SD-10 Pad? |
Pad |
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46% |
[ 35 ] |
No Pad |
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39% |
[ 30 ] |
Small pad |
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14% |
[ 11 ] |
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Total Votes : 76 |
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Author |
Topic: SD10 - Pad, No Pad or Small Pad |
Dan Robinson
From: Colorado, USA
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Posted 21 May 2018 8:22 pm
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I need some help. I hope someone with better bar handling skill (probably includes most of you) can offer guidance.
I'm not good at lifting the bar off the strings. When I slide down to fret zero I get stuck. So I tend to avoid that position. Not good, methinks.
My Carter SD-10 has a nice tooled pad. It looks good, feels good, but my dislike is growing. The pad gets in the way of lifting the bar, and moving it to cover the lower strings. There's not enough space behind string 10 to control the base of the bar.
Maybe my bar handling is to blame. But I keep looking at that pad, wishing it was thinner, or gone altogether.
Last edited by Dan Robinson on 22 May 2018 7:57 pm; edited 3 times in total |
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Georg Sørtun
From: Mandal, Agder, Norway
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Posted 21 May 2018 10:23 pm
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Some discussion about "pads" here…
https://bb.steelguitarforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=282316&highlight=pad
What feels natural for one player, may not work well for another. And, FWIW, I don't like thick pads either – they get in the way, and I much prefer "no pad" on my SD10s
Can you remove the pad without damaging anything? If so it may be worth the try to play without it.
As for controlling the base of the bar on low strings: depending on how steady you hold the bar, you should not have to do anything special with regard to support of the bar-base unless you make a slant (which usually involve higher strings anyway).
As for lifting the bar off the strings: again, it depends on how you hold the bar. With the bar held firmly but relaxed between thumb and middle finger you just have to lift the bar slightly with those two fingers to clear the strings (the thickness of a sheet of paper will do you know), and the fingers dampening the strings behind the bar don't have to be lifted off the strings until you get down to about 1st fret, to avoid hitting the keys.
But, again, we all have learned to do these things in certain ways – via teachers and/or by ourselves, and you have to experiment to find ways that work for you. |
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Dan Robinson
From: Colorado, USA
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Posted 22 May 2018 3:07 pm
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Georg Sørtun wrote: |
Can you remove the pad without damaging anything? If so it may be worth the try to play without it. |
Yep, that's the best way to find out.
If the pad can be easily removed I'll spend some time without it. If I miss it I can try one that is narrower (front to back), partial width (near changer), or simply with less "stuffing."
I wonder if that will increase body resonance (the guitar, not mine). Some Show-Pro SD-10s are made without a pad. That top surface just looks like it will resonate. Not a scientific way to predict resonance, but still... |
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Johnie King
From: Tennessee, USA
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Posted 22 May 2018 3:23 pm
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Dan what kind of steel do u play. Loyd Green plays a Sho Bud with pad but where the pad sets on his is much different from some steels he has three quarter inch step down behind front neck before the pad is attached . Compared to some steel u could say he dose not have a pad that obstructs his bar hand. Sho pro has the nicest pad made today not a big puffy over stuff one with folded corners. Why would u by a $4500 dollar wood guitar an cover that beautiful wood with $$2.00 pc of vinyl. At least do like Jeff at. Sho pro an put something nice back there or nothing at all. |
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Donny Hinson
From: Glen Burnie, Md. U.S.A.
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Posted 22 May 2018 3:40 pm
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Have you tried tilting the guitar back slightly, or raising your seat? Either of these can help to alleviate the problem you're experiencing. |
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Johnie King
From: Tennessee, USA
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Posted 22 May 2018 3:43 pm
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Johnie King
From: Tennessee, USA
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Posted 22 May 2018 3:46 pm
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I have seen some pads that are level with strings makes my bar hand hurt just thinking about it. |
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Dan Robinson
From: Colorado, USA
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Posted 22 May 2018 6:15 pm
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Georg, thanks for sharing the link to Zane King's post. Not sure if the forum search function would pick up that title: Your Steel Guitar Is Not A Piece Of Furniture
Remove 5 phillips-head screws from the underside of the deck, and voila:
Dan: "What should I do with these holes in my steel guitar?"
