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Topic: Derby center rail |
Paul Sutherland
From:
Placerville, California
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Posted 29 Dec 2017 3:50 pm |
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Recently I've noticed that Derby steels built on a double chassis (D-10s & SD10s) have a center rail that the crossbars pass through. Can anyone say whether that has an effect on cabinet drop? It seems to me it might reduce it a bit as it might increase the rigidity of the body a tad. Any thoughts?
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It don't mean a thing if it ain't got that swing. |
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Jerry Overstreet
From:
Louisville Ky
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Posted 29 Dec 2017 4:16 pm
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I'd say no. I think it's purpose is to stabilize the cross shafts and allow attachment points for the KL's that only work on the C neck...and to frustrate those of us who need to add or remove one of the shafts...
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Jon Light
From:
Saugerties, NY
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Posted 29 Dec 2017 4:29 pm
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I'll avoid turning this into a complaint by not discussing brand names but a full width cross shaft in a double body that does not have either a center rail or a bumper-type support in the center is going to have flexing problems unless the shaft is especially robust. This flexing will result in extraneous movement and possibly extra friction in the end bearings because of being pulled out of alignment. I'm uncertain of the physics but I am certain that unsupported full width shafts in my guitar made it all but impossible to slowly squeeze the A or B pedals without them grabbing and catching, feeling notchy all along the way. I fabricated supports for the center and this remedied the problem around 90%. I consider it an gross omission on my guitar that these were missing.
So from my observations, this is the purpose of the center rail. |
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Paul Sutherland
From:
Placerville, California
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Posted 29 Dec 2017 4:53 pm
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So does moving a cross shaft means disconnecting everything from the center brace and unscrewing the brace to lift it out, so the cross shaft can come out?
Another question: Are the cross shafts on a Derby aluminum or steel?
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It don't mean a thing if it ain't got that swing. |
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Jerry Overstreet
From:
Louisville Ky
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Posted 29 Dec 2017 5:06 pm
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Yes, pretty much....except for the dedicated rear neck shafts. I've been able to wiggle one or two out up on the left end, but it's hardly worth the effort. The center rail is aluminum, so it will bend a little bit side to side. You can remove the screws that hold the rail in and pretty much tell from that how much clearance you are going to gain.
The other thing about the cross shafts that run the full width of the body is that they have a spring loaded pin that fits the bushing. It's inside the shaft on the pedal side as I recall.
The shafts are stainless steel. |
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Dick Sexton
From:
Greenville, Ohio
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Posted 30 Dec 2017 6:27 am Derby center rail and cross shafts...
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| Paul, the rail is one of the reasons I have not added a couple of changes that I would like to try on mine. Don't get me wrong, removing the rail is no big deal, if you want to. Mine only has one knee lever and one 1/2 stop mechanism attached to it that would even have to be considered. I do have all the required parts and may get to it one day. |
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Jerry Overstreet
From:
Louisville Ky
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Posted 30 Dec 2017 8:52 am
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There are some pretty good pics of Derby you can look at to see how the rail is mounted. Damir has a good shot of the underside in the classifieds.
Yes, the rail just basically sits on top of the center bushings and will lift off after you remove the screws and detach the offending parts.
On a D10, there's a lot of cranks, rods etc. you have to remove to get the shafts out...lots easier on the SD and you have to deal with that spring loaded pin to get the shaft out of the front bushing. You have to find a way to push it back inside the shaft for clearance from the apron. Usually, there's just enough room to slide a pocket screwdriver in and gradually push against the pin and hold tension over and over until it's out.
Or, one can drill a small hole near the end of the shaft for a small pick to fit in and work it out that way. |
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Damir Besic
From:
Nashville,TN.
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