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Topic: Nashville 400 reverb |
Dale Foreman
From:
Crowley Louisiana, USA
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Posted 4 Dec 2016 11:53 am |
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I recently sent my Nashville 400 to get upgraded and when I first put it back together, it worked fine but now it has stopped working. I can cut the reverb knob to zero and it goes off but when I turn it on, it goes crazy and acts more like a repeater. I'm thinking of sending it back but wondering if I should just replace the tank which would be much cheaper than shipping and labor. I've tried to comtact Ron Brown to no avail?? Will the Mod tank part no. 9EB2C1B work in the 400?
Thanks
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Rittenberry Prestige(2) |
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Jerry Overstreet
From:
Louisville Ky
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Jack Stoner
From:
Kansas City, MO
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Posted 4 Dec 2016 12:41 pm
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| "Reseat" (unplug then plug back in) the reverb Molex connector. May not be the problem but worth doing as bad/no contact in that connector can cause many problems. |
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Dale Foreman
From:
Crowley Louisiana, USA
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Posted 4 Dec 2016 1:18 pm
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| Jack Stoner wrote: |
| "Reseat" (unplug then plug back in) the reverb Molex connector. May not be the problem but worth doing as bad/no contact in that connector can cause many problems. |
I've done that.
Thanks Jack!
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Rittenberry Prestige(2) |
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Keith Hilton
From:
248 Laurel Road Ozark, Missouri 65721
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Posted 4 Dec 2016 5:47 pm
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| Dale, the two plugs connecting the reverb, to the circuit are polarized. Normally there is red paint on one plug, and jack. Make sure you plug the red into red. Sometimes the red is real faded on these old amps. |
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Jerry Overstreet
From:
Louisville Ky
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Posted 4 Dec 2016 6:52 pm
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9EB2C1B is the correct MOD tank for your NV400 if you determine that's the problem. I put one of these in mine about a year ago and I like it better than the Accutronics tank that I removed.
There's also a Ken Fox diagram for just the reverb tank and molex connector wiring here in this section if you do a search.
Hopefully, Mike Brown or Ken Fox will respond to your post here. Good luck. |
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Dale Foreman
From:
Crowley Louisiana, USA
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Posted 5 Dec 2016 7:30 am
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| Jerry Overstreet wrote: |
9EB2C1B is the correct MOD tank for your NV400 if you determine that's the problem. I put one of these in mine about a year ago and I like it better than the Accutronics tank that I removed.
There's also a Ken Fox diagram for just the reverb tank and molex connector wiring here in this section if you do a search.
Hopefully, Mike Brown or Ken Fox will respond to your post here. Good luck. |
Yeah Jerry, I'm hoping they read this and respond.
Thanks
Dale
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Rittenberry Prestige(2) |
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Ken Fox
From:
Nashville GA USA
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Posted 5 Dec 2016 10:29 am
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Make sure the female Molex pins at the plug that goes to the chassis are tight. You can carefully re-tension them and often helps. A loose ground on the tank input side will cause a lot of grief.
I have seen a similar problem and it was caused by a bit too much torture during shipping to the reverb tank during shipment.
Pull the tank out and make sure the pan/spring assembly is floating freely on the 4 suspension springs. I have seen the pan get stuck on top of one of the two metal post and it will squeal like a pig,
Other than that try another tank??
Last edited by Ken Fox on 5 Dec 2016 10:33 am; edited 1 time in total |
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Ken Fox
From:
Nashville GA USA
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Posted 5 Dec 2016 10:31 am
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Dale Foreman
From:
Crowley Louisiana, USA
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Posted 26 Jan 2017 11:45 am Nashville 400 reverb pan
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I finally got around to trouble shooting the NV 400 and have determined it is the tank. I pulled the reverb tank from my Vegas 400 and installed in the NV 400 and works great so now it's time to order the mod tank. Thanks to everyone for your help!
Dale
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Rittenberry Prestige(2) |
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Steven Paris
From:
Los Angeles
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Posted 28 Jan 2017 6:24 pm
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While you're at it: (tip o' the Hatlo Hat to Mr. Ken Fox)
Here is the ‘Metzger’ mod that brightens the reverb of the Peavey Nashville 400 amp and gives it a more Fender-like reverb sound, a long needed improvement. It also gives the reverb more drive, like a Fender reverb, so you don't have to advance your reverb control so much.
1)Change input cap (C36) from .015uf to .01uf
2)Solder a 33 ohm/1 watt resistor in series with a 3.3uf non-polarized cap. Put this assembly across (in parallel with) R57 (33 ohms). You may want to 'fix' these parts with a silicon compound so they don't move.
3)Change blocking cap (C40) from .22uf to.1uf
4)Change resistor R61 from 1.5K to 1.2K
5)Change cap C39 from .47uf/50 volt electrolytic to .33uf/50 volt mylar
6)Change resistor R60 from 22K to 33K
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Emmons & Peavey |
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