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Topic: Sho Bud changer fingers |
Peter Johannisse
From:
Spijkenisse, The Netherlands
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Posted 27 Oct 2016 1:31 pm |
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| Hi Storm, the superfingers were made by John Coop |
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Storm Rosson
From:
Silver City, NM. USA
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Posted 27 Oct 2016 3:39 pm
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| I forgot that Coop made the first ones ,James is making some now ,I don't know if they are a copy of Coop's but the pics James sent me a year or so ago, before he got really sick, were awesome looking parts as usual from James ...or Coop for that matter.I only hope I can approximate the skill and precision of either of the two produced by a couple of master crafters in my book...Stormy |
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Lane Gray
From:
Topeka, KS
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Posted 28 Oct 2016 8:23 am
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Unfortunately, James joined Coop.
_________________
2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects |
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Storm Rosson
From:
Silver City, NM. USA
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Posted 28 Oct 2016 8:51 am
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 F**k ,I had not known that til now. Very depressing James was a good man I'll miss him alot...Stormy  |
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Lane Gray
From:
Topeka, KS
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Posted 28 Oct 2016 9:00 am
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I know. I think I learned about James the same day I learned about Craig "Lil Izzy" Baker.
_________________
2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects |
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Rob Clot
From:
Petaluma, California USA
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Posted 29 Oct 2016 9:15 pm
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I've finished my prototype. Im sure there will be some who think that this will weaken the finger, but I disagree. Thats a 0-80 X 1/8 SS screw. the finger had a .042'' hole drilled in it and tapped. (No bits or taps broken, just took my time) I also epoxied the .025" chrome molly piece on, but I wanted the added insurance of a mechanical fixture.
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Bob Muller
From:
Oregon, USA
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Posted 29 Oct 2016 11:01 pm
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| Looks like a great fix, Hope it plays the same, this could be the solution. |
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Loren Morehouse
From:
Meadowlands, MN USA
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Posted 30 Oct 2016 10:45 am
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| Rob I have done that for years. All I do is epoxy it to the finger and it has worked flawlessly! One thing I do is to file the chrome off so you hit the zinc, clean it good then use new epoxy or epoxy you know is not that old. It will work great! Loren. |
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Ian Worley
From:
Sacramento, CA
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Posted 30 Oct 2016 11:09 am
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Nice. If your fix did weaken the finger it would only affect the raise helper spring so not a big deal. Having just the one screw on that end is probably a good call for that reason.
The extra thickness might affect the geometry slightly, but if this came into play it would only be on the smaller strings with whole tone lowers (usually only string 2). People sometimes cut the raise helper nub off on string 2 this reason anyway, to allow enough travel for the full lower to C# |
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Storm Rosson
From:
Silver City, NM. USA
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Posted 30 Oct 2016 11:10 am
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Excellent job Rob. I'm thinking you could work out a similar fix for the top of the fulcrums, for the strings to rest on....Stormy  |
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Rob Clot
From:
Petaluma, California USA
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Posted 30 Oct 2016 9:24 pm
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I filed the chrome off to make sure I had a clean surface. Also wanted to make sure they were flat as the original fingers were not all the same due to being 'pot metal'. The thickness at that point also varied from finger to finger, so I don't believe the added .025" will matter, (fingers crossed). My guitar does not have the raise helper spring, thats why i didn't see a problem with this idea. Do all these guitars have those, or is it just an added feature?
As far as the fulcrum point where the strings rest on, that might be a bit more tricky, cause you would have to get the radius bend just right. Not saying it couldn't be done. Just a lot to ask for with my limited resources.
I'm working on putting the guitar back together now and hope to have it finished tomorrow. I'll let you know.
Cheers |
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Ken Byng
From:
Southampton, England
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Posted 31 Oct 2016 1:04 am
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| Ian Worley wrote: |
Nice. If your fix did weaken the finger it would only affect the raise helper spring so not a big deal. Having just the one screw on that end is probably a good call for that reason.
.................People sometimes cut the raise helper nub off on string 2 this reason anyway, to allow enough travel for the full lower to C# |
I cut that nub off after having the 2nd string start to raise when it got to a certain point just before it reached the C# note. Cured the problem immediately. I found that string raise quite frustrating before.
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Show Pro D10 - amber (8+6), MSA D10 Legend XL Signature - redburst (9+6), Sho-Bud Pro 111 Custom (8+6), Emmons black Push-Pull D10 (8+5), Zum D10 (8x8), Hudson pedal resonator. Telonics TCA-500, Webb 614-E, |
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Scott Davis
From:
Muncie,Indiana, USA
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Posted 5 May 2024 8:11 am Sho-Bud changer finger issues
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Hello, my name is Scott Davis from Muncie, IN. I have a 1979 Sho-Bud Super Pro that is having a problem with the 10th string changer finger on the C6th neck not allowing the 0.068" Low C string to seat in the groove in the rear of the finger-is there a remedy for this?
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1979 Sho-Bud Super Pro(bought from Bobbe Seymour's Steel Guitar Nashville) with Lay's SIT strings, Peavey Nashville 112 amp, Goodrich volume pedal, Dunlop bar & National picks |
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John Hyland
From:
South Australia
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Posted 5 May 2024 1:32 pm
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| It’s a bit hard to tell but it looks like the groove jaws are Broken. That would mean a new finger or some grinding, drilling and adding pin for the hole of the string end to hook onto. |
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Ian Worley
From:
Sacramento, CA
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Posted 6 May 2024 9:57 am
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As John said, the hook ends of the string ball slot are broken off. The string slots in the original castings are only about 1/16" wide, I assume they were cut on a mill before plating. The slot for string ten needed to be widened a bit to accommodate the thicker string including its extra end windings. I don't how they did that originally back in the '70s, if they just cut a few with a wider slot before plating, or did it later with a file or a Dremel or something, but the finger is just cast zinc under the chrome plating, so what little material was left on either side after widening the slot wasn't very substantial or strong, hence the eventual breakage you experienced.
You'll either need to re-shape the ball hook deeper into the material that remains using a Dremel or similar, or just replace the finger. With a new finger you'll still need to widen the slot to accommodate the .068. You could also drill a 1/16" pin into the area below the hook (and below the rivet) but the angle would need to be very acute relative to that recessed area of the finger below the hook to keep the ball from slipping off.
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All lies and jest, still a man hears what he wants to hear and disregards the rest - Paul Simon |
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