Pedals on steel guitar

Joseph Torres · From: Arizona, USA

Can anyone out there tell me how to make the pedals on a steel guitar easier to play. I am talking about pedals that are somewhat hard to push down. Can they be made to be less tension. If so how would you go about doing it.

Thanks
Joseph

Daniel McKee · From: Corinth Mississippi

What brand of guitar do you have? Some older instruments that have a pull release changer have a stiffer pedal feel than an All Pull

Herb Steiner · From: Briarcliff TX 78669, pop. 2,064

There are more than several reasons why the pedals of a steel guitar may feel stiff, among them being the lack of lubrication/maintenance, the general condition of the guitar, the setup of the leverages, and the number of pulls the changer is being asked to perform. Show the guitar to an experienced steel player, one well versed in the mechanical aspects of the instrument, to come to a solution of the problem.
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My rig: Infinity and Telonics.

Son, we live in a world with walls, and those walls have to be guarded by men with steel guitars. Who's gonna do it? You? You, Lt. Weinberg?

Lane Gray · From: Topeka, KS

There are at least two steel makers in Arizona, Chuck Back of Desert Rose and Fred Justice. They'll both be able to give it a tuneup
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2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects

Peter Freiberger · From: California, USA

Frank Carter, builder of the Infinitys, is in Yuma. He knows a little bit about steel guitars.

Bobby D. Jones · From: West Virginia, USA

It mechanically all sorts down to leverages. 1.Pedal length, 2.Distance from pedal pivot pin to pedal rod connection fitting, 3.To the pedal lever length attached to the cross rod, 4.Then to the bell crank its length from cross rod the bell crank pull rod connection is attached, 5.To which hole in the Changer finger lever the rod is attached, 6.Length of scissors to the changer, 7.Distance of the radius from center of changer shaft to actual contact of the string on the changer finger. This is the leverages pushing a pedal travels to actually lowering or raising a string on a steel guitar. The shorter these pulls are the harder they pull, But is takes a lot of force to engage. If these levers pulls are lengthened it does take less force to accomplish the pull but the pedal will have to travel more distance to accomplish the pull. Then friction and lubrication comes into the picture. The way a guitar is designed can make it easier on pedals and levers by there design and set up.

Most steels can be lubricated and leverages changed to pedal a little easier, But at the price of longer pedal travel. This is just another reality of dealing with a steel guitar we must accept or work on it.

Lane Gray · From: Topeka, KS

True, Bobby.
But he didn't say what kind of guitar or how old.
I once bought an MSA that was properly set up, but had spent so much time in smoky bars that it was nearly unplayable. Smoke film had gunged up every place that it could be gunged up. Had to clean every part on the guitar and now it plays beautifully.
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2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects

Greg Cutshaw · From: Corry, PA, USA

I've had two brand new guitars in the last ten years that played very stiff right out of the box. A complete lube job freed them up. This included using Tri-FLo lubricant and making sure you don't miss any friction points and that you tip the guitar as needed to allow the light oil to carry the teflon into needed areas. After lubricating my new MSA Legend only once with Tri-Flo it stayed smooth for many years until I sold it.

http://www.gregcutshaw.com/Lubricate/Lubricate.html

I have a few pedals on my guitars set up to act quickly and they do require a lot of pressure to activate due to the leverages I used but properly lubricated there is smooth travel. If you work them slowly you don't feel any grinding or roughness transmitted through the linkage.

What everyone else says is so true. Some guitars are so gunked over due to age or improper lube that they have to be dis-assembled, cleaned then lubed. In rare cases I have seen where return springs are misadjusted or raise assist springs are not applied where needed or linkages are binding. For example a knee lever that lowers three springs doesn't need all three of the return springs set at full pressure.

Take your guitar to any experienced steel tech or veteran player for some adjustments and advice!

Lane Gray · From: Topeka, KS

Greg, you don't lube the Delrin bushings, do you?
I've been told that oil (or other organic liquids) can make them swell. I just clean them.
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2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects

Greg Cutshaw · From: Corry, PA, USA

We do a lot of machining here. The Delrin bushings are available with and without impregnated Teflon. One of the plastic (Delrin???) bushing on my Williams, the heaviest loaded one on P3 that raises 3 strings was chirping and I could feel the drag and hear it at one end. A shot of PTFE and it's as free as can be. I have no idea about the swelling but haven't seen it yet.

My guys agree with this post:

http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/general/lubricant-delrin-222966/

Slippery DelrinÂ® Acetal Resin Rods, "These rods contain 13% PTFE for a more slippery, wear-resistant surface than standard DelrinÂ® acetal resin rods. Also known as DelrinÂ® acetal resin AF, this material is moisture resistant and is commonly fabricated into pump components, gears, and bearings":

https://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/123/3654/=16ftk82

From Dupont (also see DelrinÂ® acetal "homopolymer"):

http://www.dupont.com/products-and-services/plastics-polymers-resins/thermoplastics/brands/delrin-acetal-resin.html

According to this: http://www.dupont.com/content/dam/dupont/products-and-services/plastics-polymers-and-resins/thermoplastics/documents/General%20Design%20Principles/General%20Design%20Principles%20for%20Bearings.pdf

Lubrication
The main reason for using bearings of DELRINÂ® acetal
resin and / or ZYTELÂ® nylon resin is to achieve good wear
performance under completely dry running conditions
(for instance in the food industry), or with initial lubrication
(speed reducer bearings of all kinds in closed housings,
like appliances).
Continuously lubricated bearings are rarely encountered
in the products where plastics are used and are not discussed
here.
"Initial lubrication should always be provided". It not only
facilitates the run-in period but increases total service life.
Unless special steps are taken to retain the lubricant, it
will have a limited effectiveness in time, after which the
bearing must be considered as dry running. Consequently,
an initially lubricated bearing where the lubricant cannot
be retained cannot sustain a higher load but it will last
longer and show better wear behaviour. Initial lubrication
is particularly helpful in running against soft metals.

Ron Pruter · From: Arizona, USA

Good stuff, Greg. I have read that Tri-flo doesn't expand Delron. RP
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Emmons SKH Le Grande, '73 Fender P/J bass, Tick tack bass, Regal high strung, USA Nashville 112.

Damir Besic · From: Nashville,TN.

after I get done cleaning my .357 Dan Wesson I spray little bit of my Remington oil on the changer, and it works like a charm Very Happy

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www.steelguitarsonline.com

Joseph Torres · From: Arizona, USA

I want to thank all with the impute that I received in regards to stiff pedals on a steel guitar. You all, have been very informative. I will see if lubricating it will take care of the problem, if not then I will consult a seasoned player or steel builder.

Thanks
Joseph

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