Carter Dog Bone alternative

Ron Hogan · From: Nashville, TN, usa

I know that the Carter dog bone has come up often. I've been thinking of an alternative and so far it's worked on mine. Take a look and give me your thoughts.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/1826662064274553/

Dan Robinson · From: Colorado, USA

Thanks, Ron. I didn't even know there wss a Carter group on FB. There is room for a new idea. Whenever the "Carter achilles heel" topic comes up here folks get stymied. I'm a new Carter player, no issues yet, but trying to be ready before it causes trouble.

I like the simplicity of your design. The end of the rod attaches to the outside of the "comb," so not sure how it will work when several rods on the same string run through the center of multiple bell cranks.

Love to hear more.

Lee Baucum · From: McAllen, Texas (Extreme South) The Final Frontier

Perhaps you could post a picture here for those of us who don't do Facebook.

Michael Remming · From: Kimberly, Idaho, USA (deceased)

See this link for other ideas http://bb.steelguitarforum.com/viewtopic.php?p=2594712#2594712

Dan Robinson · From: Colorado, USA

Ron Hogan new idea from FB:
https://www.facebook.com/groups/1826662064274553/

Bob Knetzger's "roll yer own new dog-bone" and Michael Remming's picture of parts Brian Henry has/had at one time. Both old (left) and new (right) are shown.
http://bb.steelguitarforum.com/viewtopic.php?p=2594712#2594712

The barrel with hex-socket screw would be called a round, fully-threaded standoff, with a hole drilled through the center at 90Â°. Requires cutting the hook or loop from the rod. It isn't needed to capture the dog-bone since the standoff locks it with the set screw. This does allow adjusting effective length of the rod.

After cutting the hook off, is the rod long enough to use with the standoff? Results vary. I like this method.

Michael Remming · From: Kimberly, Idaho, USA (deceased)

Dan, I had plenty of rod left to attach the barrel (standoff). You do have to pay attention and cut the hook off as close to the bend as you can. I used a good pair of dykes (diagonal cutting players) and it helps to pull the rod completely out for filing and checking the fit.

Richard Sinkler · From: aka: Rusty Strings -- Missoula, Montana

I tried cutting the bend off, but I prefer to just make a new rod. All it takes is to cut the rod (I used dull linemans pliers) and thread it. I leave a little more rod beyond the barrel to allow better adjustment of slack.
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Carter D10 8p/8k, Dekley S10 3p/4k C6 setup,Regal RD40 Dobro, Recording King Professional Dobro, NV400, NV112,Ibanez Gio guitar, Epiphone SG Special (open D slide guitar) . Playing for 54 years and still counting.

Michael Yahl · From: Troy, Texas!

I've got the 3/32" rods in stock and already threaded.

http://psgparts.com/Pull-Rod-Set-Cut-to-Fit-093-w-3-48-Thread-RODSET-C2F-THRD-093-348.htm

If there's enough demand for them, I will order the standoffs and drill them just like I have for the MSA's, Dekley's, and a few others. What is the frequency of these needing replacement? Would it be better for me to just make the dogbones? I have a CNC lathe that can knock those out no problem. Just need to know if there's enough market for these items to program, tool, and set up.

Would you guys be interested or would you rather piecemeal this stuff.
_________________
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'72 Sho-Bud Professional D10, (in pieces .....), '78 MSA Classic XL D10, '69 Emmons PP, Fender 2000
Peavey Session 500 BW, Crate Digital Modeling Amp

PSG PARTS
http://www.psgparts.com/

Storm Rosson · From: Silver City, NM. USA

Micheal, should you decide to make some of these "dogbones", I have seen quite a few posts regarding the failure of these parts. Any way before I drifted off I was thinking the stock ones are made of brass I think, and that seems to be their weakness. I was thinkin if they were offered in SS it would be a "must have" upgrade/repair. IMHO...Stormy

Dan Robinson · From: Colorado, USA

Richard Sinkler · From: aka: Rusty Strings -- Missoula, Montana

Bob Knetzger · From: Kirkland, WA USA

3/8" brass rod drilled to accept a 3/16" steel drill rod. Slide into crank, add pull rod. Done.

Ron Hogan · From: Nashville, TN, usa

More Dog Bone experimenting-Success!

Steelers,
I did some more experimenting with the issue of the Carter Dog Bone that allows attachment of the pull rod to the pull finger/bell crank. I found something so simple and available at your local ACE hardware store as a substitute for the dog bone. Follow along with the pictures.

When the dog bone is placed in the pull finger it will not fallout forward, but can fallout sideways from the finger. I found that I could take a 3/16â€ diameter rivet aluminum or steel and it will slide perfectly into the pull finger â€œcombâ€ without falling out, like the dog bone, perfect fit. You can see in the picture that I cut off the long part (nail) of the rivet with a dremel tool.

I then took a hair pin cotter and slipped it over the convenient groove in the rivet (like it was made for that, LOL). Then as usual, slip your pull rod over and between the pull rod and around the rivet body and then slip the rod through your changer finger.

Ron Hogan · From: Nashville, TN, usa

You can also reverse the rivet to make room for another finger next to it.

Ron Hogan · From: Nashville, TN, usa

I want to say I just didn't post this for anyone who may have a broken Dog Bone linkage.

Being that I bought a used Carter, I wanted extra linkage parts to add changes to mr setup. 8&8 guitar. Currently I have two knees that I haven't populated yet. I have the bell cranks and now I've come up with. Dog bone alternative.

Michael Remming · From: Kimberly, Idaho, USA (deceased)

Michael Yahl I will sent you a sample barrel for you to inspect and measure.

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