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Topic: Set Up for Dummies?!?! |
J W Alexander
From: Reynoldsburg, Ohio, USA
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Posted 15 Jan 2005 5:01 pm
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I've got a 76 Sho Bud Pro III and need to know all about the general set-up and assembly of PSG's once the case is opened. I literally have no clue as to how this is done in order to have whatever co-pedent work properly. Being new to this world I'm in the dark so now am thinking my steel has some major issues. Any sites where this is covered in OR threads here dealing specifically would be very much appreciated.
I'm thinking the next move after that is a trip to Ricky Davis's or Duane Marrs----I'm lost Fellers.............!!
Thanks
J W |
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Roy Ayres
From: Riverview, Florida, USA, R.I.P.
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Posted 15 Jan 2005 5:14 pm
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J.W.
Try the Carter Steel Guitar web site. I think you can get most of the information you need by clicking on This link
[This message was edited by Roy Ayres on 15 January 2005 at 05:16 PM.] |
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Eric West
From: Portland, Oregon, USA, R.I.P.
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Posted 15 Jan 2005 5:23 pm
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THe site Mr Ayers reccommended is the best I've seen. I was trying to think about what it was, and nothing happened.
Screw in the legs, clamp the pedal bar on the legs. If the legs need adjusted they're pretty straight forward. Usually just long enough to get the pedal bar on. Then look at the pedal rods. they should have some kind of numbers on them. Three of them will be longer than the others. They go to the E9 neck. If there is no numbering system on them, you'll have to do some guessing to switch them around a bit. The three long ones on the E9th. WHen you get them the way you want them wrap some small pieces of tape around each one going up or down to remember how you had them.
Set it up, and try it.
You tune your changes with the nylon nuts. If they won't tune high ehough then you need to adjust your stops. They're those allen head, lock nutted screws that stop the axle levers under the front apron.
Get yourself a small set of allen wrenches, find the size that fits in the fingers and the brass swivels, and check them for tightness.
Let us know what your changes are, and somebody will have ideas for them if you want them different.
If you need basic tuning charts, I think you'll find them in This Section
There are no stupid questions.
Get a tuner, and tune to what it says. Worry about other stuff way later. Like twenty years later. ( inside joke).
Good Luck.
There's three thousand gigs in every Sho~Bud ProIII. Some better than others.
EJL[This message was edited by Eric West on 15 January 2005 at 05:26 PM.] |
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J W Alexander
From: Reynoldsburg, Ohio, USA
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Posted 16 Jan 2005 4:37 am
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Okay here's where I'm really lost---how are the pedals numbered? Sitting at the guitar, ready to play, are they 1>8 from right to left or left to right?
The Carter link is something I've seen before and I appreciate it being pointed out again--it's amazingly helpful!
Thanks guys-----------and girls, too!!
J W |
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Larry Robbins
From: Fort Edward, New York
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Posted 16 Jan 2005 5:14 am
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Thats correct JW, although you will also see pedals 1,2,and 3 refered to as A,B,and C. Relax and have fun! Pro III's are cool Buds!
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Sho-Bud ProII, Pro III custom,
Fender Steelking,Hilton pedal,Tut Taylor "Virginian"
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Roy Ayres
From: Riverview, Florida, USA, R.I.P.
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Posted 16 Jan 2005 5:35 am
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When the guitar is set up and you are sitting behind it, pedal #1 (or #A) is the one to your left. The "A-B-C" terminology goes back to single neck steels where the E9 chromatic tuning was used and there were only 3 pedals. Much of the training materials you can purchase refer to them as "A" "B" and "C". Pedals 4, 5, 6, 7, and 8 are for use with the C6 neck. You should have E9 chromatic on the front neck -- which is the one that is a little higher than the other neck -- the one furtherest away from you when sitting behind the steel.
Don't be embarrassed to ask about anything you need to know. If my memory serves me right, I, too, was once a beginner and had a lot of questions.
