Changing a Universal to extended E9th ?

Christopher Hillman · From: Manchester, UK

Hey All,

I've got to a point where I've been playing steel for around 8 years, starting out on a 10 string E9th (Emmons set up), moving to a Universal after about the first 7 months of playing.

I was always quite fond of that original set up and keep thinking should i change my U-12 into an Extended E9th (its an Excel so i'm guessing i could use one of their clutches on B6th) so i can have the E & F lever on the left knee and keep the volume pedal leg free.

Has anybody else done this? I figured this might make it easier to borrow steels but, mainly when i play a steel with this set up, i think it feels more organic. What do you all think?

Chris

Lane Gray · From: Topeka, KS

Many universal players have the E lowers on LKR.
So while converting to E9th is, of course, feasible, it's not essential.
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2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects

Ian Rae · From: Redditch, England

Hi Chris. I likewise swapped to uni early on. It's a question of whether you miss that 9th string D. I don't, but then I hadn't been playing long enough to get attached to it and it's more important to me to be able to play B6 stuff with uninterrupted grips.

As with so many questions on this forum, it depends what music you play.
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Homebuilt keyless U12 7x5, Excel keyless U12 8x8, Williams keyless U12 7x8, Telonics rack and 15" cabs

mike nolan · From: Forest Hills, NY USA

I play uni with Es on the left leg. There are advantages if you work the uni from the E9 side primarily. There are disadvantages if you work from the B6 side. I do consider it one big tuning... so that is a different outlook. I spent a lot of time playing S-10 guitars, and learned to "fake" the C6 stuff via lowering the E strings or playing in A6 with the A&B pedals. I do have a lock lever on my guitars, in case I'm actually spending an entire song in the B6 mode.... which happens very rarely.
Look at factory copedents of Uni guitars, and you will see that there are two schools of thought. Originally guitars like the Sierra came with Es on the left leg and featured a lock lever. Guitars from places like Carter, usually went with the Newman style E lowers on the RKL and no lock lever.

Ian Rae · From: Redditch, England

To me it is blindingly obvious that the E lowers need to be on RKR to give maximum freedom of movement of the left leg.

I understand how LKR and RKL are two traditional positions which folks are well used to and reluctant to abandon. My first guitar (the D10) had no E lever so I tried putting one in different places and settled on - guess what - RKL! as seeming the most natural. But when I built my uni I went for RKR and have not regretted it. It has a dual function. If I lean on it gently it lowers the Es and I can hold them down for long periods with no effort; press it all the way and it lowers string 8 to D, an essential change on B6 and a useful one on E9. It certainly earns its keep.
_________________
Make sleeping dogs tell the truth!
Homebuilt keyless U12 7x5, Excel keyless U12 8x8, Williams keyless U12 7x8, Telonics rack and 15" cabs

mike nolan · From: Forest Hills, NY USA

Ian,

I agree with your placement preference.... but I have had E lowers on LKR for close to 40 years, and I ain't changing now. Very Happy

Jerry Overstreet · From: Louisville Ky

I don't see any advantage to converting the uni to ext. E9 unless one considers the 9th string D a requirement.
I guess you could lose some weight and clutter if you removed the B6 pedals and changes.

Your guitar though and I'd say whatever you do to it, it's your business. Configure it so it best suits your style and comfort.

I'm like mike. I've always had the E's on the left and a lok. The center most pedals were accessible on my Sierras in that configuration and with the E's lowered LKR, even without the lok, you gain quite a bit of reach toward the middle with it engaged. Quite an innovative design on LKR having a swivel function to move it out of the way with the lok engaged so LKL2 [if used] can be actuated in B6 without obstruction too. The Sierra system is my favorite of the ones that I have played.

Tom Gorr · From: Three Hills, Alberta

Hi Ian... do you have a feel stop of any kind once the E- is hit and want to continue to lower down to D? Probably asked you this before.

I have often thought about doing that and thought raising s4 E- back to E like P6 might accomplish a feel stop. One better may be to have a second lever to continue the drop with.

Ian Rae · From: Redditch, England

Jim Reynolds · From: Franklin, Pa 16323

Just my two cents on the E knee lever. I have had my knee levers, on the many guitars I've owned, on both sides. The one that lowers the E's. I prefer having it on the RKL, but can play either way. I have only changed it on two, of the guitars. I have owned about 12 in my life. At my age now, I probably won't have anymore. The ones I have now, two have the LKR, my U-12 has the RKL. I like it the best, mostly will leave them as they are. The StageOne is fixed, but I think it can be changed with a few parts from Doug, and a little work. My Mullen I will most likely leave the way it is, so I can change from one to the other, without much thinking. hahaha.
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Zum U-12, Carter SDU-12, Zum Encore, Emmons S-10, Emmons D-10, Nashville 400, Two Peavey Nashville 112, Boss Katana 100, Ibanez DD700, Almost every Lesson Jeff Newman sold. Washburn Special Edition Guitar, Can never have enough, even at 80. 1963 Original Hofner Bass bought in Germany 1963, and a 1973 Framus Bass also bought in Germany 1974.

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