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Topic: Lower spring adjustment procedure?? |
Bob Carlucci
From:
Candor, New York, USA
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Posted 13 Jul 2005 5:12 am |
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While working on an old Williams, I have made several adjustments of the lower return springs , and want to make sure I have the proper grasp of the situation.
[NEVER had a steel with adjustable springs]
I have noticed if too heavy a string is used, the added tension keeps the lower finger out just a tiny bit,causing tuning problems.
After using the proper string[thinner] the problem was resolved on one string.
Now ,I found other strings doing the same thing to a lesser degree, but these string gauges were correct.
The way I adjusted it, I added just enough tension on the springs so that the fingers always retract fully, seating against the stop bar back of the changer, but not enough that it causes the pedal or lever to have an increase in stiffness.
Would this be an acceptable procedure?..
It seemed to work well,but I want to make sure I'm not missing something important. I would welcome comments from someone who has done this. I LIKE the fact that these springs don't have to be CUT or STRETCHED like some other guitars!... bob |
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Larry Bell
From:
Englewood, Florida
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Sonny Miller
From:
Lino Lakes, Minnesota, USA
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Posted 13 Jul 2005 6:04 am
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Bob,when ever any body changes the strings from say E9 to to C6 you will have a lot of springs completely out of wack.But you can adjust them on a Willie as you found out.
Now putting back the light strings, will result in you having to loosen the springs,for easier pedal action.
That is the beauty of the Williams guitar.It can be adjusted!
A lot of the non adjustable springs would result in a pile of junk when you switch necks etc. The seller went to a C6/E9 and gave up, because of spring problems, and it resulted in a trip to Ebay.
Yes, this the reason the previous owner gave up on it.
But now that you found the cause of your problems, you will get that Willie back together again so it plays right.
You wont have any problems you cant solve now.
If you have questions, give Bill Rudolph a call,as that is what i have done in the past, when i have a Willie question.
If you live close by, drop in and he will fix you up. |
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Bob Carlucci
From:
Candor, New York, USA
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Posted 13 Jul 2005 9:23 am
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wow.. It looks like I did it pretty much as the Carter site described!.. And yes Sonny, This guitar WAS a C6 copedent which is the reason I need to adjust these springs at all.
It is really performing nicely now. bob |
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Sonny Miller
From:
Lino Lakes, Minnesota, USA
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Posted 14 Jul 2005 5:22 pm
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Bob, the Willie, will get better for you as you get used to it.
Bet you wont have any problems selling the guitar now.
Stay in touch and let us know how it turns out. |
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John Bechtel
From:
Nashville, Tennessee, R.I.P.
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Posted 14 Jul 2005 7:10 pm
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The secret to adjusting the Lowering ‘return~springs’ is simple! The Return~Spring should have ‘only enough tension’ so that the Lower-Mechanisum does not lift off the bar when the string is raised (very~slowly)! If the string never Raises, then the Return~spring should have just enough tension to return to the bar, when released (very~slowly)! If your guitar has ‘helper~springs’ on the Raise~Mechanisum, remove them on all strings that both Raise and Lower. Actually, none of them are necessary at all! But, if you have a helper~spring on a string that is trying to Lower, you're also fighting the helper~spring. As a matter of fact, the string will go to a Lower-Pitch w/o the Helper~Spring pulling the other way.
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“Big John” Bechtel
’04 SD–10 Black Derby w/3 & 5 & Pad
’49-’50 Fender T–8 Custom
’65 Re-Issue Fender Twin–Reverb Custom™ 15” Eminence
web site |
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