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Topic: Fender Stringbreaker (400/1000) bridge for E9 |
Gary Spaeth
From:
Wisconsin, USA
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Posted 10 Oct 2017 8:52 am |
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this has been working fine on the g# to a change. fairly simple fix.
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Dave Zirbel
From:
Sebastopol, CA USA
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Posted 10 Oct 2017 11:57 am
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I like it!
_________________
Dave Zirbel-
Sierra S-10 (Built by Ross Shafer),ZB, Fender 400 guitars, various tube and SS amps |
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Gary Spaeth
From:
Wisconsin, USA
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Posted 11 Oct 2017 2:50 pm
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| thanks Dave. |
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Jon Kostal
From:
Westmont, Illinois, USA
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Posted 11 Oct 2017 4:52 pm
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| That's cool! Did it fix the problem? I was thinking of a .009 or .008 string in that position. Currently in a D9 tuning to alleviate this problem. |
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Gary Spaeth
From:
Wisconsin, USA
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Posted 11 Oct 2017 8:15 pm
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| yes i've been playing it several hours a day since saturday with an .011 and no breaks and staying in tune very well. i really like the brightness of the e9th as compared to d9 which is kind of dark sounding to me. |
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Jim Sliff
From:
Lawndale California, USA
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Posted 11 Oct 2017 8:39 pm
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Looks like a good solution - but is it the camera angle or are the main and G# rollers different diameters?
After servicing dozens of them I've found that as long as the saddle area is highly polished and kept lubed with dry Teflon (oils collect dust; dust is abrasive) it makes little if any difference what type of saddle is on there. It usually takes at least a 10x...20x is better...magnifier to verify. Pretty close to mirror-smooth is what's needed for a high G#.
The usual "V" shaped rollers found on them is generally the most problematic because few players bother to seriously clean/polish the center of the V. They assume the rolling motion which is minimal, will do all the work.
_________________
No chops, but great tone
1930's/40's Rickenbacher/Rickenbacker 6&8 string lap steels
1921 Weissenborn Style 2; Hilo&Schireson hollownecks
Appalachian, Regal & Dobro squarenecks
1959 Fender 400 9+2 B6;1960's Fender 800 3+3+2; 1948 Fender Dual-8 Professional |
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Gary Spaeth
From:
Wisconsin, USA
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Posted 12 Oct 2017 4:46 am
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| bridge and roller the same diameter but the bottom of the roller is ground away to give it freedom to move. |
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Gary Spaeth
From:
Wisconsin, USA
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Posted 6 Nov 2017 11:26 am
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| i finally broke a string but it broke at the hog ring and not on the bridge. must be too much flexing there. i think replacing the hog ring with something that looks like an open bicycle chain link so one shaft would fit in the puller and the string would slide on the other shaft. then there'd be no flexing just the ball rolling a little on the shaft. |
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Chris Templeton
From:
The Green Mountain State
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Gary Spaeth
From:
Wisconsin, USA
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Posted 20 Nov 2017 11:58 am
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| thanks chris. i replaced the broken .011 with a .012 and it has been working for a few days now. |
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Chris Templeton
From:
The Green Mountain State
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Gary Spaeth
From:
Wisconsin, USA
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Posted 20 Nov 2017 2:59 pm
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| i was desperate so i gave it a shot after reading about so many using them here on the forum. |
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Jim Palenscar
From:
Oceanside, Calif, USA
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Posted 21 Nov 2017 7:51 am
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| Great idea! |
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Gary Spaeth
From:
Wisconsin, USA
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Posted 22 Nov 2017 5:10 am
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| thanks jim. i like your roller bridges. |
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Bill Ford
From:
Graniteville SC Aiken
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Posted 23 Nov 2017 11:30 am
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Gary, Try bending the hogring so the string ball is up in the air more, worked for me. Bill
_________________
Bill Ford S12 CLR, S12 Lamar keyless, Misc amps&toys Sharp Covers
Steeling for Jesus now!!! |
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