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Topic: CRC to clean changer |
Ron Mishler
From:
Michigan, USA
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Posted 23 Aug 2018 12:04 pm |
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| Anybody use CRC to clean their changers? Thanks[/b] |
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Donny Hinson
From:
Glen Burnie, Md. U.S.A.
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Posted 23 Aug 2018 2:35 pm
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CRC what? They make hundreds of products; solvents, degreasers, cleaners, lubes, reducers, penetrants, thinners, etc. We need to know which one you're thinking about using.  |
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Ron Mishler
From:
Michigan, USA
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Posted 23 Aug 2018 5:25 pm CRC to clean changer
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Lectric-Motive
Degreaser
Removes Oil and Dirt
No Residue or Stains |
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Ron Mishler
From:
Michigan, USA
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Posted 23 Aug 2018 5:27 pm CRC to clean changer
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| Don't remember if I used lighter fluid or CRC.... |
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Ron Mishler
From:
Michigan, USA
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Posted 23 Aug 2018 5:57 pm CRC to clean changer
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| Thanks Donny I will just use lighter fluid....The End |
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Donny Hinson
From:
Glen Burnie, Md. U.S.A.
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Posted 23 Aug 2018 6:43 pm
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Naptha works pretty good, but it's a health hazard and highly flammable. Use caution...safety glasses and gloves, and DON'T do your cleaning indoors!
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The CRC stuff, "Lectro-Motive 05018" is very hazardous, and can cause serious organ damage if you're exposed to the fumes or liquid.
Read here:
http://docs.crcindustries.com/msds/5018.pdf
Last edited by Donny Hinson on 23 Aug 2018 6:54 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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Jim Sliff
From:
Lawndale California, USA
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Posted 23 Aug 2018 6:45 pm
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Lighter fluid, meaning the Ronson type - NOT charcoal lighter! I only know of one "clean" charcoal fluid so I won't go there.
Ronson lighter fluid in simply naphtha with a small amount of colorant and benign fragrance. quarts are a LOT cheaper, but Ronson's squeeze bottles come in handy. Like every other tech I know I keep a bottle on my bench, but buy VM&P naphtha by the gallon at professional paint stores (not Home Depot).
Naphtha is recommended because it doesn't damage any coatings used on instruments - lacquer, polyurethane of polyester - it does a great job of flushing out grease and oil, works great for removing sticker gunk and tape adhesives, and leaves NO residue.
Every used steel I have bought or serviced has had a buildup of old oil, dirt, hair and dust in the changer and crosshafts (and other moving parts).
Oil is a dirt magnet and after decades of recommending low-viscosity sewing machine oil I switched to DRY Teflon lubricant 9 or 10 years ago. It collects no dirt, doesn't break down into goo like all oils - just reapply it every 3-6 months and you're good to go. The hardest part is flushing out all the old, sticky, greasy gunk on older guitars!
_________________
No chops, but great tone
1930's/40's Rickenbacher/Rickenbacker 6&8 string lap steels
1921 Weissenborn Style 2; Hilo&Schireson hollownecks
Appalachian, Regal & Dobro squarenecks
1959 Fender 400 9+2 B6;1960's Fender 800 3+3+2; 1948 Fender Dual-8 Professional |
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Dave Mudgett
From:
Central Pennsylvania and Gallatin, Tennessee
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Posted 23 Aug 2018 8:08 pm
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I routinely clean my guitars with naptha, it's pretty safe. I agree, outside. It might work on your changer, sometimes it does enough for one that isn't too bad.
But if your changer is really gunked up, such as with years and years of caked-on oil/dirt/grease, naptha may not do it. Most of the changers I've had that really needed cleaning required something much stronger.
In that situation, I had to yank the changer, bring it outside, and then with gloves, drop it in a bath of something like PB Blaster (Bobbe Seymour recommended this) and let it sit for a while. Periodically, I'd brush it (again, outside! and use rubber or latex gloves to handle it!) to yank the nastiest stuff off, and then let it sit again for a while. Rinse and repeat as necessary.