Mrs. Dan: "Bazooka bubble gum?"
Maybe this would have been better as Poll, pad Yes/No. Nevetheless, I still need to improve my hold on the bar to lift it at fret zero. "Input, input," please share guidance. |
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Dan Robinson
From: Colorado, USA
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Posted 22 May 2018 6:35 pm
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Donny Hinson wrote: |
Have you tried tilting the guitar back slightly, or raising your seat? Either of these can help to alleviate the problem you're experiencing. |
Yes, Donny. I tried all of those things. Still need more "Room to Move." (John Mayall, good song title).
So far just 20 minutes playing it this way. A useful evaluation needs more seat time. |
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Dan Robinson
From: Colorado, USA
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Posted 22 May 2018 6:51 pm
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Johnie, 2008 Carter.
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Bobby D. Jones
From: West Virginia, USA
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Posted 22 May 2018 7:13 pm SD10 Pad interfers with bar handling.
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Few people are built the same. We have to adapt ourselves to equipment, Or adapt the equipment to our body. For comfort adapt the equipment as far as possible for comfort to your body. Then adapt yourself if neccesary.
The pad in the picture does not look factory to me. It looks very thick and fluffy. A piece of quarter inch plywood, With a 4 oz. leather or Nagahyde cover would be about 5/16" thick. May be what you want. For comfort and to cover the holes in the guitar.
I got a gift, Steel Seat with back rest. But the back rest had 4" cushion pad on it. I took it apart and cut the pad to about 1 1/4' thick. Now it fits me. I can set for hours now in comfort.
Good Luck in getting comfortable with your guitar. |
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Dan Robinson
From: Colorado, USA
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Posted 22 May 2018 7:38 pm
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I voted Small Pad because I haven't tried that yet. I learned on S10, now playing SD10. |
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John Goux
From: California, USA
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Posted 22 May 2018 7:45 pm
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Most people want the pad for the right hand comfort. There is little reason to have it under your left hand. A half pad would accomplish the needed support for your right hand and leave your left free to move.
John |
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Dan Robinson
From: Colorado, USA
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Posted 22 May 2018 7:54 pm Re: SD10 Pad interfers with bar handling.
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Bobby D. Jones wrote: |
The pad in the picture... looks very thick and fluffy. |
Yep, it is.
Bobby D. Jones wrote: |
A piece of quarter inch plywood, With a 4 oz. leather or Nagahyde cover would be about 5/16" thick. May be what you want. For comfort and to cover the holes in the guitar. |
That works as "Small Pad." Could be just what I need, and not too spendy to try it.
John Goux, your suggestion also has merit. It won't cover all of the holes, but might work. Can Bazooka Bubblegum be stained after it's cured?
* No Naugas were harmed during the upgrade of this steel guitar. |
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Franklin
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Posted 22 May 2018 8:54 pm
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Dan,
Its your bar technique causing the issue...With incorrect bar control the D10 would cause the same problem because its even thicker than a pad...Until you master how to use the left hand there will be more problems to face, especially concerning intonation. When the bar is held correctly it can be picked up with the thumb and middle finger.
Paul |
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Dan Robinson
From: Colorado, USA
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Posted 23 May 2018 5:10 am
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Paul, thank you very much, sir.
Dan Robinson wrote: |
I need some help. I hope someone with better bar handling skill... can offer guidance.
Maybe my bar handling is to blame. |
Ha, ha... it comes full circle. No matter where you go, there you are.
Just layed a straight edge on the strings at the changer. Indeed the top of the pad is at the same height as the strings of the rear neck that it replaces.
I've had some awareness about my bar technique, but dismissed it. A convenient trap for the unwary (and self taught). Denial is no longer an option. |
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Franklin
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Posted 23 May 2018 7:20 am
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Dan,
Glad to help....Bar control is easy to correct once you focus on key issues like the correct bar size for your physicality..... I hope you will visit my blog for more free guidance on many issues. Also a Lloyd Green interview is coming there shortly.