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Visit my Web Site at RoysFootprints.com
Browse my Photo Album and be sure to sign my Guest Book. |
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Sidney Ralph Penton
From: Moberly, Missouri, USA
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Posted 16 Jan 2005 6:08 am
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jw i also just started to play the psg (april 04) i started out with a carter starter. i got a tape of jeff newman with it a beginer tape that was great. at the same time i bought a bruce boudth (spelling) tape that was fantastic. the first thing i learned about a psg is there are many ways to tune it. i also bought a book from scotty's music st louis on how to read music. then i foundout that they don't write sheet music for psg it is usually tabed out. but the book was very useful in learning. bobby seymour also has a lot of good instruction videos. also go to the worldwide steel guitar directory see if you can find someone near you that plays they might be able to give you some personal instruction. i went from a carter starter to a carter U12 didn't like that too much to understand. then to a bmi didn't like that one either and now i am with a zum. and i would say that is where i am going to stay. i was going to get a sho bud but i was told you alwyas have to work on them so i passed and ran across a deal on a zum and glad i did. and bruce is quite the man to talk to. i was honored that such a man would take the time out of his day to sit and chew some fat with me a no body. he builds great psg and knows how to play em too. good luck doc
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zum SD10 vegas 400 |
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Gary Preston
From: Columbus, Ohio, USA
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Posted 16 Jan 2005 8:35 am
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Hi, J.W. You have people right here that can help you set up your guitar so why not ask them for help . Just let any of us know and we will be glad to help you . Best regards Gary . |
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Dave Grafe
From: Hudson River Valley NY
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Posted 16 Jan 2005 11:19 am
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Quote: |
I was trying to think about what it was, and nothing happened |
I do that all the time (no matter HOW I tune the darn thing)...
JW - get Winnie Winston and Bill Keith's book, it's still the tops for what you need to know to get started and all in one book. If you can get over to Ricky's and/or Duane's then you owe it to yourself to do so post haste, if only because so many of us can't.
Most importantly, HAVE FUN - nobody else is gonna do that for you.
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Dave Grafe - email: dg@pdxaudio.com
Production
Pickin', etc.
1978 ShoBud Pro I E9, 1960 Les Paul (SG) Deluxe, 1963 Precision Bass, 1954 Gibson LGO, 1897 Washburn Hawaiian Steel Conversion
[This message was edited by Dave Grafe on 16 January 2005 at 10:45 PM.] |
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Sidney Ralph Penton
From: Moberly, Missouri, USA
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Posted 25 Jan 2005 8:42 pm
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when i am setting up i usually put in my two front legs first then put in the pedal bar then hook up the pedals. they got abc 4 5 6 or 1 2 3 4 so on. 1 goes on the right as the psg is upside down. pedal 1 would be the one on the far left as your sitting behind the psg ready to play. pedals 1 2 3 are for the E9th or forward neck and 4 5 6 7 8 is for the C6th neck or the rear neck. after i get the two front legs in and the pedal bar on i hook up the pedals then put the back two legs on then pick it up by one front leg and one rear leg oposite ends and pick it up out of the case and set it on the floor. thanks doc
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zum SD10 peavy vegas 400 peavy special 212
if its not a zum steel it isn't real
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Mark van Allen
From: Watkinsville, Ga. USA
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Posted 26 Jan 2005 9:47 am
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JW, Sidney's related the way most of us do it- just make sure the guitar is oriented properly in the case to follow his directions, in other words, upside down with the peghead end to your right. Then the pedals will hook up starting from the right side. As far as the adjustments to length of the pedal rods, that's a bit tricky until you're somewhat comfortable playing- but bear in mind that the basic position on the E9th neck is to have your left foot balanced between the A & B or first and second pedals. (If your guitar is in the more common "Emmons" setup. The "Day" setup reverses the position of the A & C pedals, but they all work the same ) The trick with either setup is that when you push down on the B pedal, you will be tilting or angling your foot so that the A pedal is not moved (you should hear no change on the strings activated by the A pedal while pressing just the B pedal). Then you should be able to tilt your foot the other way to press just the A pedal without moving the B pedal. Everyone's feet and muscles, tendons etc. are different, so this is where the adjustment comes in. You will have to lengthen/shorten the pedal rods so the pedals are close enough to the floor to operate, not so close that they bottom out on the floor when pressed, and allow the movement above, as well as comfortably pressing both A & B pedals together. Sounds complicated, but once you've got it working it will usually stay put! The same holds true on the C6 neck for pedal 5 & 6, you balance your foot between and adjust so that either can be played without activating the other, as well as both together. The heights of the other pedals aren't quite so critical, and you'll adjust them for comfort and action as you get more practice in. Before you do much adjustment, take a real careful look to make sure it's not already setup close to properly for you, with the pedal rods in the right order... I agree the Carter site and Winnie's book are the best infromation about setup around until you can get one-on-one with a teacher. Good luck!
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Stop by the Steel Store at: www.markvanallen.com
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KENNY KRUPNICK
From: Columbus, Ohio
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Posted 26 Jan 2005 9:55 am
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J.W., use the Emmons set-up. |
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