A lot depends on how gunked up your changer is. Worth a try with naptha, but if that doesn't really clean it up, you may need to go to the harder stuff. But be careful with it. It's nasty! A respirator is not out of the question, but outside on a clear day, I was able to deal with it without one. But I steered clear of the fumes big-time. |
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Per Berner
From:
Skovde, Sweden
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Posted 23 Aug 2018 9:58 pm
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| Just don't use CRC 5-56, that's just as bad as WD-40 for a pedal steel guitar. A sure way to collect dirt instead of getting rid of it. |
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Nicholas Scott
From:
Norfolk, VA USA
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Posted 24 Aug 2018 5:11 am
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| I recently took apart my changer and used brake cleaner to clean it. Worked great, no residue. |
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Erv Niehaus
From:
Litchfield, MN, USA
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Posted 24 Aug 2018 7:22 am
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I had a sticky changer on an Emmons and this is what I used:
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Donny Hinson
From:
Glen Burnie, Md. U.S.A.
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Posted 26 Aug 2018 7:17 am
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| Nicholas Scott wrote: |
| I recently took apart my changer and used brake cleaner to clean it. Worked great, no residue. |
Some brake cleaners will dissolve plastics and destroy certain finishes. So to be safe, if you're going to use it to clean a changer, don't do it with the changer in the guitar.
Been there, done that.  |
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Johnie King
From:
Tennessee, USA
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Posted 26 Aug 2018 8:42 am
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| Elbow grease an gasoline out side or spray can oven cleaner An toaster oven but don’t use your wife’s oven |
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Henry Matthews
From:
Texarkana, Ark USA
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Posted 26 Aug 2018 9:32 am
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If you got the changer off, best thing I’ve found is Berrymans carberator cleaner. Just soak for 24 hours and like new. Can get it in gal can for about 30 bucks.
_________________
Henry Matthews
D-10 Magnum, 8 &5, dark rose color
D-10 1974 Emmons cut tail, fat back,rosewood, 8&5
Nashville 112 amp, Fishman Loudbox Performer amp, Hilton pedal, Goodrich pedal,BJS bar, Kyser picks, Live steel Strings. No effects, doodads or stomp boxes. |
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Drew Pierce
From:
Arkansas, USA
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Posted 26 Aug 2018 5:42 pm
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I put the changer end of the guitar off the end of a bench, upside up, spray the dog out of it with electronic tuner cleaner (basically alcohol), and blow it out (downward) with a serious air compressor. (Not the wimpy spray of the tuner cleaner!) I put newspaper underneath and repeat the process until the blow-through comes out perfectly clean. Then re-lube with the lube of choice. I like Marvel air tool oil.
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Drew Pierce
Emmons D10 Fatback, S10 bolt-on, Zum D10, Evans RE500, Hilton volume and delay pedals. |
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Bobby D. Jones
From:
West Virginia, USA
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Posted 26 Aug 2018 5:59 pm CRC to clean changer.
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My suggestions is, Cigarette Lighter Fluid or One of the Cheap Engine Starting Sprays for cleaning changer.
Most Carburator Cleaner and Brake Cleaners have strong solivents that will destroy Varnishes, some Plastics, Glues and Wood Finishes. As a police armor I had to replace plastic parts in pistols because of using Brake or Carb cleaners. It also destroyed the glue that held the cells in night sights, Had to replace nights too.
Many Oven cleanser have a Costic Soda base. It will Destroy Aluminum. As a machine attendant for Westinghouse. I took the stainless steel inserts out of the Aluminumizer and put them in hot water and Costic Soda. It boiled and ate all the aluminum out of them. Put out fumes that would fry your lungs without proper ventilation.
Be sure to lubricate the changer. Good cleaners will leave the metal dry.
When cleaning be safe for you and your guitar. |
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Mark McCornack
From:
California, USA
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Posted 29 Aug 2018 1:13 pm
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I've got an old 'Bud changer that needs cleaning that I'm just about to tackle. Also, I've got a small (800ml, 35 Watt) Ultrasonic cleaner for jewelry, small parts, etc, and I'm thinking this may be useful.
If so, what would be a good cleaning solution to put in this for the changer fingers, springs, and such? My unit does not have a heater, so solution at room temp. Anyone have experience with this?
Mark  |
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Henry Matthews
From:
Texarkana, Ark USA
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Posted 29 Aug 2018 10:31 pm
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Simple Green works real well too and is non toxic. It comes in a spray bottle. You can spray on changer with guitar resting on changer end. Do it several times then rinse with snoring like tuner clear. Simple green will not harm varnishes.
