ZB, Fender 400 guitars, various tube and SS amps
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Michael Brebes

 

From:
Northridge CA
Post  Posted 1 Nov 2019 8:50 am    
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Per that schematic, the 6V6 is used for dropping the 600VDC down to 400VDC to set up the correct grid biasing of the 7027 power tubes and to get the voltage down for use by the preamp tubes.
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Ian Worley


From:
Sacramento, CA
Post  Posted 1 Nov 2019 9:25 am    
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Dave Zirbel wrote:
...now to find a good pair of 7027’s as a backup!

This discussion on Audiokarma suggests 6L6GC is a suitable substitute for a 7027A, and easier to come by for a reasonable price: https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/1950s-newcomb-pathfinder-7027-a-monoblock-amp-questions.594044/
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Dave Zirbel


From:
Sebastopol, CA USA
Post  Posted 1 Nov 2019 9:35 am    
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Quote:
This discussion on Audiokarma suggests 6L6GC is a suitable substitute for a 7027A, and easier to come by for a reasonable price:


Yes but I think the pins (or just one pin) needs to be rewired to make them work. Yes?
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Dave Zirbel-
Sierra S-10 (Built by Ross Shafer),ZB, Fender 400 guitars, various tube and SS amps
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Greg Cutshaw


From:
Corry, PA, USA
Post  Posted 1 Nov 2019 9:46 am    
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$48 for a matched pair of JJ 7027A'S:

https://www.thetubestore.com/jj-7027a?quantity=1&custcol2=1

Tung-Sol's are about $67 a matched pair.

One of the better and more concise discussions comparing 6L6 to 7027:

http://www.triodeel.com/7027.htm
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Tim Marcus


From:
San Francisco, CA
Post  Posted 1 Nov 2019 1:41 pm    
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Thats interesting - I have seen a 6L6 voltage regulator but never a 6V6 like that.

Its dumping about 200v so that the plates of the output tubes can run at 600v and then the next stage of the power supply picks up at 400V (screen supply)

Cool!
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Dave Zirbel


From:
Sebastopol, CA USA
Post  Posted 2 Nov 2019 6:17 am    
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Well I played two gigs with this amp yesterday and it blew in the first set of the second gig🙁 back to the shop. Kinda funny because one of my musician friends came up to the stage to see what I was playing through at the exact moment it blew😂he wanted to see what that awesome sounding amp was that I was playing through
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Dave Zirbel-
Sierra S-10 (Built by Ross Shafer),ZB, Fender 400 guitars, various tube and SS amps
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Dave Zirbel


From:
Sebastopol, CA USA
Post  Posted 2 Nov 2019 12:47 pm    
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Blown fuse...easy fix👍
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Dave Zirbel-
Sierra S-10 (Built by Ross Shafer),ZB, Fender 400 guitars, various tube and SS amps
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Len Amaral

 

From:
Rehoboth,MA 02769
Post  Posted 2 Nov 2019 1:22 pm    
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Greg, you are a wealth of technical information. Bravo!
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Stephen Cowell


From:
Round Rock, Texas, USA
Post  Posted 9 Nov 2019 4:24 pm    
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Dave Zirbel wrote:
Blown fuse...easy fix👍


Blown fuses normally indicate other problems... keep a close watch on the 7027's, if they get red hot ('cherry up') you'll need to have them biased (changing a resistor on this amp). Nice amp, good luck.
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Dave Zirbel


From:
Sebastopol, CA USA
Post  Posted 10 Nov 2019 7:47 am    
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Quote:
Blown fuses normally indicate other problems...


Yes. The tubes really don't run abnormally hot. When the fuse blew my friend who was there said his '64 Deluxe blew in "that same corner" of the stage. It's a 100 year old building and sounds like the wiring and power might be sketchy. Also when I replaced the fuse it had a 5 amp fuse when the schematic called for a 3 amp fuse.....would that cause it to blow?

I drove it hard yesterday at an outdoor gig and use my Furman power conditioner/surge protector....no problems and sounded great.

As long as I'm using "antique" gear I'll be bringing backup!

Thanks everyone for the input!


dave
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Dave Zirbel-
Sierra S-10 (Built by Ross Shafer),ZB, Fender 400 guitars, various tube and SS amps
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Steve Waltz

 

From:
USA
Post  Posted 12 Nov 2019 9:28 am    
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Dave, I think the use of a higher rated fuse is a bad idea as it might not blow when it should and might hurt other parts. The 5 amp fuse could have been been used because something was blowing the proper fuse. It's likely that something isn't right in your amp.

