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Topic: How To Clean A E9th Changer |
Raymond White
From:
Georgia, USA
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Posted 9 Aug 2016 9:31 am |
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| what to use as a liquid cleaner and how to do it,for a thorough cleanin on the E9th changer ,MCI Guitar,D10,thanks for your help,Ray white,steelmanplayer@yahoo.com,Without Removing It From The Guitar...... |
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Tony Prior
From:
Charlotte NC
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Posted 9 Aug 2016 10:38 am
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Well Raymond, the thing is, you really can't do a thorough cleaning without removing it. You can clean it somewhat but thats not thorough. I have read where some use Lighter Fluid. Whatever you use has to cut through grease and oil.
It's not really that big of a job, they come apart easily, clean easily and go back together easily. Plus you get to inspect each finger component and insure they rotate freely.
Should you decide to do it, just write down each string/rod/changer/bell crank positions. You won't be sorry should you decide to do it.
Here's a recent Emmons changer just before cleaning .
You cannot clean the spacers or clean/burnish the axle by pouring "stuff" down thru the changer.
Many will say run some stuff through it. I'm not one of them .
In the scheme of things this is about 2 to 3 hrs of time, working very slowly .
Here it is all clean and spiffy !
_________________
Emmons L-II , Fender Telecasters, B-Benders , Eastman Mandolin ,
Pro Tools 12 on WIN 7 !
jobless- but not homeless- now retired 9 years
CURRENT MUSIC TRACKS AT > https://tprior2241.wixsite.com/website |
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Bill Ferguson
From:
Milton, FL USA
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Posted 10 Aug 2016 4:06 am
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I am with you on this one Tony.
However, many players either don't have the expertise or are afraid to tackle this job.
In fact, when I work on other peoples steels and they don't want to pay for the time to do it right, here is what I do.
I use a citrus based Orange Degreaser from Home Depot.
I put it in a spray bottle and saturate the changer. It cuts grease like crazy. Then I blow out the changer with compressed air.
I do this about 3 times and it is usually pretty darn clean.
I then take cotton swabs (a bunch of them) and work them through all the mechanism as much as I can.
Blow it out again.
Then with an oiler, I saturate the changer a couple of times with Automatic Transmission Fluid and just let it drip through. (protect the pickups).
I usually have the steel standing on the changer end on a towel.
This has worked well for me.
_________________
AUTHORIZED George L's, Goodrich, Telonics and Peavey Dealer: I have 2 steels and several amps. My current rig of choice is 1993 Emmons LeGrande w/ 108 pups (Jack Strayhorn built for me), Goodrich OMNI Volume Pedal, George L's cables, Goodrich Baby Bloomer and Peavey Nashville 112. Can't get much sweeter. |
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Tony Prior
From:
Charlotte NC
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Posted 10 Aug 2016 4:27 am
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yes Bill, thats a reasonable process. I would certainly agree that many don't want to tackle the task of taking the changer apart but at the end of the day it's really easier than trying to start the mower after being stored for the winter !
I have been asked about cleaning changers, rods,bell cranks etc, but I won't do it unless I can take it all apart.
I like what you said, "to do it right".
Nice post Bill...
_________________
Emmons L-II , Fender Telecasters, B-Benders , Eastman Mandolin ,
Pro Tools 12 on WIN 7 !
jobless- but not homeless- now retired 9 years
CURRENT MUSIC TRACKS AT > https://tprior2241.wixsite.com/website |
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DG Whitley
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Posted 10 Aug 2016 5:56 am
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I would really like to be able to feel I can do this without ruining my PSG. I am hoping this is something Mickey Adams will cover in his forthcoming maintenance video. A picture is worth a thousand words in things like this, as least for me. If I can see it done visually, I can usually do alright.
I also agree it needs to be done this way in order to "do it right". Good thread for discussion. |
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Erv Niehaus
From:
Litchfield, MN, USA
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Posted 10 Aug 2016 7:41 am
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A while back I had an Emmons with a sticky changer.
I took care of it with this:
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Ron Pruter
From:
Arizona, USA
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Posted 10 Aug 2016 2:33 pm
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Bill,
FWIW, I don't know about auto trans fluid. Ask Ben/Rom (Canadian steel builder) about that. AT fluid has stuff in it that makes it grab. He took a new steel apart after very little use and couldn't believe the wear after using ATF. There's a thread on it some where; possibly on the Builder web sight. I'll never use it. RP
_________________
Emmons SKH Le Grande, '73 Fender P/J bass, Tick tack bass, Regal high strung, USA Nashville 112. |
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Bill Ferguson
From:
Milton, FL USA
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Posted 11 Aug 2016 2:48 am
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Ron,
Automatic Transmission Fluid is what Bruce used on the Zumsteels.