_________________
Henry Matthews
D-10 Magnum, 8 &5, dark rose color
D-10 1974 Emmons cut tail, fat back,rosewood, 8&5
Nashville 112 amp, Fishman Loudbox Performer amp, Hilton pedal, Goodrich pedal,BJS bar, Kyser picks, Live steel Strings. No effects, doodads or stomp boxes. |
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Erv Niehaus
From:
Litchfield, MN, USA
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Posted 30 Aug 2018 7:10 am
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"snoring like tuner clear"?  |
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Henry Matthews
From:
Texarkana, Ark USA
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Posted 30 Aug 2018 10:40 am
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Dang spell check, I meant something😴
_________________
Henry Matthews
D-10 Magnum, 8 &5, dark rose color
D-10 1974 Emmons cut tail, fat back,rosewood, 8&5
Nashville 112 amp, Fishman Loudbox Performer amp, Hilton pedal, Goodrich pedal,BJS bar, Kyser picks, Live steel Strings. No effects, doodads or stomp boxes. |
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Erv Niehaus
From:
Litchfield, MN, USA
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Posted 30 Aug 2018 11:57 am
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Henry,
I hate when that happens. 
Erv |
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Drew Pierce
From:
Arkansas, USA
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Posted 30 Aug 2018 2:47 pm
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The point here seems to be that using any good cleaner/degreaser product, blowing out the residue with a serious air compressor, then following up with a good lube will fix most changer sticking problems.
You may have to adjust some changes as the freed up parts won't work exactly like the sticky parts did.
_________________
Drew Pierce
Emmons D10 Fatback, S10 bolt-on, Zum D10, Evans RE500, Hilton volume and delay pedals. |
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Donny Hinson
From:
Glen Burnie, Md. U.S.A.
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Posted 30 Aug 2018 3:36 pm
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| I'm not a big fan of "flushing" a changer that's in the guitar because doing so will simply drive dirt that's that's on the outside (where it's essentially doing no harm) deep into the changer, between the fingers and the axle. That's where the dirt can do the most harm. A changer is a lot like a car engine, as the dirt on the outside causes very little damage compared to the dirt that gets inside. |
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Drew Pierce
From:
Arkansas, USA
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Posted 30 Aug 2018 6:01 pm
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| Donny Hinson wrote: |
| I'm not a big fan of "flushing" a changer that's in the guitar because doing so will simply drive dirt that's that's on the outside (where it's essentially doing no harm) deep into the changer, between the fingers and the axle. That's where the dirt can do the most harm. A changer is a lot like a car engine, as the dirt on the outside causes very little damage compared to the dirt that gets inside. |
Blowing out a changer as I've described doesn't "drive the dirt--deep into the changer". It dissolves it and blows it out. What you seem to be suggesting is to simply clean the outside (topside?) of the changer and call it a day. Not sure exactly what that does but remove the surface dust. Otherwise, if the changer is gummed up and not working, the only alternative to a good "flushing" would be complete disassembly, cleaning, and reassembly. That's a good option for a professional PSG mechanic, but a really bad idea for user-level maintenance.
That said, I normally just re-lube with a good oil a couple times a year and don't mess with anything else unless the guitar is seriously not working.
_________________
Drew Pierce
Emmons D10 Fatback, S10 bolt-on, Zum D10, Evans RE500, Hilton volume and delay pedals. |
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Andy DePaule
From:
Saigon, Viet Nam & Springfield, Oregon
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Posted 2 Sep 2018 6:09 pm Lacquer thinner works, but...
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I had an older 60's steel with a very stiff changer and pedal action.
Lacquer thinner worked to clean out the old gunked up oil. After I ran the thinner through about four times it was freed up, but you must be careful and be sure it will run through the changer to a bucket or pot under the guitar without touching the finish of the instrument. You also don't want to get it near the mica on that kind of guitar because it could loosen the adhesive holding the mica on.
After cleaning a touch of sewing machine oil in the changer helps a lot too.
This all works, but caution is the word and no smoking!
_________________
Inlaid Star Guitar 2006 by Mark Giles. SD-10 4+5 in E9th; http://luthiersupply.com/instrument-gallery.html
2017 Mullen SD-10, G2 5&5 Polished Aluminum covering. Custom Build for me. Great Steel.
Clinesmith Joaquin Murphy style Aluminum 8 String Lap Steel Short A6th.
Magnatone Jeweltone Series Lap Steel, Circa 1950? 6 String with F#minor7th Tuning.
1956 Dewey Kendrick D-8 4&3, Restoration Project.
1973 Sho~Bud Green SD-10 4&5 PSG, Restoration Project. |
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