Cleaning changer

Eddie Freeman · From: Natchez Mississippi

I recently got an old Pro 111 from an estate that looks as though it never had any TLC. The dirt and oily dried up greese was on every thing, so I guess the changer is the same. My question is has any one cleaned the changer with out removing the changer. Maurice Anderson once told me to use something like carb cleaner and pour it down the changer making sure to keep the finish covered. I realize this is not the ideal way, but don't think I am able to dismantle all those springs etc with these old hands of mine. Any come back on this? Thanks..

Donny Hinson · From: Glen Burnie, Md. U.S.A.

You'll get all kinds of answers on this. Some will say that to tear it down is the only way to get it really clean (which I agree with). Some will say you can flush it out with naptha and then re-lube it to get a decent job, but that MUST be done outdoors. The last alternative, and probably the best one if it's still operating okay...is to leave it alone. Just add a little oil or lube of your choice, wipe off the topside, and go on playing.

By the way...I would NEVER use carburetor cleaner on an assembled guitar.

Johnie King · From: Tennessee, USA

I deasemble changer an use a can of spray oven cleaner spray let it set for a couple minutes spray parts with garden hose done. Caution this stuff is Toxic I use it out side.
A bud pro 3 changer is a simple design unless the fingers are froze up on axel I would think A little lighter fluid or nafta would work fine with out all the work of removing changer.
You can take the axel out of a Pro 3 an clean an oil with out removing fingers I guess that’s obvious. Good luck

Dave Campbell · From: Nova Scotia, Canada

i say bite the bullet and tear it down. it's a project that can be done in a weekend and will almost certainly make your guitar play better, sound better, and be worth more money. you'll also get that cool 'i did it myself' feeling.

Dave Mudgett · From: Central Pennsylvania and Gallatin, Tennessee

Don't pour carb cleaner on the changer in the assembled guitar.

If the changer is really gunked up, I think probably the only way to really get it right is for someone to tear it down and remove the changer, pull rods, and other mechanics and clean it with a serious solvent like a carb cleaner. Gunk, PB Blaster, and various others I've used - this stuff is nasty, and the fact that it will dissolve hardened-on scooge on the changer means it will dissolve your finish too. If you do tear it down, definitely do any cleaning with this stuff outside, and even at that, some type of respirator is appropriate. Again, this stuff is real toxic.

You could try naptha with the changer in place - this has been safe with any lacquer finish I've ever used it on, which is a lot of guitars and steels. I haven't had much luck with naptha on really hardened crusted up stuff, but it might be worth a try. Even naptha is a job for outside, but it's not as bad as the typical carb cleaner type solvents.

Eddie Freeman · From: Natchez Mississippi

Thanks guys, I may try cleaner first. If that doesn't improve pedal action I'll bite the bullet and tear her down, again thanks.

Richard Tipple · From: Ohio, USA

Lets face it,,there is no way to clean a changer 100% while it is assembled. I have tore down and cleaned many changers. First things first,,,make a rodding chart of your pullers,,,you will be glad you did upon re-assembly. Next,,if this is your first try at this,,take a few Pics. as you go along so when you re-assemble this bad boy, there is no doubt to where every thing goes. Next have all the right tools before you begin, allen wrenches Etc. I use a good carb cleaner to spray down each piece, then wipe with a cloth. As I re-assemble each piece ,,I lube each piece,,In between pullers Etc. I use ,,Tri- Flow only ! And last,,be sure you keep all, screws ,bolts & parts Etc.in something like a plastic baggie, when you dis-assemble the changer,,,this way you know you have all the parts and pieces. Smile

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steelguitarguy.com

Bobby D. Jones · From: West Virginia, USA

Naptha (Cigarette Lighter Fluid) is safe for most cleaning. Stay away from Brake Cleaner. It will melt some lacquers. Stay away from Oven Cleaners. Most Oven Cleaners have Caustic Soda as a base. It will eat Aluminum and make junk out of it. Don't use Dishwasher Jell or Powder (Caustic Soda Base) either, It will eat aluminum and some stainless steel knives very bad.
Better to be safe than sorry.

Marc Jenkins · From: Victoria, British Columbia, Canada

My Sho~Bud came to me in similar condition years ago. I was living in a small apartment, and wasn’t keen on all the harsh and environmentally-damaging chemicals typically recommended. So I tried an orange-peel-based degreaser, and it worked incredibly well, faster and better than the naphtha I had used previously.

And yes, I took it apart fully. You’ll learn a lot!

Alan Bidmade · From: Newcastle upon Tyne UK

Naptha (lighter fluid) worked a treat on an old Bud.
I taped a box of kleenex tissues underneath the changer to capture the fluid (and all the gunk, aluminium flakes etc.) waggled levers and pedals to get it all stirred up.
Took less than an hour, re-lubed with PTFE

and bingo - much improved playability. I cleaned the roller nut and rollers as well, again with a big improvement in tuning stability. Watch out if the rollers are gauged - put them on a piece of paper marked 1 - 10, so you put them back in the right order, re-lube...

