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Topic: adjusting what some levers/pedals do on my own? |
David Sheads
From:
Pennsylvania, USA
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Posted 22 Jan 2018 6:47 pm |
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Hi, all!
Fairly new to the forum, and pretty new to pedal steel. I bought a GFI ultra 12 string from Billy Cooper some time back, and am only recently becoming competent enough to realize that the copendent on the one I got may be a little unusual - definitely different than the one listed as the standard universal 12 copendent on the GFI site. I’d like to get it set up so that I don’t have to relearn too much if I figure out that it’s too unusual to make progress as I get better.
Before I contact Billy and Wanda, I’d like to get a feel for how complicated it is to change some of the set up on my own. I’m fairly mechanically inclined. I’m having trouble finding threads on the forum here that go into how to make adjustments. I’d appreciate anyone who can point me in the right direction or offer some advice. I’m working on compiling what my copendent set up is and will post in a bit...
Thanks! |
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Jerry Overstreet
From:
Louisville Ky
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Posted 22 Jan 2018 6:58 pm
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| Welcome David. Have a look at the info left by the old Carter World Class Steels site. Lots of good information there concerning setup, rodding, tweaking etc. Maybe you'll find this link helpful. www.steelguitar.com |
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David Sheads
From:
Pennsylvania, USA
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Posted 22 Jan 2018 7:07 pm
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Thanks, Jerry!
I’ll check it out.
Upon further/closer inspection, it’s just the LKR and RKL that have been swapped. (attaching photo of copedent to this reply) Does anyone know if this is a common/useful substitution, or if it is likely to cause problems down the road? As in, is it worth “correcting†or better left as-is?
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Ian Worley
From:
Sacramento, CA
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Posted 22 Jan 2018 7:57 pm
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Swapping the two levers around like you've described should be easy. It's generally pretty straightforward when the two levers have the same number of pulls. It doesn't matter what notes they're pulling, it only matters that you have the correct number pull rods that are the correct length (which if I read your chart correctly, you will).
Just remove the four rods, noting which hole each is in at both ends. Re-position the bell cranks to align with the new configuration and re-install the correct length rods for each.
If the new configuration was adding any pulls to either you would of course need additional bell cranks and rods to accommodate.
When re-assembling you will want the rods in the same holes they were in based on the note they were pulling to get the same leverage as before. You will likely also need to adjust the stops on the levers to lengthen or shorten their throws to accommodate the changes.
A lot of uni players will tell you that having the E lower on the right knee is better as it frees up your left leg to reach over to the inner B6 pedals more easily |
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David Sheads
From:
Pennsylvania, USA
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Posted 22 Jan 2018 8:52 pm
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Thanks for the extremely informative reply, Ian!
By your description (and perhaps some of the resources at the site mentioned earlier), I feel like I could definitely make this adjustment on my own. I may try it out on a long weekend and set it back if I change my mind.
Also, if this copedent matches up with what some other 12 string players have found to be useful, I may just give it a go for a while and see if I run into any problems with it. I do like the idea of the left knee left-and-right controlling just one string, but i’m already accustomed to having the right knee dropping my E. |
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Jerry Overstreet
From:
Louisville Ky
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Posted 22 Jan 2018 9:04 pm
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| Yeah, I believe the E lower is better on the right knee for most Uni players. I think I'd just play it the way it is set up and get used to it that way. It should work fine with the rest of your setup. |
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Brint Hannay
From:
Maryland, USA
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Posted 22 Jan 2018 9:14 pm
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Just one opinion--mine--but I'd recommend keeping the lever arrangement as is. I'm not a uni player, but lowering the E's is a key component in enabling "C6" (B6) sounds from a generally E9-based open tuning, and holding in RKL with your right knee while working various pedals and other levers with your left foot and knee seems to me more ergonomic than having your left knee and foot have to perform extra complicated duty.
(Disclosure--I'm a 10-string E9 player who is among the almost 40% (according to polls) who have the E lowers on RKL--partly for purposes of getting "x6th" sounds.) |
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Bobby D. Jones
From:
West Virginia, USA
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Posted 22 Jan 2018 10:46 pm adjusting what some Pedals/levers do on my own
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Welcome to the crazy world of Steel Guitar.
My playing guitar is a GFI Ultra S12 U. When I got it was set up with Jeff Newman's copendent Emmons/Nashville pedals. I changed it to Day Set up with no problem. Mr. Newman's copendent has the "D" Knee lever (Lower 4&8 to D# Right Knee Right.
"F" Knee lever, Right Knee Left (Raises 4-8-11 to F). Left knee Left brings 2nd string to C#. And 9th string to D as on a 10 string E9th tuning. Mr. Newman's copendent has no Left right lever. But has a long vertical lever he used to lower 5th string B to A#.
Take pictures and make a drawing of holes in bell crank and changer and transfer the rods to change the pedal or knee lever.
An allen wrench to fit the screw in the brass bell crank connector and a Phillips No2 to move the bell crank on the cross rod are the only tools you would need. Good Luck in this adventure, Happy Steelin. |
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Ian Rae
From:
Redditch, England
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Posted 23 Jan 2018 12:00 am
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I do play uni and I have long been puzzled by the GFI setup with the E lowers on LKR. I don't understand how your left foot can move freely over the pedals with it engaged. You need to be able to rock between 5 & 6 on the B6 just like A & B on the E9.
Personally I favour RKR as it gives even more freedom, but I would certainly leave it as it is for now - whoever changed it was making a clear improvement.
_________________
Make sleeping dogs tell the truth!
Homebuilt keyless U12 7x5, Excel keyless U12 8x8, Williams keyless U12 7x8, Telonics rack and 15" cabs |
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Mike Selecky
From:
BrookPark, Ohio
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Posted 23 Jan 2018 4:22 am
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I play a universal setup and agree that the E's are better lowered with the RKR - when you finally get into the 6th side of the tuning, you want to have as much freedom as you can with your left foot.
I'd also recommend adding a pull to lower the 2nd string to C# on that lever. That way, you get the equivalent 1st string note of the normal C6th (D), and you still have the F# on the 1st string, which equates to the old G note that was used on the 1st string on the C6th tuning originally. |
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Lane Gray
From:
Topeka, KS
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Posted 23 Jan 2018 6:45 pm
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Both of those locations are common.
My advice for all new players is: unless your guitar has a weird setup, learn on what you have, and only make changes when you understand what you'll gain and what you'll lose.
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2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects |
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David Sheads
From:
Pennsylvania, USA
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Posted 24 Jan 2018 4:00 am
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| Thanks for the input, everyone. It’s a great relief to know it’s already set up in a usable configuration. I’ll keep it as-is for now until i better understand/have a strong opinion on what would be an optimal set up for my playing style (as it develops). |
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