So I am taking the words right out of the horses (builders) mouth.
And I would think you would want the lubricant to "grab hold" and not all run out.
_________________
AUTHORIZED George L's, Goodrich, Telonics and Peavey Dealer: I have 2 steels and several amps. My current rig of choice is 1993 Emmons LeGrande w/ 108 pups (Jack Strayhorn built for me), Goodrich OMNI Volume Pedal, George L's cables, Goodrich Baby Bloomer and Peavey Nashville 112. Can't get much sweeter. |
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Lonnie Portwood
From:
Jacksonville, fl. USA
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Posted 11 Aug 2016 6:25 am
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Bill, I read a while back that a 50/50 blend of transmission fluid and acetone was the best penetrating/cleaner ever!. It was lab tested and compared to all the major brands and exceeded their performance by a large margin. FWIW Lonnie
_________________
Music is probably the most "spiritual of mankinds emotions, and when practised with a pure heart, can lead one into the presence of God, who invented it. Lonnie Portwood |
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Mickey Adams
From:
Bandera Texas
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Posted 14 Aug 2016 8:49 am
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Break Free....WORKS FAB!....Sonic cleaner too...!
_________________
ARTIST RELATIONS: MSA GUITARS
2017 MSA LEGEND XL D10, S10, Studio Pro S12 EXE9
Mullen G2, Rittenberry S10, Infinity D10, Zumsteel 8+9
Anderson, Buscarino, Fender, Roman Guitars, Sarno Octal, Revelation Preamps, BJS BARS, Lots of Blackface Fenders! |
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Tony Prior
From:
Charlotte NC
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Posted 15 Aug 2016 12:32 am
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I don't disagree with anything above, but if we have a sticky changer or sluggish finger it may have nothing to do with oil or build-up. It may have everything to do with a burr/groove on the axle or a finger itself is in the "sticky" mode.
My own experiences with maybe 6 or more different changers taken apart over the last year or so is that each one had an axle that had burrs/grooves that needed "smoothing".
It's all good though. 
_________________
Emmons L-II , Fender Telecasters, B-Benders , Eastman Mandolin ,
Pro Tools 12 on WIN 7 !
jobless- but not homeless- now retired 9 years
CURRENT MUSIC TRACKS AT > https://tprior2241.wixsite.com/website |
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Jim Sliff
From:
Lawndale California, USA
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Posted 16 Aug 2016 10:35 pm
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Do NOT use any cleaner/lubricant - they all leave residue behind that attracts dirt, eventually gumming up the works. Don''t even apply oil either.
The only solvent safe to use on nearly every steel (and other instrument) is Naphtha - aka Ronson lighter fluid (but buying in gallons is cheaper in the long run). It will not affect finishes, Formica, plastics, rubber or anything but spray adhesives and glues...plus it washes away grease, oils, and other gunk leaving absolutely nothing behind.
Then lube with DRY Teflon lube. Not the mineral oil type - that will attract dirt like every other oil.
If you clean it thoroughly with naphtha, let it dry and use dry Teflon lube you will get zero grease/oil buildup and have to re-lube it very rarely (every few months or so. ALL oils break down, and if you use them you WILL be suffering from a sticking, greasy, dirty mechanism before long.
I used seeing machine or other light viscosity oils until about 12 years ago when Dupont allowed others to package products with Teflon (TriFlow was the best known, and initially found in bike shops). Now even DuPont sells it under their label, a Teflon lubricant with a light alcohol solvent that evaporates quickly (it's safe on guitars - but alcohol does not clean like naphtha).
I spent over 35 years in the coatings and lubricants industry and have talked to dozens of suppliers about this subject. As far as instruments and many other precision pieces of machinery are concerned they all agree with both the cleaning and lube methods (which I didn't develop - I got them from a chemist).
_________________
No chops, but great tone
1930's/40's Rickenbacher/Rickenbacker 6&8 string lap steels
1921 Weissenborn Style 2; Hilo&Schireson hollownecks
Appalachian, Regal & Dobro squarenecks
1959 Fender 400 9+2 B6;1960's Fender 800 3+3+2; 1948 Fender Dual-8 Professional |
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Dick Sexton
From:
Greenville, Ohio
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