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Author Topic:  Emmons PP Tone Control Issue
Don Mogle

 

From:
Round Rock, TX, USA
Post  Posted 8 Jun 2017 3:16 pm    
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Hey Guys,

I need some advise. My Emmons PP tone control is very stiff and difficult to operate.

I've tried the trick of putting through the twisting range of motion until it gets better, but it goes back to its former state after awhile. It's never really easy to operate even after going through this exercise.

I'm thinking of replacing it with another brand new tone control. I played a friend's Emmons Legrand II last night and the tone control was very smooth! That experience gave rise to this post.

Is there anything I should look for in purchasing a tone control? Are there any values I should look for in a tone control? Which ones are the best? What should I stay away from?

Alternatively, are there any tricks you could recommend to permanently loosen up the current tone control on the guitar right now?

Any advice is greatly appreciated!

Thanks,

Don
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David Nugent

 

From:
Gum Spring, Va.
Post  Posted 8 Jun 2017 3:27 pm    
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May be a long shot; but have you removed the knob and turned the shaft itself to determine if it is the control or perhaps only the knob binding against the plate or the nut?
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Lane Gray


From:
Topeka, KS
Post  Posted 8 Jun 2017 4:04 pm    
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What David said.
The pot is a standard part, and its value should be stamped on it. If you're not handy with a soldering iron, any guitar shop can replace it, no pedal steel knowledge required
_________________
2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects
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Cartwright Thompson


Post  Posted 9 Jun 2017 4:55 am    
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Try spraying it out with contact cleaner
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Erv Niehaus


From:
Litchfield, MN, USA
Post  Posted 9 Jun 2017 7:26 am    
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I never use the tone control on a p/p.
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Jack Goodson

 

From:
new brockton,alabama (deceased)
Post  Posted 9 Jun 2017 10:54 am     Tone control?
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I am with Erv, except I disconnect mine. It will sound better....thanks jack
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Tony Prior


From:
Charlotte NC
Post  Posted 9 Jun 2017 12:20 pm    
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My 81 has a frozen tone control pot,it's been frozen about two years now. I bought a new pot two years ago. Whoa!
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Don Mogle

 

From:
Round Rock, TX, USA
Post  Posted 9 Jun 2017 7:11 pm     Tone Control
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Thanks guys. I'll give this some consideration.

Don
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Terry Barnett

 

From:
Winnipeg Manitoba, Canada
Post  Posted 10 Jun 2017 3:52 am    
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Hey Don...here's a trick...take off the knob, use a drop or two of WD40 right at the base of the shaft and let it work it's way in. The shaft should free its self and return to normal. It's important not to use WD40 as a cleaner but it will lube the mechanical part of the pot. Try it...
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Jack Hanson


From:
San Luis Valley, USA
Post  Posted 10 Jun 2017 5:47 am    
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I am fortunate enough to have two push/pulls, a D-10 and a GS-10. On the GS-10, the pot and cap are disconnected; the pickup runs straight through to the jack. It sounds awesome.

The D-10 has the standard factory wiring, with the pot, cap, and switch. The only time I ever switch in the pot and cap is when I run through a distortion, overdrive, fuzz, or other dirt pedal to roll off the highs just a tad. 99.9% of the time the pot and cap are switched out of the circuit.
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Larry Behm


From:
Mt Angel, Or 97362
Post  Posted 10 Jun 2017 7:04 am    
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Cut the wires, you do not need it.
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'70 D10 Black fatback Emmons PP, Hilton VP, BJS bars, Boss GE-7 for Dobro effect, Zoom MS50G, Stereo Steel amp, Telonics 15” speaker.

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Cartwright Thompson


Post  Posted 10 Jun 2017 2:21 pm    
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I use mine all the time. Just a tiny top end roll off.
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Don Mogle

 

From:
Round Rock, TX, USA
Post  Posted 10 Jun 2017 4:02 pm     Tone Control Issue
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Well, I think I've fixed the problem.

I hit the shaft of the pot with WD-40 and tried to work it back and forth. It got better, but was still not where I wanted it to be. I did a Google research and came upon a post where someone used a small amount of oil (3-in-One, etc.) on the shaft with success. I had a small bottle of lube I got from Mullen awhile back and thought I'd give it a try. BINGO! It's smooth now!

The odd thing is that the control did not really change the sound of the steel that much after I got it freed. It use to act like a real tone control. Perhaps my ears are not hearing things like they use to.

At any rate, I hope my FIX didn't do anything to damage the internal mechanism of the control. But at least it's operating smoothly now...which was the goal! Thanks for the tips fellas!

Don
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Jack Hanson


From:
San Luis Valley, USA
Post  Posted 10 Jun 2017 4:28 pm     Re: Tone Control Issue
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Don Mogle wrote:
The odd thing is that the control did not really change the sound of the steel that much after I got it freed. It use to act like a real tone control.

The tone control should make a considerable difference in its sweep from one extreme to the other. Perhaps you have a bad tone cap.
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Don Mogle

 

From:
Round Rock, TX, USA
Post  Posted 10 Jun 2017 7:10 pm     Tone Cap
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Jack,

Can you put a meter on the tone cap to check it for function? If not, how do you test to see if it's got an issue?

Thanks for the tip!

Don
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Terry Barnett

 

From:
Winnipeg Manitoba, Canada
Post  Posted 11 Jun 2017 5:01 am    
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Hey Don...so glad to see that the lube idea worked. The reason for trying the WD is because it's a good place to start...sewing machine oil is kinda step two. But hey, you got the idea. Now, take a pencil and carefully check the wires attached to the tone pot. Just move things a tiny bit...everything might look right but one of the wires may have broken, who knows how, but it may just be as simple as that, and you can reattach...Bob's your uncle. Cheers
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Don Mogle

 

From:
Round Rock, TX, USA
Post  Posted 11 Jun 2017 5:11 am     PP Tone Pot
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Terry,

Will do. I'll try that today if I have time after church and the North Texas Steel meeting.

Don
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Jack Hanson


From:
San Luis Valley, USA
Post  Posted 11 Jun 2017 6:46 am     Re: Tone Cap
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Don Mogle wrote:
Can you put a meter on the tone cap to check it for function? If not, how do you test to see if it's got an issue?

What you describe is likely doable, but not being an electronics nerd, I would be hesitant to offer any advice. There are folks here on the Forum who are experts in the field, and far more qualified than myself to answer your question.

If the problem as described was on one of my instruments, I would merely procure the correct cap and replace it. Capacitors are relatively inexpensive; the shipping would likely cost more than the cap.
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Randy Schneider


From:
SW New Mexico, USA
Post  Posted 11 Jun 2017 7:07 am     Re: Tone Cap
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Don Mogle wrote:
Can you put a meter on the tone cap to check it for function? If not, how do you test to see if it's got an issue?


Testing the cap is pretty inconclusive with a plain multimeter. But if you've got a meter, you may as well check to see that the pot is working as it should.

A typical guitar tone control 'circuit' is pretty simple -- if it's not working properly, the fault is in the pot or the cap or the connections to/from those elements. For example, the tone control will do nothing if the ground connection is faulty. As Terry suggested, checking the connections makes sense.
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