I'm not sure the replace only what shows obvious signs of an issue method of a local repair guy is the best method for someone that needs a very reliable amp? It's a bit of a drive to get it repaired every time something goes wrong when some of those parts could be replaced before an issue, considering the age.

My limited experience makes me think tone is in the circuit not some mojo of old resistors and capacitors.
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Dave Zirbel


From:
Sebastopol, CA USA
Post  Posted 12 Nov 2019 9:38 am    
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Hi Steve. What I was saying is the fuse that blew was not the one the schematic called for. I put in the proper fuse.

Not sure where the mojo comes from either but this thing sounds great, and I'm not the only one that thinks so! Smile

I played it hard last weekend for two hours outdoors with no mic on the amp....no problems, but I will continue bring backup.

Where are you hiding out? Haven't seen you forever!

Dave
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Dave Zirbel-
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Dave Mudgett


From:
Central Pennsylvania and Gallatin, Tennessee
Post  Posted 12 Nov 2019 10:13 am    
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Unless there was something wrong with the 5A fuse, putting it in place of a 3A fuse would not cause it to blow. Quite the contrary, putting in a 5A fuse could cause it not to blow when it should. I see this a lot on other peoples' amps - someone will have a problem with the correct-rating fuse blowing and install a higher-rating fuse. This is a recipe for disaster, and a tip when buying an amp that there is a problem.

There could be something besides a red-plating tube causing a fuse to blow. So many possibilities. Unless you're handy with tube amps, I'd get it to someone to check it out. Cool amp. I love old tube Hi-Fi and PA amps.
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Dave Zirbel


From:
Sebastopol, CA USA
Post  Posted 12 Nov 2019 10:32 am    
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Quote:
There could be something besides a red-plating tube causing a fuse to blow. So many possibilities.


Earlier in this thread I said that my friend who there when it blew said his '64 Deluxe blew in the exact same corner of the stage I was on.....could it be the fact that the building is 100 years old with a sketchy power source?
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Dave Zirbel-
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Dave Mudgett


From:
Central Pennsylvania and Gallatin, Tennessee
Post  Posted 12 Nov 2019 10:50 am    
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Certainly possible that bad power could cause an amp to blow. That's why I use the Furman AR-1215 voltage regulator I discussed on your other thread about power conditioners.

But I wouldn't assume that's the issue. Unless it's been gone over recently by someone you trust, I think a 60-year old tube amp is definitely due for a service check. Wink
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Dave Zirbel


From:
Sebastopol, CA USA
Post  Posted 12 Nov 2019 10:59 am    
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Quote:
Unless it's been gone over recently by someone you trust, I think a 60-year old tube amp is definitely due for a service check. Wink


Yeah probably wouldn't hurt. I believe this rig was set up and modded for guitar about 10-15 years ago. It blew once in my basement and my friend that works for Mesa Boogie said he replaced a few resisters and a preamp tube.....the old fuse that I replaced looked ancient...the tech that set it up moved a little farther away but it may be time to do a tune up!

Thanks guys
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Dave Zirbel-
Sierra S-10 (Built by Ross Shafer),ZB, Fender 400 guitars, various tube and SS amps
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Steve Waltz

 

From:
USA
Post  Posted 12 Nov 2019 11:00 am    
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Dave,

I was splitting guitar work with the Alcatraz Islanders and that kept me busy enough but that weekly gig ended and I've been busy with non music stuff.

I believe in amp Mojo. So I'm sure yours has that. My mid 50's Sano has it, had it, and still has it even after a ton of parts were replaced. Because I replaced so many parts, I think it's as reliable as a new amp and the overall tone didn't change. I've just seen a few local amps that were worked on and the original caps were still in it from the 50's when those could be replaced at no cost to mojo and only add reliability.... In my opinion.

You might want to check the multi section can capacitor. The 10/35/10/40. Someone might have put new single ones under the chassis. At least those would be new. If they aren't there and the cap is old, that would be a good thing to replace. You can get something like the original at around $40 for parts or mount under for cheaper.
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Dave Zirbel


From:
Sebastopol, CA USA
Post  Posted 16 Nov 2019 12:19 pm    
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Well go ahead and say “I told you so!”🙄 The amp blew again even with my
power conditioner at a legit venue. Back to the shop. Good thing I carry backup!

Thanks everyone 🙏
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Dave Zirbel-
Sierra S-10 (Built by Ross Shafer),ZB, Fender 400 guitars, various tube and SS amps
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