Paul |
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Chris Sattler
From: Hunter Valley, Australia
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Posted 24 May 2018 2:19 am
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Just beat me to it Paul. I was going to enquire as to what size bar Dan is using and if he can’t get a handle on it maybe try a larger diameter bar. |
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Stephen Rethmeier
From: Nashville TN
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Posted 24 May 2018 6:28 am
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Last year I had an S-12 built by Williams and they don't come with pads. I was concerned that I would need one only ever playing SD-10s. I planned to make something that would serve. However, I quickly found that I didn't need one and if I ever went back to 10 strings, I would go with a single body. Clearly not everyone will have the same experience, but it's just that I was so sure I wanted a pad but ultimately didn't/don't.
Having said that, I know my bar technique needs work... _________________ Williams S12 Ext. E9 keyless, Williams S12 Ext. E9 keyed, Telonics TCA 500C, Quilter Steelaire, Magic Fender clone, 1937 Model 59 Rick 6, 1940 Epiphone 7-string Zephyr, Oahu 6, 8+/- regular guitars, Kawai baby grand, two cats... |
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Tucker Jackson
From: Portland, Oregon, USA
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Posted 24 May 2018 10:38 am
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Hi, Dan. I've also gone through this question, also with regard to a Carter. I've removed the pad twice only to put it back on after a week. Folks with pads can either use them or take them off. The only rule is to set it up the way you prefer.
After the second round of messing with it, measuring things showed that I wasn't automatically being held back by a too-tall pad; mine is slightly lower than what a C6 neck would be... if I had a C6 neck. The realization kick in -- once again -- that any supposed problem with my gear was really just a problem with the operator and his perception of his rig. |
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Johnie King
From: Tennessee, USA
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Posted 24 May 2018 12:44 pm
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Tucker maybe a very thin piece of stainless steel to replace pad would look good . Or Formica with two way carpet tape
Last edited by Johnie King on 24 May 2018 4:05 pm; edited 6 times in total |
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Johnie King
From: Tennessee, USA
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Posted 24 May 2018 1:23 pm
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Dan u could drill some more holes to match those problem solved or have Jeff at Sho Pro build u a nice non pedal 6 string dobro simulater looks really cool on his steel. |
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John Billings
From: Ohio, USA
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Posted 25 May 2018 12:29 am
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Ack! If your posture is right, and you address your guitar correctly, you don't need a pad.. _________________ Dr. Z Surgical Steel amp, amazing!
"74 Bud S-10 3&6
'73 Bud S-10 3&5(under construction)
'63 Fingertip S-10, at James awaiting 6 knees
'57 Strat, LP Blue
'91 Tele with 60's Maple neck
Dozen more guitars!
Dozens of amps, but SF Quad reverb, Rick Johnson cabs. JBL 15, '64 Vibroverb for at home.
'52 and '56 Pro Amps |
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Brooks Montgomery
From: Idaho, USA
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Posted 25 May 2018 9:34 am
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I got this 25" pad from Amazon: $17.49
3M wrist rest. Works great for my 'Bud Pro1
Edit: I realize this is an SD pad topic (not S-10) but thought this dandy pad might be of interest for any of you working a DIY project. _________________ A banjo, like a pet monkey, seems like a good idea at first. |
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Dan Robinson
From: Colorado, USA
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Posted 25 May 2018 3:23 pm
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I was surprised at the number of No Pad votes.
John Billings wrote: |
Ack! If your posture is right, and you address your guitar correctly, you don't need a pad.. |
No surprise hearing it from you, JB. Been your stated position for a long time.
I may be coming around to that school of thought. Planning to work on my S10 ShoBud that was hoping to wear James' parts. Michael Yahl is going to make racks and knee levers for it. Ooo-weee, a rendezvous with my first blonde. I'm getting excited.
Brooks Montgomery wrote: |
I got this 25" pad from Amazon: $17.49
3M wrist rest. Works great for my 'Bud Pro1 |
Brooks, that's a worthwhile idea. I wouldn't dismiss it because I have an SD-10. The narrow pad has some appeal.
Since the Carter has 5 good size holes on top I'm leaning towards (ooops, use a pun, go to prison) a thin layer of high-density/closed-cell foam covered with fauz-suede fabric. Comfortable for bare forearms when it's hot. |
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