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Topic: Question for fellow Sho-Bud Owners |
Igor Fiksman
From:
Georgia, USA
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Posted 25 Apr 2018 8:24 pm |
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This one is for folks who own Sho-Buds with Pro series 2-hole bell cranks, such as later Pro II, Pro III or early LDG.
A problem develops where a commonly used pull would start behaving erratically, and pull flat of pitch from time to time, but not consistently every time. For example, pedal B would tune to perfect A with a nylon tuner, and every so often when you press the pedal it would only go to Ab or somewhere in between the two.
Having wasted many frustrating hours trying to troubleshoot this in vain, few years back, I finally found a culprit. The issue was caused by wear of the brass set screw swivel. Thinner portion of the Swivel that passes though the bell crank would wear into egg shape over time instead of a perfect circle, and depending on the position of the "egg" would result in variation in travel distance, thereby causing this incredibly frustrating tuning issue. Replacing the swivel with a new one solved the problem. Trouble is - a year later a couple more swivels had same wear, all on commonly used pulls such as pedal A or B.
So, after this long winded description, here's my question - do you all experience the same wear issue? How often do you have to replace worn swivels? Michael at PSG Parts luckily has replacements, but if this problem is to always be expected, it's probably a good idea to have a big handful of spares. Also, I have only owned brass swivels before, but a lot of swivels I've seen in people's photos are more silver in color, are those made out of different metal? If so, do those last longer? Thanks for all your input.
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SHO-BUD Professional SD-10 Black, SHO-BUD Pro III Custom D-10 Red, Goodrich Matchbox 6A, Steeler's Choice seat, Quilter Steelaire Amps. |
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Dan Robinson
From:
Colorado, USA
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Posted 25 Apr 2018 9:59 pm
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I wish I knew. Mine has racks and barrels.
Man, even the maple underside of that 6139 looks pretty! |
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Dave Campbell
From:
Nova Scotia, Canada
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Posted 26 Apr 2018 2:07 am
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my ldg has the same undercarriage, with the brass swivels. when i first bought it, it had been ridden pretty hard. i took the whole thing apart and put it back together, and then i rode it pretty hard.
i haven't noticed the swivels to have any appreciable wear, but i never looked because i haven't had the problem that you describe. i will say that the previous owner may not have been serious about cleanliness, but they were serious about lubrication (which is more important anyhow) and i have made lubricating the swivels a routine part of maintenance.
i would check to make sure that nothing else is binding which might put more strain on the swivels. i'd lube them up in between the bellcrank and swivel. i don't know if having an appropriate amount of slack in the pull train might be an issue as well.
it would not surprise me if sho bud had a batch of poor quality swivels, although 40+ years isn't too bad, and at least michael yahl still supplies them.
these are great and kind of undersung sho bud models in my opinion. they sound, play and look great. their only flaw is the finger tops as the plating eventually wears away and leaves a zinging groove. |
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Roger Hand
From:
Maine, USA
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Posted 26 Apr 2018 5:02 am brass rod rollers
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| my LDG went almost 40 years befor replacement. a temp solution is pull the tuning rod out and turn the brass roller one half turn , so its pulling on the unworn side then put rod back & go again. |
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Mark Draycott R.I.P.
From:
Portland, OR
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Posted 26 Apr 2018 7:22 am Brass Rod Holder
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I just went through the exact same issue. My LDG is a 1976 and the brass wore on the A and B pedal brass.
_________________
1976 Sho-Bud Pro II, 1976 Sho-Bud LDG, BF Fender Deluxe, Evans FET 500 LV, BF Princeton Reverb, '68 Vibrolux Reverb |
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Bob Knight
From:
Bowling Green KY
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Posted 26 Apr 2018 11:54 am
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Those swivels are brass for a reason, or had you rather replace "egged" out puller fingers?
_________________
<b>Rick Johnson Cabinets<b>
<b>Brand X Custom Fiber Cases</b>
<b> John Pearse Thumb Picks, Bars and Strings</b>
"Thankfully, persistence is a great substitute for talent."
— Steve Martin |
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Igor Fiksman
From:
Georgia, USA
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Posted 26 Apr 2018 1:58 pm
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Thanks, everybody. I guess if amount of wear is proportional to amount of use, then I should be proud of wearing them out. I'll start considering these to be "expandables", just as we do with nylon tuners. Time to place an order with Michael Yahl, and keeping a few of them and a pair of snap ring pliers in my pack a seat. Thanks for your input. And Bob, good point about brass being used for it's softer quality for this reason. I didn't think that through.
_________________
SHO-BUD Professional SD-10 Black, SHO-BUD Pro III Custom D-10 Red, Goodrich Matchbox 6A, Steeler's Choice seat, Quilter Steelaire Amps. |
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Kevin Fix
From:
Michigan, USA
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Posted 26 Apr 2018 4:23 pm
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| I replaced a few of them on older Buds I owned. I was a firm believer of putting a drop of oil on each one of them. |
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Russ Wever
From:
Kansas City
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Posted 26 Apr 2018 4:43 pm
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You could get a new point-of-contact out of the worn brass swivels by
1) drilling & tapping for the set-screw on the other side (180 degrees)
then reinstalling them 180 away from their previous orientation.
2) removing the brass swivels and re-install them on the other side of
the puller (bell crank) and shifting the pullers (bell cranks) accordingly
along the cross-shaft to keep the pull-rods inline.
These two options will not restore the full diameter of the brass
(where it contacts the puller), but will give it a fresh point-of-contact
with lesser 'area-of-contact' (less friction) with the puller than
with the worn area.
A lubricant at the swivel-to-puller point-of-contact
will greatly increase the life of the part(s) as
opposed to leaving them dry.
~Rw
_________________
www.russface
www.russguru |
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Michael Yahl
From:
Troy, Texas!
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Posted 27 Apr 2018 4:56 am
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Igor,
It's also possible that the hole in the puller itself may have a burr or is exceptional rough on the hole size and finish. this is not uncommon in a stamped part. I would inspect that puller and if possible check the diameter of the hole. If it is too far oversize it can cause more rapid wear due to a lesser contact area. Check the alignment on the shaft to be sure that the pull rod isn't sitting at an angle which would also exacerbate wear.
Parts that are stamped actually have a taper on the edges due to the action of the material being sheared on the backside of the stamping. this of course makes a round hole cone shaped. this is normal and unavoidable with a stamped part. The sheared portion of material increases slightly as the stamping die wears.
Everything mentioned in the previous posts are good solutions.
Glad to hear that you're putting so much time on that guitar that you are actually wearing it out!
They're made to be played!
_________________
"Don't fergit to kiss yer horse!"
'72 Sho-Bud Professional D10, (in pieces .....), '78 MSA Classic XL D10, '69 Emmons PP, Fender 2000
Peavey Session 500 BW, Crate Digital Modeling Amp
PSG PARTS
http://www.psgparts.com/ |
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