And if I can do this, anyone can! I get a nosebleed if I see a screwdriver Rolling Eyes

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Ben-Rom #017 'Lorelei', Guild D25, Epiphone 'Joe Pass', Roland 40XL, Hilton VP

First name Alan, but known as Nick

Tony Prior · From: Charlotte NC

tear it down, it's not a huge task. You get to inspect the rivets at the same time, then polish , then lightly lube each finger. Clean, polish and lube the bell cranks as well.

The instrument is over 40 years old, bringing it back to "just about new" is well worth it.

_________________
Emmons L-II , Fender Telecasters, B-Benders , Eastman Mandolin ,
Pro Tools 12 on WIN 7 !
jobless- but not homeless- now retired 9 years

CURRENT MUSIC TRACKS AT > https://tprior2241.wixsite.com/website

Dennis Detweiler · From: Solon, Iowa, US

I agree with tearing it down. I did it to my 76 MSA and it plays much better and better tone and sustain. I couldn't believe how thick and black the old oil was between the scissors and axle. Mark the rod placements or make a schematic to avoid guesswork and speed reassembly.
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1976 Birdseye U-12 MSA with Telonics 427 pickup, 1975 Birdseye U-12 MSA with Telonics X-12 pickup, Revelation preamp, Carbon Copy Delay and Hall Of Fame Reverb, Crown XLS 1002, 2- 15" Eminence Wheelhouse speakers, ShoBud Pedal, Effects Pedals. 1949 Epiphone D-8.

Johnie King · From: Tennessee, USA

Bobby I’ve been use ing oven cleaner for years on changer parts an never had a problem maybe I’ve Been lucky
I know it’s the fastest working degreaser an funk remover I’ve found.
Spray it on wait a couple minutes an use garden hose sprayer with good water pressure
Dry off and use oil of your choice.

Johnie King · From: Tennessee, USA

Bobby I’ve been use ing oven cleaner for years on changer parts an never had a problem maybe I’ve Been lucky
I know it’s the fastest working degreaser an funk remover I’ve found.
Spray it on wait a couple minutes an use garden hose sprayer with good water pressure
Dry off and use oil of your choice.

Tony Prior · From: Charlotte NC

The changer fingers and bell crank "swivels" are the heart of this Steel. Much like restoring a vintage car, we don't just add or change the oil.
_________________
Emmons L-II , Fender Telecasters, B-Benders , Eastman Mandolin ,
Pro Tools 12 on WIN 7 !
jobless- but not homeless- now retired 9 years

CURRENT MUSIC TRACKS AT > https://tprior2241.wixsite.com/website

Bobby D. Jones · From: West Virginia, USA

Johnie you may be lucky with some of the lubes protecting the aluminum from damage. Like old WD-40.

I worked in a Westinghouse Sealed beam factory. At Lunch time we removed the stainless steel liners from the Alumnizer. We put the liners in a heated vat of Water and Caustic Soda, The vat bubbled and foamed and removed all aluminum spray from the liners. Heat dried them and replaced liners ready to resume production. Better safe than sorry.
Yes Caustic Soda is bad for your lungs. The vat with Caustic Soda had a hood over the vat and a powerful fan to remove fumes. Take bad chemicals outdoors to use.

Rick Contino · From: Brattleboro, Vermont

Sorry for the side note, but ...You guys just spray and hose off really toxic stuff in your yards!?!?
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Shobud "The Professional" D-10, Stage One S-10, National "New Yorker," NV400

Dennis Detweiler · From: Solon, Iowa, US

A friend of mine is very conscious of toxic waste around his house, but has his lawn sprayed for weeds on a regular basis while robins pull worms out of his grass afterwards.

After removing my changer, I soak the parts in gasoline and finish it off with carb cleaner. Carb cleaner evaporates quickly.
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1976 Birdseye U-12 MSA with Telonics 427 pickup, 1975 Birdseye U-12 MSA with Telonics X-12 pickup, Revelation preamp, Carbon Copy Delay and Hall Of Fame Reverb, Crown XLS 1002, 2- 15" Eminence Wheelhouse speakers, ShoBud Pedal, Effects Pedals. 1949 Epiphone D-8.

Mark McCornack · From: California, USA

From my own first hand experiance in recently cleaning up my old Pro~I, go for a teardown!
I was very apprehensive at first when I finaly bit the bullet and did this to mine, but if you take your time, keep track of your parts, and maybe take a few cell-phone pictures along the way, you will be just fine. Plus, you can really get in there and clean it well. You won’t need much more than soapy water and your wife’s best toothbrush for 99% of the job. I used a lttle naptha on some bits, but having it dissasembled allows you to clean everything quite well without getting into any exotic and toxic chemistry.
Good luck! You will be happy you took the time to do this. As I said, cell phone photo documentation along the way is not a bad idea.
Cheers,
Mark Smile

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