Why do my pedals have half-stops?

Dave Stroud · From: Texas

My A pedal is smooth throughout, raising both strings.

My B pedal has a half stop, raising the 3rd string about 80% before the stop, and the last 20% after the stop. The 6th string is completely raised within the second half.
My C pedal is the same.

How can I get rid of those stops? Thanks!!

Lane Gray · From: Topeka, KS

I'm willing to bet that the half stop you feel is the slower moving string catching the faster string.
On the B pedal, if the 3rd string is moving the whole time and catching the 6th, and you have a plain 6th, switch to a wound, and the 6th will slow down. If you have a wound 6th and it's traveling the whole time (and catching the 3rd string makes the half-stop), switch to a plain 6th.
You'll want to monkey with the leverages so that they both pull together.
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Georg Sørtun · From: Mandal, Agder, Norway

Sounds like the string-pulls are out of sync ... changed type/gauge of strings lately?

The 3d and the 6th string should ideally start raising at exactly the same point, and be fully raised at the same point. If they don't the pull-trains will have to be modiified to make them raise in sync - shorter pull for 6th string than for 3d, and/or the 6th string may have to be changed into a wounded string that naturally will be more "slow" to raise and therefore more in sync with the 3d string.

Pull-train is easiest modified by attaching the pull-rod for 6th string to a hole/notch closer to the bellcrank-axle. Trial and error mostly till you get an acceptable balance between strings on same pedal.

Lane Gray · From: Topeka, KS

If you're worried about messing it up, before you move stuff around, we can offer some suggestions if you provide the following information:
1) tell us something like "on the B pedal, the 6th string starts moving, and then there's a hitch as it starts pulling the 3rd string."
2) pictures of the bellcranks and cross-shafts looking along the shafts and looking a bit down on them (so we can see the bellcrank and the unused holes).
This ain't going to be hard.
You could also buy the new Mickey Adams video.
_________________
2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects

Mickey Adams · From: Bandera Texas

How a halfstop is created.
Lowers utilize a return spring for tension
Raises simply use the tension increase to pull themselves back down.
Every "GROUP" of pulls has 1 string which will require longer travel than others, therefore, in an idle position, the closest bellcrank to Zero slack is the "Pedal stop Candidate"..Strings with less travel needs will have their respective hex nuts sitting farther from the activation point, or changer contact..this is ZERO SLACK..
When the secondary string reaches ZERO slack, its function will address either the string tension, or the SPRING tension...Either of these will create an INCREASED resistance load to the levers remaining travel to the stop....This is a half stop. Moving the secondary strings rod placement in the bellcrank will change the contact point and therefore WHERE the primary string will encounter it in its raise...Make any sense???
My video will explain it all in detail...email at jetdrivr@me.com, or simply send 84.00 to this address... Smile

As for the "Slower vs faster pulls....Its probably a good idea for us to adopt a common terminology with regards to
travel ratios. "Faster pull, slower pull" etc.These can be confusing to just about every beginner, just as the term copedent, or "D" Lever was, and in some cases still is...
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Dave Stroud · From: Texas

Thanks all for the relplies. The culprit ended up being from messing with positioning of the rods in the bell cranks from back when I wanted to shorten and firm up the pedal action a bit. Earlier this morning I tried different things with the positioning of the pull rods at the changer. That made things worse.

I then downloaded a sierra manual online, and set it all up to their factory specs with the positioning of the pull rods at the changer and the bell cranks. Bingo.

I had to adjust it slightly because their set up didn't accomodate for a LKV. But it all works smoothly now. I like the method used in the Sierra manual for identifying a given position for a pull rod (ex. A2 = top hole of the changer, 2nd slot on the bell crank). Is this a common way of putting it for all builders?

Lane Gray · From: Topeka, KS

Similar, but not identical. Glad you got it sorted.
_________________
2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects

Tony Prior · From: Charlotte NC

correct, it's not a half stop.

For those who are still scratching their heads and don't understand.

The A Pedal and the B pedal pull two strings, one thinner, one thicker. If the pulls are not properly set up at the changer and at the bell crank position, one of the strings will start to PULL the changer finger before the other . One string note starts to change, the other does not.

What is being felt is one string is actually being pulled before the other even STARTS, then when the second starts to be pulled you feel the tension.

In the early days bell cranks only had a few positions to work with so it was very difficult to "time" the pulls, today, we have bell cranks that can have up to 14 positions so timing TWO strings to pull at the same time is a reality.

A Half stop is not the same thing, it's is a hard stop adjustment specifically designed so we can get TWO notes out of ONE string in TWO positions, typically on a knee lever, not a pedal . Think 2nd string, half tone lower and full tone lower.

IF we actually WATCH the two pulls being engaged,( RE:B pedal) we can SEE why the timing is off. It's physics but not difficult.

Regarding bell crank positions, the slot closest to the guitar body is the shortest pull, the slot closest to the floor is the longest throw. In many cases just watching them work together (two strings) you can literally see whats causing the timing issue and correct it.
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