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Topic: How Much to re mica My D10 |
Gary Guzzardo
From:
Florida, USA
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Posted 21 Jun 2019 3:29 am |
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| I would Like to re mica My Emmons D10, Need an Idea On cost .. |
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Gary Guzzardo
From:
Florida, USA
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Posted 21 Jun 2019 4:45 pm
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| NO IDEAS NOBODY KNOWS |
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Donny Hinson
From:
Glen Burnie, Md. U.S.A.
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Posted 21 Jun 2019 6:59 pm
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| I asked a cabinet shop about re-doing my old D10 MSA, and they said "around $150". But that was over 10 years ago. (I imagine it would be more now.) The old 'mica MSA guitars had wood necks, so that estimate was for the cabinet and both necks. |
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Gary Guzzardo
From:
Florida, USA
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Posted 22 Jun 2019 3:54 am
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| Thanks |
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forrest klott
From:
Grand Rapids Mi USA
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Posted 22 Jun 2019 4:29 am
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| I would contact Mike Skaggs or Billy Knowles, both of whom are members. |
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Bobby D. Jones
From:
West Virginia, USA
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Posted 22 Jun 2019 11:48 am How Much to remica my D10
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You would need someone who has done Formica work and works on steel guitars too.
The guitar will have to be stripped to the bare body for Formica work. Once it has it new cover it will have to have everything put back and adjusted perfect till it will tune and play proper.
If the guitar is old and been played a lot, I would wonder what shape the parts are in. Would new parts still be made and available. If the guitar has no sentimental value, You may want to compare the work to just buying a new guitar in actual cost.
Gook Luck in this venture. |
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Erv Niehaus
From:
Litchfield, MN, USA
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Posted 23 Jun 2019 6:10 am
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I bought a black Excel some years ago and changed the mica to white.
On an Excel, this was fairly easy due to their construction.
I wouldn't want to attempt it on a regular pedal steel, though. 
Erv |
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Lee Warren
From:
Nashville, Tennessee, USA
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Posted 23 Jun 2019 6:28 am
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Hi Gary,
Have you considered a vinyl wrap, rather than replacing the mica?
If you just want a cosmetic change, that would probably be way cheaper.
I believe some forum members have done this with great results.
Lee |
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Richard Sinkler
From:
aka: Rusty Strings -- Missoula, Montana
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Posted 23 Jun 2019 9:38 am
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| Lee Warren wrote: |
Hi Gary,
Have you considered a vinyl wrap, rather than replacing the mica?
If you just want a cosmetic change, that would probably be way cheaper.
I believe some forum members have done this with great results.
Lee |
Dennis Montgomery did the vinyl wrap. I think the same amount of guitar disassembly would apply to both the wrap or mica.
_________________
Carter D10 8p/8k, Dekley S10 3p/4k C6 setup,Regal RD40 Dobro, Recording King Professional Dobro, NV400, NV112,Ibanez Gio guitar, Epiphone SG Special (open D slide guitar) . Playing for 54 years and still counting. |
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Dennis Montgomery
From:
Western Washington
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Posted 23 Jun 2019 3:17 pm
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| Richard Sinkler wrote: |
| Lee Warren wrote: |
Hi Gary,
Have you considered a vinyl wrap, rather than replacing the mica?
If you just want a cosmetic change, that would probably be way cheaper.
I believe some forum members have done this with great results.
Lee |
Dennis Montgomery did the vinyl wrap. I think the same amount of guitar disassembly would apply to both the wrap or mica. |
I've never done a mica replacement, but I'm about to begin my 2nd vinyl wrap and here's what I've learned.
I absolutely had to strip all the hardware off the top surface. All of it...neck, changer, fretboard, tuning tree, switches, etc. This of course meant I had to remove all the tuning rods and return/helper springs so I could get the changer off. For the upcoming BMI vinyl wrap I also have to remove the pickup wiring from the tone control switch as there's no way to drop the pickup through the body like on the Mullen.
I've read a thread or two about people "working around" the neck or changer and leaving them in place, but I can't see a way to do that and complete a high quality job with a vinyl wrap. Definitely not with the thick, high gloss snowboard wrap I use. You simply must have a flat surface to successfully pull the vinyl tight when laying it so you can eliminate bubbles or creases. Pulling the snowboard vinyl tight is also how you activate the adhesive underneath, it's not like contact paper where you just cut to size and push it down, or some vinyl wrap where you shrink to fit with a heat gun...you have to stretch it to size. Cutting the vinyl around anything that pokes up on the top surface would make pulling it tight nearly impossible, and mistakenly tearing it and wasting your money highly probable...and at about $80 per sheet of vinyl wrap, that's nothing to sneeze at 
Another issue with trying to work around the neck/changer with vinyl is you'd have to apply up the body onto the neck/changer then perfectly cut the edges with an X-acto or razor blade without cutting/scratching the chrome/mica underneath. It can be done with some types of heat gun activated vinyl (maybe that 3M 1080 stuff, but not the snowboard strength vinyl I use) but expect to ruin a lot of vinyl practicing...and all it takes is one slip to put a permanent scratch on your original surface. I think it's just easier to pull all the hardware and not have to worry about ruining the finish underneath.
As far as mica goes, I can see the possibility of replacing it by working around the neck and changer depending on the design of the pedal steel. Even still, the tuning tree has to come off...no way you'll match those curves. I can see making a template out of heavy paper that follows the angles of the neck/changer outline. But then you have to cut the mica to the pattern incredibly accurately - not a simple thing I'm told - especially if you have to cut multiple angles or curves on the same line 
For reference: here's the thread where I documented the Mullen vinyl wrap project:
https://bb.steelguitarforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=344361
_________________
Hear my latest album, "Celestial" featuring a combination of Mullen SD12 and Synthesizers:
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https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLfXm8aXRTFz2f0JOyiXpZyzNrvnJObliA |
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