| Author |
Topic: New to changing steel strings? |
Steve Howard
From:
High Ridge, Missouri, USA
|
Posted 14 Dec 2004 6:05 am |
|
So, change 6-string strings all the time, curious if there are any differences I need to watch out for to do it on the ten string steel setup? I assume it is as simple as it looks, but want to make sure I don't start ripping them off and then find out something I wish I knew first.
|
|
|
 |
Jeff Garden
From:
Center Sandwich, New Hampshire, USA
|
Posted 14 Dec 2004 6:56 am
|
|
| Check out Carter steel guitars Steel Guitar Information Resource website www.steelguitarinfo.com for a real detailed presentation on changing strings. Lots of other good stuff on maintenance and setups as well. |
|
|
|
Joey Ace
From:
Hamilton, Ontario, Canada
|
Posted 14 Dec 2004 7:18 am
|
|
One difference you should be aware of is the
winding at the ball end has a sharp side.
Install your string so the sharp side is away from the metal, thus won't scratch it. |
|
|
|
Bill C. Buntin
From:
Cleburne TX
|
Posted 14 Dec 2004 7:50 am
|
|
Good point Joey. I've run across several different pedal guitars that players had on stage that the strings were installed with the barb toward the changer. One guy told me he did it that way cause that little barb near the ball end, when turned out, would snag his cover thus leaving lint and fuzz on his changer.
Another tip I picked up was to make sure the string is wound onto the peg with the string as straight is it can be in relation to the string between the changer and the roller. This keeps from putting the roller in a bind when the changer is raising and lowering.
Most noticable on strings 5 and 6, on most 10 string guitars. |
|
|
|
Jim Smith
From:
Midlothian, TX, USA
|
Posted 14 Dec 2004 8:39 am
|
|
| Quote: |
| Install your string so the sharp side is away from the metal, thus won't scratch it. |
Hmm, in all my years of playing, I've never thought of that, thanks!  |
|
|
|
John Sluszny
From:
Brussels, Belgium
|
Posted 14 Dec 2004 9:16 am
|
|
| Right.Thank you Joey. |
|
|
|
Ray Rasmussen
From:
Santa Rosa, CA,
|
Posted 14 Dec 2004 9:33 am
|
|
Since the spacing of the tuners on my Williams is pretty tight, I start at the strings closest to the nut and work my way toward the end of the guitar. In other words I'll install strings 1 and 10, then 2 and 9, 3 and 8, etc...
Ray |
|
|
|
Jim Smith
From:
Midlothian, TX, USA
|
Posted 14 Dec 2004 9:44 am
|
|
| Ray, I do that too, and also cut them at the same time. |
|
|
|
Steve Hitsman
From:
Waterloo, IL
|
Posted 14 Dec 2004 4:01 pm
|
|
| So, what is it Steve? Like 11 more days 'til you actually get to mess with your steel? |
|
|
|
Tracy Sheehan
From:
Fort Worth, Texas, USA
|
Posted 14 Dec 2004 8:42 pm
|
|
I have been playing steel for 45 years or so and no one ever told me that.You mean the strings should be changed every decade or so?  |
|
|
|
Ron Whitworth
From:
Yuma,Ariz.USA Yeah they say it's a DRY heat !!
|
Posted 15 Dec 2004 2:15 am
|
|
Another thing i would suggest also:
Check your rollers up by the keyhead end & make sure they are free & rolling easy- you might even want to put a drop of oil on them too..Ron |
|
|
|
Howard Tate
From:
Leesville, Louisiana, USA, R.I.P.
|
Posted 15 Dec 2004 8:58 am
|
|
I've noticed that too many wraps around the key post will change the ratio when you turn the key, making it harder to be precise, especially with the larger strings. Just my opinion.
------------------
Howard, 'Les Paul Recording, Zum S12U, Vegas 400, Boss ME-5, Boss DM-3
http://www.Charmedmusic.com
|
|
|
|
