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Post new topic End Casting deep oxidation removal.
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Author Topic:  End Casting deep oxidation removal.
Joseph Myers

 

From:
North Carolina, USA
Post  Posted 9 Jun 2019 7:34 am    
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Hello,


I have searched the threads here about this problem and I have used Mothers aluminum polish on these ends. There are a few spots that are just stained from the heavy oxidation. They're shining up well but I can't seem to get these spots removed. What's it take, or are these just going to stay?

joe




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Brian Hollands


From:
Geneva, FL USA
Post  Posted 9 Jun 2019 7:50 am    
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If they're aluminum, wet sanding up through 2000 grit followed by buffing. If they're chrome, re-chrome them.
Here's a before and after of the ends of a Derby I cleaned up. I think I started with 400 grit but maybe 600 then went up through 2000 and buffed with red rouge then white rouge on a wheel...

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Joseph Myers

 

From:
North Carolina, USA
Post  Posted 9 Jun 2019 9:05 am    
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That looks darned good. I figured I was going to have to sand them which makes me a bit uneasy but if this is what it may get me, I will probably do so. I do know elbow grease aint doin it..

joe
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Hal Braun


From:
Eustis, Florida, USA
Post  Posted 9 Jun 2019 5:12 pm    
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I always try simichrome paste before breaking out the sand paper.. you never know and it doesn’t hurt anything..




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Erv Niehaus


From:
Litchfield, MN, USA
Post  Posted 10 Jun 2019 6:53 am    
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To do a really good job you need one of these:

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Jerry Overstreet


From:
Louisville Ky
Post  Posted 10 Jun 2019 9:21 am    
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You're wasting your time trying to polish those pits out of the aluminum. Semi-chrome, Mothers, none of that stuff will cut deep enough to help.

If you're brave enough, you can try sanding the plates out smooth and once done, go through the series of buffing rouges and you might be satisfied. Sometimes, the faults are way down deep in the casting .

If you're serious about getting a mirror finish, remove the endplates from the guitar and have a professional sanding and polishing job done, but that may require some major disassembly, particularly for the right end plate.
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Charley Bond


From:
Inola, OK, USA
Post  Posted 10 Jun 2019 12:55 pm     Chrome plating aluminum
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You can send to the plates to a chrome shop & get them plated. You can send them to a custom shop & they make sure every last pit has some copper filling, is sanded & chrome plated to look like a jewel...
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Joseph Myers

 

From:
North Carolina, USA
Post  Posted 10 Jun 2019 4:12 pm    
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Thanks for all the replies. I have decided, for now, to let her be as she is. When I gat to doing a complete teardown and overall ( if I do), I will address the endplates then.
For now I have this old Marlen up and going. And it sounds so good. Still working on the 4th string raise/lower tuning as well as the C pedal tuning. I'm about halfway there. Getting better everyday.

best,

joe
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Jerry Overstreet


From:
Louisville Ky
Post  Posted 10 Jun 2019 4:20 pm    
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Enjoy Joe. Those old Marlen guitars have an incredible tone. You're a lucky duck to have one of them.

I understand where you're coming from wanting to polish it up though. Nothing wrong with that when you get to it.
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Joseph Myers

 

From:
North Carolina, USA
Post  Posted 10 Jun 2019 4:47 pm    
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Thanks...here's a pic...I couldn't resist
It sounds quite nice through my Jim Kelley FACS amp

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Bob Carlucci

 

From:
Candor, New York, USA
Post  Posted 10 Jun 2019 6:24 pm    
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Joseph Myers wrote:
Thanks for all the replies. I have decided, for now, to let her be as she is. When I gat to doing a complete teardown and overall ( if I do), I will address the endplates then.
For now I have this old Marlen up and going. And it sounds so good. Still working on the 4th string raise/lower tuning as well as the C pedal tuning. I'm about halfway there. Getting better everyday.

best,

joe



I had a LOT of problems trying to set up my Marlen C pedal/4th string lower lever.. The factory rods are too thick, and cause binding in the holes on the pull release changer finger...If you have trouble getting that 4th string correct on ALL changes, change all the rods in that finger to thinner ones.. I have 3 rods , E-F# on C pedal-E-F on a lever, and of course E-Eb on a lever.. Once I went to thinner rods, ALL tuning issues on that string were resolved forever,, The thick rods were causing binding, deflection and false pulls, causing issues that were beyond comprehension.. Until I got a good look at what was going on under there... bob
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Mike Scaggs


From:
Nashville, TN
Post  Posted 11 Jun 2019 4:25 am    
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Call Doug Moss at Bud's Polishing, he is the very best. 615-513-9238
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Joseph Myers

 

From:
North Carolina, USA
Post  Posted 13 Jun 2019 12:16 pm    
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I am not sure yet if these rods are to thick but I am looking into it now.

Just a bear of a time on this 4th string.

I have tried all sorts of balancing the finger but just cant get it right.
My RKR lowers 4/8, my RKL raises 4/8 , and the C pedal raises 4.
So I also have 3 rods in the finger. They seem loose enough as they will spin around.

As well, I have no nylon adjusters

I will say A and B work super and feel great. I have the RKR 1/2 step lowers working, but the C pedal and the RKL raises not.

I have read every thread on pull release tuning but just can't get this yet.

joe
I had a LOT of problems trying to set up my Marlen C pedal/4th string lower lever.. The factory rods are too thick, and cause binding in the holes on the pull release changer finger...If you have trouble getting that 4th string correct on ALL changes, change all the rods in that finger to thinner ones.. I have 3 rods , E-F# on C pedal-E-F on a lever, and of course E-Eb on a lever.. Once I went to thinner rods, ALL tuning issues on that string were resolved forever,, The thick rods were causing binding, deflection and false pulls, causing issues that were beyond comprehension.. Until I got a good look at what was going on under there... bob[/quote]
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John Billings


From:
Ohio, USA
Post  Posted 13 Jun 2019 5:55 pm    
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California Custom has what you need. Oxidation remover, and also great Polish.
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