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Topic: Stiff pedals. |
Larry Ray Miller
From:
Elizabethton, Tennessee, USA
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Posted 11 Jun 2019 5:20 pm |
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My a,b and c pedals ar a little stiff. To soften them up a little without increasing the travel too much should I move the rods up one hole on the changer, or belcranks? Thanks foe any help.
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MSA Classic,Rustler Eldorado,Nashville 112, Session 500, Gretch, Ovation. |
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Charley Bond
From:
Inola, OK, USA
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Posted 12 Jun 2019 1:31 pm Pictures are worth a lot of words
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If you would send some pictures.... with your questions, It would make answering a great deal easier.
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Steel Guitar players are members of a Special Family |
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Ian Rae
From:
Redditch, England
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Posted 12 Jun 2019 2:41 pm
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Larry, do you mean stiff (as in too much friction) or heavy (because of the way the mechanism is configured)?
I would make sure everything is lubed and moving freely before changing anything around.
_________________
Make sleeping dogs tell the truth!
Homebuilt keyless U12 7x5, Excel keyless U12 8x8, Williams keyless U12 7x8, Telonics rack and 15" cabs |
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Larry Ray Miller
From:
Elizabethton, Tennessee, USA
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Posted 13 Jun 2019 6:08 am Stiff pedals
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Everything is lubed. The pedals are factory setup, but they are harder to push than I like. This is a 2012 Russler guitar. I think that i need to move the pull rods one hole closer to the body of the guitar on the bellcranks, but I am not sure.
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MSA Classic,Rustler Eldorado,Nashville 112, Session 500, Gretch, Ovation. |
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Ian Rae
From:
Redditch, England
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Posted 13 Jun 2019 6:31 am
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There's no reason I can see not to try that and see if you prefer it.
_________________
Make sleeping dogs tell the truth!
Homebuilt keyless U12 7x5, Excel keyless U12 8x8, Williams keyless U12 7x8, Telonics rack and 15" cabs |
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Brian Hollands
From:
Geneva, FL USA
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Posted 13 Jun 2019 6:49 am
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Depends on which rods you're talking about. The rods between the bell cranks and the changer can't just be moved on the bell crank - it'll change length of the pull so it won't be in tune anymore. You'd have to move it at the changer end as well and thus re-time everything.
If you're talking about moving the pedal rods, that can be done without altering the pulls. Moving the pedal rod further from the bell crank will increase the length of pedal travel but decrease effort. If you can move the ball stud on the pedal itself (some have two holes to put the stud in) the one closer to the pedal axle will also decrease resistance but will increase travel. You may have to shorten up the rods if you do that.
The other option is to install springs (likely the ones on the cross-shafts) that are less stiff.
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'81 Sho-bud LDG, 2 EMCI's |
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Mike Mantey
From:
Eastern Colorado, USA
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Posted 13 Jun 2019 7:25 am
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| You can move the rod a hole closer to the guitar body, it will require more travel, but will soften the pedals. Best is to try one pedal and see if it is what you want. |
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Tony Glassman
From:
The Great Northwest
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Posted 13 Jun 2019 7:28 am
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If you’re moving raise or lower pull, rods be aware that at the changer fingers: holes that are further from the changer axle will result in easier but longer effort. Just the opposite is true at the bell crank.
If you change either, you will likely need to lengthen the pedal/knee lever travel stops to accommodate the longer, easier change.
Do Russler guitars have raise assist springs? If so it might be a simple adjustment to yield easier pulls but that can be tricky to do. Too much assist spring tension can affect lowers and open tuning. |
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J R Rose
From:
Keota, Oklahoma, USA
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Posted 13 Jun 2019 7:08 pm
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Larry, I sent you a personal e-mail today. And Tony just explained rod connection well. Rods in holes close to changer axle makes it harder. Rods in holes of bell cranks closer to cross rod makes it easier. J.R.
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NOTHING..Sold it all. J.R. Rose |
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